'03 Yukon XL 1500 New battery = No Crank

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DonYukon

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Hi all...I have an '03 Yukon XL 1500.

Sometime last week, the alarm went off and I could not shut it off. In the past, I have accidentally hit the horn alarm icon on the key fob, but pressing the button again, always shut it off, but not this time. After a few minutes, it just stopped. I had also noticed the key fob was intermittently not opening the doors and had to insert the key into the lock. I also noticed a little drag on the starter when turning on the ignition, but all these random incidents seemed to clear up...until yesterday. I put a new battery in the key fob, just to be safe. When I jumped in the Yukon and put the keys into the ignition, turned the key, as if to start the engine, nothing happened. No dash lights were on either. The battery was over 5 years old, and only had about 11 volts when I used the meter on it, so I pulled out the old one and bought a new one. Same specs, except instead of 800 CCA, this one was 700 CCA. I'm in AZ, so it's not cold.

The old battery was disconnected overnight. Once I installed the new one the following afternoon, I turned the key in the ignition, all the dash lights, et.al lit up, but when turning the key to the final forward position, intending for the starter to work, nothing happened. I have read and tried all the "quick fixes" and so far, none of them have worked. So I left the new battery connected and called it a night. The next morning, the battery was drained down to 8.3 volts! I don't recall leaving any interior lights on and no dash lights were on over night. I have no idea what caused this? So I was able to return the new battery for another new one. So now after hours of trying to troubleshoot again, I noticed the Daytime Running Lights were now staying on, after trying to fix this, so I pulled out it's fuse from the fuse block to preserve the charge in the new battery, rather than mess with the electric system by leaving it disconnected for another extended period of time.

Then, I bought an OBD reader, thinking with this, I could at least see what's up, but after numerous attempts to retrieve error code data, the reader failed to download any potential error codes, each time resulting in "ERROR". (Yes, the key in the ignition was in the "on" position and dash lights, et. al turned on.) The app for the phone connected with the reader via Bluetooth, but there was nothing for it to download and present to me.

Anyone have any idea what's happening here and how to fix it?

UPDATE: after walking outside, to check things, because I left the new battery connected, all lights, except headlights, were on, even dash lights were on. I had no choice but to once again, disconnect the battery.
 
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Fless

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What "quick fixes" were tried?

The main power cables might be compromised, either internally or at one of the connections; they tend to rot from the inside out. My suggestion would be to fully charge the battery, then perform a voltage drop test on both the positive and negative cables.

 

OR VietVet

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Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

What @Fless said and I also want to know what code reader you got. If you got a real inexpensive one that just reads Powertrain codes, that explains some things. Does the code reading read Live data, body codes, brake codes and is it bi-directional.

I recently had, on my 2005 Tahoe, a problem of having radio on and key out and open door to get out and radio was intermittently staying on till I closed the door and opened again or reinserted the key and either wiggled it or cycled thru a KOEO scenario once or twice. I was thinking the door lock actuator, which is the driver's door latch but it turned out to be a failing ignition switch. It is easy to swap out and if you have never done it, watch a couple you tubes and you will get the hang of it. I am to the point now, that I can change it out in about 20 minutes. My girl's Trailblazer and a friend's 2005 Tahoe, were my practice fix vehicles.
 
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DonYukon

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What "quick fixes" were tried?

The main power cables might be compromised, either internally or at one of the connections; they tend to rot from the inside out. My suggestion would be to fully charge the battery, then perform a voltage drop test on both the positive and negative cables.

Fixes like put key in ignition, turn to on (not ignition position), hold for a few seconds, then back to off...and repeat a few times. This one actually clears obd codes...sometimes. I learned that simply removing black cable from negative battery terminal does the same, reliably. Then there's the one where you put key into driver's side door lock, unlock and return back to insertion position, and repeat. Then I checked all fuses and all were fine. I'll inspect the cables for damage, thanks for the suggestion(s). I think I'm also going to try and hookup new battery directly to starter, to see if it engages, but...not 100% sure how to safely do this without doing any damage. Any suggestions re. that?
 
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DonYukon

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Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

What @Fless said and I also want to know what code reader you got. If you got a real inexpensive one that just reads Powertrain codes, that explains some things. Does the code reading read Live data, body codes, brake codes and is it bi-directional.

I recently had, on my 2005 Tahoe, a problem of having radio on and key out and open door to get out and radio was intermittently staying on till I closed the door and opened again or reinserted the key and either wiggled it or cycled thru a KOEO scenario once or twice. I was thinking the door lock actuator, which is the driver's door latch but it turned out to be a failing ignition switch. It is easy to swap out and if you have never done it, watch a couple you tubes and you will get the hang of it. I am to the point now, that I can change it out in about 20 minutes. My girl's Trailblazer and a friend's 2005 Tahoe, were my practice fix vehicles.
Thanks for your reply. Here's the code reader: https://www.northerntool.com/produc...3p.ds&gad_source=7&gad_campaignid=23037247649

I got the impression that the Yukon's obd was not able to send any data to the code reader, regardless of make & model, because of the jacked-up electrical that's currently affecting it. Is there a way to test the ignition? I will lookup KOEO, because I have no idea what that stands for.
 

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@DonYukon you should grab a multi meter and start checking grounds (and power) starting at the battery and expand from there
also disconnect those battery cables and wire brush them.
the problem could very well be just a poor ground somewhere.
 

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Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

I can guarantee you that your code reader is not a quality bi-directional scanner ($45), and as such, you can see only a fraction of the potential trouble codes generated by your truck's systems. Further, you cannot run test procedures that are available on your truck's systems, as they can only be triggered by a quality bi-directional scanner.

If not, I recommend that you get yourself a quality bi-directional scanner to add to your tool box. Then, you will be able to read ALL trouble codes, along with a brief explanation/pointer to the source of your issue. You can test many of the truck's electronic functions with the scanner, in order to determine the source of an issue. You will also be able to reset/delete trouble codes, after taking corrective action. You will literally save thousands of dollars in diagnostic and repair costs over the life of your truck, and you will most likely recoup the cost of the scanner within 1 year.
 
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DonYukon

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

I can guarantee you that your code reader is not a quality bi-directional scanner ($45), and as such, you can see only a fraction of the potential trouble codes generated by your truck's systems. Further, you cannot run test procedures that are available on your truck's systems, as they can only be triggered by a quality bi-directional scanner.

If not, I recommend that you get yourself a quality bi-directional scanner to add to your tool box. Then, you will be able to read ALL trouble codes, along with a brief explanation/pointer to the source of your issue. You can test many of the truck's electronic functions with the scanner, in order to determine the source of an issue. You will also be able to reset/delete trouble codes, after taking corrective action. You will literally save thousands of dollars in diagnostic and repair costs over the life of your truck, and you will most likely recoup the cost of the scanner within 1 year.
Can you suggest a quality scanner?
 

OR VietVet

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Joseph Garcia

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Can you suggest a quality scanner?
For your year truck, GM used the Tech 2 as their standard scanner at all locations. The electrical systems technologies changed around 2011, and the Tech 2 became obsolete going forward with newer year trucks, but it would still be an excellent choice for your year truck. You can find them still round, either as GM original scanners or Chinese knockoffs (which work just as well). Try eBay or similar selling web sites for a potential purchase, and you should expect to pay around $250 - $400 for one. Just make sure that the last GM software update was applied (33.004).

The Autel scanner line is popular here on this Forum for newer model trucks, but it is also backwards compatible to work with your truck year. The Autel scanner allows you to use it on several different makes of vehicles, which can be an advantage for households with more than one make/model/year of vehicle. You can purchase it in many places for around $500 to get you a scanner with the bi-directional capabilities that you need. (I purchased mine on Amazon when they ran their Prime week special and knocked $100 off the retail price).

There is a potential downside with this make of scanner in that they require a subscription to update their scanner software with any known changes in the vehicle world for which the scanner can be used, and it costs about $300 per year. But, in your case, there are no forthcoming updates from GM for your truck model year, so you could purchase the Autel scanner, but not have to purchase a subscription to update your scanner's software annually.
 
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DonYukon

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UPDATE: I learned how to "jump" the relay for the starter, between slots 30 & 87, to determine if it worked. It did. I did the same for the fuel pump relay and it worked. Unfortunately for me, after running fuel pump for a few seconds, then going back to relay for starter and jumping it, it did not get any gas and did not start. At lease at this juncture, I can eliminate the fuel pump and the starter from the list! I still find it odd, that when re-connecting the battery, after turning the key in the ignition, to the "on" position (not all the way to attempt to start the yukon, because it will not), to run the bridge tests, and all other pervious re-connections...after a minute or so, the daytime running lights automatically turn on and stay on until I disconnect the battery. They even stay on after keys are removed from ignition. These lights are never on during the day, or any other time of day.
 

Fless

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Have you ever looked in a store window with the SUV pointed toward it, with the engine running (or key ON) and the transmission in any gear other than Park? Normal operation is the DRLs should be on. I use store windows like that to occasionally check my lighting.

When you jumped the fuel pump relay you should have had fuel pressure at the rail.
 
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DonYukon

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Have you ever looked in a store window with the SUV pointed toward it, with the engine running (or key ON) and the transmission in any gear other than Park? Normal operation is the DRLs should be on. I use store windows like that to occasionally check my lighting.

When you jumped the fuel pump relay you should have had fuel pressure at the rail.
Interesting re. the DRL's, because even after removing the key from the ignition, they remained on for quite sometime, until I finally disconnected the battery, which by the time I disconnected it, the 2 day old battery had run down to 11 volts. There is something else drawing from it in a significant way. I will have to try and allow fuel pump to run longer in the morning to see if that makes any difference. Regardless, I tested the relay for the pump and the starter and they both fell within the range they were supposed to. Next up is determining how to test the ignition itself. Re. ignition, when I turn the key to the start position, nothing happens, but I do hear a faint clicking noise coming from the passenger area of the dash, seemingly underneath it.
 

Fless

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Regardless, I tested the relay for the pump and the starter and they both fell within the range they were supposed to.
What do you mean by the above comment? When a relay is bypassed, it either works or doesn't; not really a range.

It seems that you have several issues going on. I would suggest that the relay activation (control) circuit, ground and positive, be tested to determine if those are being sent by the ECM. Plenty of good YouTubes on that, but if you need a reference, look at South Main Auto's channel.

EDIT: the video below isn't the same as yours but does show some diagnostics for relay control. You can view wiring diagrams on www.charm.li.
For example (but verify your specific vehicle):




If the battery is being drawn down, then you'll need to be looking for a parasitic draw.

One other thing is to pull the ECM and remove the connectors, checking for cleanliness and pin fitment. Connector gaskets are known to leak water.
 
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DonYukon

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re. testing relays:
. I didn't have a 9 volt battery, so I used the ohm setting on my tester.
 
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DonYukon

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What do you mean by the above comment? When a relay is bypassed, it either works or doesn't; not really a range.

It seems that you have several issues going on. I would suggest that the relay activation (control) circuit, ground and positive, be tested to determine if those are being sent by the ECM. Plenty of good YouTubes on that, but if you need a reference, look at South Main Auto's channel.

EDIT: the video below isn't the same as yours but does show some diagnostics for relay control. You can view wiring diagrams on www.charm.li.
For example (but verify your specific vehicle):




If the battery is being drawn down, then you'll need to be looking for a parasitic draw.

One other thing is to pull the ECM and remove the connectors, checking for cleanliness and pin fitment. Connector gaskets are known to leak water.
This morning I am going to attempt to pursue the Passlock system, which has displayed symptoms from the beginning. If this is effed up, the main symptom presented to me, no crank from ignition, could be the path to a solution. Yeah, since changing the 5 year old battery on monday and leaving it disconnected, due to some sort of parasitic draw that drains it rather quickly, I do indeed have multiple issues. If some sort of ray of sunshine doesn't happen soon, I'm going to have to cave and have it towed to our local chevy dealer or find a well-referred mobile guy. This is my main daily driver. I also am going to pursue why this OBD will not send data to my code reader, then to my phone. It is not the best, but it's new and works just fine on my RV (2015 E450 foundation).
 

Fless

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Passlock won't inhibit cranking, but shuts off fuel flow. From the 2003 Yukon XL manual:

1763581630769.png
 

Doubeleive

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I would suspect ground or power issues to the bcm, the starter has it's own power direct from the the battery
you could also check the ecm/pcm, fuse box for any corrosion, water intrusion, rust, etc
the passlock is probably not the problem, but could be affected by the same issue as the bcm/ecm
your reported problems stem from the bcm which is in turn affected by low power/ground.
for instance the bcm is what controls the lights, not the passlock system.
 

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