Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[randeez]

dorman dash piece is in
wheel speed sensor is completely out (will prob swap hub tomorrow)
made up transfercase switch pig tail... i need to just verify which wires were the switch and there was no room to do it on top of the transfer case installed, that will make actuator engage "automatically" when 4hi/4lo is selected and 4wd will be completely done i think?

 

[randeez]

dorman dash piece is in
wheel speed sensor is completely out (will prob swap hub tomorrow)
made up transfercase switch pig tail... i need to just verify which wires were the switch and there was no room to do it on top of the transfer case installed, that will make actuator engage "automatically" when 4hi/4lo is selected and 4wd will be completely done i think?

welp... i wasnt totally convinced that the hub was the problem because of it being intermittent.
grabbed hub, before i tore the whole thing down i just unplugged the one thats installed and plugged new one in, fired up the scanner, spun the hub a little - nothing. messed with it, key on, engine on, in park, in drive, etcetcetc. couldnt get this pos to read anything.
went over to driverside (which had been working) just to see if there was a certain way i needed to have it set up for it to read that i had been doing wrong. so i unplug it, plug in new hub - couldnt get shit out of it. so at the time i just assumed it had to be running and moving for whatever ******* reason to read, like it got trans vss input before they came alive i dont fuggin know.
so i go ahead with swapping the entire hub out, get done go for a drive, now both pos front speed sensors arent reading
it was like 10:30pm by the time i got it all back together so i was done fcking with it. looks like wiring just go straight from speed sensor to the abs module, no outside power, no ground....so im just going to follow the wiring back and make sure its in tact but outside of that ??? bad abs module??

 

[randeez]

going to get the transfercase to actuator wired up and park this garbage to the side. prob order a new abs module i guess.

 

[89Suburban]

After what I went through yesterday trying to install my drop spindles I’m ready to drive mine off a fkg cliff.

 

[pwtr02ss]

going to get the transfercase to actuator wired up and park this garbage to the side. prob order a new abs module i guess.

I take it there are no wires damaged? Off that the one went out after you plugged in the new hub. I hate problems like that.

 

[pwtr02ss]

After what I went through yesterday trying to install my drop spindles I’m ready to drive mine off a fkg cliff.

What's up?

 

[89Suburban]

What's up?

Ill fill ya in later got, to get back into it.

 

[randeez]

I take it there are no wires damaged? Off that the one went out after you plugged in the new hub. I hate problems like that.

not really, they were a little crusty on passenger side over strut tower, cleaned it all up - ordered some new hi temp loom so i get it all on and taped up and routed as far as i could from exhaust. driverside same thing, right over strut tower was crusty as hell, old loom ate up...so i split it all out, looked over all the wiring, cleaned up what i could, new hi temp loom.


soooo... i let it sit over night. first thing i did was key on, red all the codes, clear all the codes. set up scantool to read wheel speed sensors, start up and go for a drive.
all the goddamn sensors work fine today.
starts doing some other shady shit, trans shifting weird, blind spot moniitors check message. wtf. call my buddy up and see if he has any ideas. says leaving scantool hooked up to read live data messes with crap. so i pulled over did one more code read(had faults on all kinds of crap ecm,tcm, loss of comm. between modules) and delete all. ripped it outta the odb port and kept driving. nothing came back on. not too sure. may drive to work tomorrow and see how it do

 

[PG01]

 

[pwtr02ss]

not really, they were a little crusty on passenger side over strut tower, cleaned it all up - ordered some new hi temp loom so i get it all on and taped up and routed as far as i could from exhaust. driverside same thing, right over strut tower was crusty as hell, old loom ate up...so i split it all out, looked over all the wiring, cleaned up what i could, new hi temp loom.


soooo... i let it sit over night. first thing i did was key on, red all the codes, clear all the codes. set up scantool to read wheel speed sensors, start up and go for a drive.
all the goddamn sensors work fine today.
starts doing some other shady shit, trans shifting weird, blind spot moniitors check message. wtf. call my buddy up and see if he has any ideas. says leaving scantool hooked up to read live data messes with crap. so i pulled over did one more code read(had faults on all kinds of crap ecm,tcm, loss of comm. between modules) and delete all. ripped it outta the odb port and kept driving. nothing came back on. not too sure. may drive to work tomorrow and see how it do

Hopefully that was the problem and she's fixed. If not, maybe some grounding issue or something

 

[randeez]

Hopefully that was the problem and she's fixed. If not, maybe some grounding issue or something

yea need to put some miles on it...sick of messing with it atm

 

[pwtr02ss]

yea need to put some miles on it...sick of messing with it atm

 

[randeez]

Drove to office, ****** i95 stuck in bumper to bumper for an hour...everyone around me definitely loved the choppin the whole time.

No speed sensor faults so that's awesome. I think the front axle disconnect was engaged or didn't unengage- kinda noisy a couple times slow rolling. I undid the wiring to actuator after I got to work so it shouldn't be able to work anyway...got another 100miles or so of driving to do for the day. I put some male/female connectors on it incase I wanted to bypass the transfercase and engage it manually...or disconnect all together

No other codes or weird shit going on...think it may have been the from scantool pulled in and reading.

Dorman dash piece "working" like it's sposed to, old one would bounce and make a racket going down the levee roads...this one nice n quiet no noise nice and tight

 

[pwtr02ss]

Drove to office, ****** i95 stuck in bumper to bumper for an hour...everyone around me definitely loved the choppin the whole time.

No speed sensor faults so that's awesome. I think the front axle disconnect was engaged or didn't unengage- kinda noisy a couple times slow rolling. I undid the wiring to actuator after I got to work so it shouldn't be able to work anyway...got another 100miles or so of driving to do for the day. I put some male/female connectors on it incase I wanted to bypass the transfercase and engage it manually...or disconnect all together

No other codes or weird shit going on...think it may have been the from scantool pulled in and reading.

Dorman dash piece "working" like it's sposed to, old one would bounce and make a racket going down the levee roads...this one nice n quiet no noise nice and tight

Awesome!

 

[randeez]

welp...it was fuggin hot today, saw 94-98 on the dash all day.
truck heated up a little bit but its almost 100% because of the ac being on after cruising for 30min+ at like 75-80mph temps starts to get a little past half. going under like 65mph it seem to be fine, needle doesnt go past 210 mark on the dash
threw hptuners on it. let it go and it would get up to like 225ect so not real horrible but more than i like. cut the ac off and within a few minutes its back down to to 210 or less. ac high side pressure was like 270psi but thats where every r134 chart seems to say is right at 95° ambient
also while messing with stuff under over the weekend i looked around for oil leaks and everything looked good
need to add some airflow to tune on hot start, having to key it for a while and pedal it to start, sucks
and forgot i ordered some wiper blades for it, put those on when i got home
verified the transfercase to front axle actuator is working, key on you can hear it moves in and out when selecting between 4hi and 4lo...so connected it back together
and i need to do brakes, pads getting low, it stops like a mofo...but kinda want to upgrade to the 4pots or 6pots and rotors... just because

 

[randeez]

alright...havent really driven it much but finally got back into it. chasing down reason why it was heating up cruising. running a few "tests" ie replicating scenarios. it seems like when the ac pressure gets high is when ect starts to climb (275psi+) and when cruising over 80mph. so got it up to temp, set out doing some cruising. pressure could show that all day long if i way in stop and go or doing under like 50mph and temps would be fine. but cruising 80mph+ for a while, ac on, temp climb... im pretty sure it would end up equalizing about 225-230 but thats way too high for prolonged cruise than id like. if i just turn ac off temp pretty much instantly drops and within a few minutes is back down to 200*, turn ac back on psi comes up pretty quick, and temp start climbing again. so 100% ac on problem.

this is florida street truck running no ac is not really an option.

i evacuated a little bit of refrigerant to try and only let it max out at like 250ish or so and i think it helped some, but the highside psi still wants to climb up, even when the evaporator seems to not be cooling very well. im wondering if the variable orifice tube i used is just behind the curve of where i want it to flow to keep psi up which ends up being a restriction.

the stock gm orifice tube for the front appears to be a .72 from what ive googled, but its a different shape so i cant use that one- the tube opening basically as large as they get for automotive purposes. im using a universal orifice tube holder so i ordered a standard .72 orifice tube to swap in and see if that will keep the pressure down.
the variable tube , in theory, is supposed to allow the perfect amount of refrigerant thru at all pressures and temps and airflows across the evaporator so my thinking was it would help being that most of the system is not oem. but perhaps the core for these trucks is just huge compared to everything else so variable doesnt work so well.

ordered some gm wavy rotors for front/rear just replacing with stock sizes, as much as i wanted to upgrade, with the hydroboost it does stop really whell- after messing with wheel hub, noticed pads were getting pretty low. rotors have been the same for a few years i think ive swapped new pads onto them a time or two, still stop smooth but figured i would replace all and not worry about it for a couple years.

 

[randeez]

orifice tube came, swapped it out, system is currently vac'd down... i need to grab some more r134a to charge it back up so will leave it vac'd till then.
tube kinda sorta fit the holder, i used an oring off of the old orifice tube and then moved the one it came with to where it fit tight and stuffed it in there...should work.

drained the catch cans and pulled filters off them to clean. like straight oil comes out of my catchcans wasnt much tho

seemed like vac was letting go after letting sit for an hour or so...there was a little bit of debris in the line when i first took it apart but tore it all back apart, brake cleaned all of it, replaced all the orings and put some blue nylog sealer crap on threads and orings...vac'd it back down will check in the morning

also grabbed the lisle tool 39190 to remove heater hoses, somewhere along the way i replaced the hoses with ones that didnt have little tabs or anything so no other way to get them off , worked pretty easily

 

[randeez]

ac still not "good" but its sorta usable.

same problem though, cruising with sustained higher rpm - compressor pushing psi up, through condenser, lots of heat, warms ECT up. I think theres just a lot of heat from the intercooler brick being transferred. like even today 95° outside, my intake temp is >68°...which is nice but really not necessary 95% of the time cruising. so i will probably throw a different intercooler pump on that i can ramp down and just maintain like 80-85 intake temps and see if the system as a whole can sustain that without pushing ECTs up. which may be fine if there isnt as much volume moving it at one time, the coolant in the reserve tank may end up being much colder as itll have more time in the chiller

 

[randeez]

laziness paid off this time boys.
so i wanted to put the variable speed pump in to slow down coolant to the intercooler, went back n forth about moving the pump up front where i had smaller reservoir (3 gallons or so).
but i had left the tank and the pump in the back, i stole the power from the rear ac for it so it was still there, and i had ran and left wiring to the dash for the pwm controller. i had to make up a few new hoses but i had everything i needed here so i got those done and installed. i need to pull the dash apart and see how i left the wiring but shouldnt take more than a few mins to get it set back up. and i need a couple more gallons antifreeze cause this setup hold about 10 gallons total and i had what the smaller reservoir and hoses had prob 3.5gal and another 2 i had from before, enough to run and circulate but need to top off.
really cleaned up engine bay getting rid of underhood tank and shit too.

i think im going to order some motion raceworks valve covers too...seems the stockers with welded bungs are leaking a little bit in a few places and enough that you can smell it burning off the exhaust manifolds. the motion covers also have a better baffle for catch cans too

and my damn passenger door handle broke, just pulls out now so have to pull the door card off and see wtf thats about. wasnt hard to to pull or anything. not sure if the rods or cable is stuck or something

 

[randeez]

Handle broke, can't get gm for a week or two...so against my better judgement going to try the dorman

pump and rear reservoir are back online, need couple more gallons of coolant though, probably enough in there to test but was messing with other stuff.

still waiting on brake pads friend has a little parts side business so i order parts through him every once and a while, he'll usually match whatever price i can find online...but either way mostly just supporting.... shipping is taking forever on these pads tho. rotors been here a week that i ordered thru rockauto