Creaking /Popping Noise

[Rocketman23]

Hey guys. I have a problem that is literally driving me insane!

2004 Yukon SLT
204,000 miles

A couple months ago I started having a clunking/banging sound coming from under the driver’s side dash (steering column area). So, did the research and found the intermediate steering shaft was the culprit. I changed the intermediate steering shaft with the improved Dorman one and changed out the plastic steering shaft bearing. Now, that is all great and it fixed the clunking/banging problem.

So, when I come to complete stop, let off the brake, hit the accelerator and as the weight of the truck transfers towards the rear, I am hearing a creaking, groaning, slight popping sound coming from under the driver’s side dash area. Typically, When I leave in the mornings, the first couple stops, it is not too bad but after a couple red lights, it is creaking and popping full strength. I have looked under the dash and found nothing out of place or loose. I am sure this was happening all along but due to how loud the intermediate steering shaft problem was, this new (to me) noise was drowned out.

Am I chasing another actual steering column related issue OR am I chasing a drivers side upper/lower control arm bushing issue or related?

Has anyone had any experience with this before?

Thanks

 

[Big Mama]

Welcome to the forum from Virginia. Do you hear this when going over bumps or potholes? Go ahead and Jack up that side and wiggle left right and up down on the tires and have a look underneath. Try a pry bar to move the steering and suspension parts around. Hopefully it shows itself easily.

 

[OR VietVet]

Are you sure the noise is inside, under the dash, or is it outside under the front driver or under the driver? Possible anything in the steering and suspension can do this. Did you have the steering gear loose for the shaft?

 

[ScottyBoy]

Sounds more like control arm bushings to be honest.

 

[OR VietVet]

Sounds more like control arm bushings to be honest.

Especially if in a salt roads state. That pop from those arms/bushings can sound like it is right under the dash.

 

[ScottyBoy]

Especially if in a salt roads state. That pop from those arms/bushings can sound like it is right under the dash.

Exactly. That's why I suggested it. The sounds from clunking front suspension components will resonate through the floor board area and it almost seems like it's coming from the firewall area or under dash area.
Definitely put that truck on a lift or jackstands and inspect all the front suspension bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc. Shake the wheel and tire really hard side to side and up and down. Grab the tire at 3 o' clock and 9 o' clock positions, and wiggle it side to side really good then do the same up and down grabbing the tire at 12 and 6. If you have a helper, that's even better. Have a helper shake while you closely inspect all the bushings and ball joints for slack/movement.

 

[OR VietVet]

Best to shake and pry everything with the suspension loaded. Lift next to the lower ball joint until the tire is off the ground 1-2 inches. Then you can pry with a bar under the tire and do all the shakes you want. Also, have it on the ground and have a helper, with engine running, move steering wheel from 9 to 3 and watch for in and out play at the ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm and slop/play at the control arm bushings and sway bar and check to make sure the steering gear is tight to frame and no frame cracks. Recheck that steering shaft too. Not a fan of Dorman products.

 

[wjburken]

Might check the CV axle while you’re at it.

 

[mwilson62000]

I had a similar noise for the past several months When hard braking and letting off the brake. Lower ball joint replaced and also the cv axle boot had a rip so replaced cv axle. Noise gone!

 

[ScottyBoy]

Best to shake and pry everything with the suspension loaded. Lift next to the lower ball joint until the tire is off the ground 1-2 inches. Then you can pry with a bar under the tire and do all the shakes you want. Also, have it on the ground and have a helper, with engine running, move steering wheel from 9 to 3 and watch for in and out play at the ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm and slop/play at the control arm bushings and sway bar and check to make sure the steering gear is tight to frame and no frame cracks. Recheck that steering shaft too. Not a fan of Dorman products.

Good call on the steering shaft too. I had the same issue with repeated failures. Back when I first got my truck I had the steering shaft "re-greased", as back then (in 2006) that was the GM protocol for getting rid of the steering shaft clunk. The clunk returned in less than a year. I had the grease re-packed again and the clunk returned in barely 6 months. Around this time, GM released the new "updated" steering shaft that was serviceable. The updated protocol was now to replace the steering shaft with the new updated part. My truck was still under warranty at this time so the dealer replaced it. A little over a year after that, the "new" shaft started clunking. By this time my truck was out of warranty, so I was on the hook for this repair. I ended up buying a new AC Delco steering shaft from the dealership and installed it myself. This was back in around 2008 or so, and the steering shaft clunk has NEVER returned, even after 14-15 years and over 100k miles later. Let's see Dorman parts hold up like that!

 

[Rocketman23]

Welcome to the forum from Virginia. Do you hear this when going over bumps or potholes? Go ahead and Jack up that side and wiggle left right and up down on the tires and have a look underneath. Try a pry bar to move the steering and suspension parts around. Hopefully it shows itself easily.

No, not really anything while driving, only from a start. Sounds like as the truck's weight transfers, something is creaking under the drivers side dash. I have replaced both the intermediate steering shaft and the plastic bearing for it.

 

[Rocketman23]

I'm thinkin this is the brand new Dorman intermediate shaft again.

 

[Rocketman23]

Does anyone know why a brand new intermediate steering shaft and new bearing would be creaking? It is the flexing between the body and frame causing the creaking sound.

 

[mrutah12]

Good day all,
I have a 2004 Tahoe ls 4wd 5.3
Last night after I finished installing my idler arm assembly. The wife backed out of the driveway, Turned wheels too the left and she started pulling forward and there was a loud pop that sounded like it came out from under the car. It made this popping /girding noise a few more times. Saw it was in Auto 4wd had the wife put in 2wd . Still made the noise.not sure what it is. Ive owned this truck for 3years and never had a problem Until last night. Going to go and check transfer case and both differentials. For any type of slop. Also going to check to see if it is actually coming out of 4wd. Any suggestions or Advice is greatly Appreciated.Sorry i did not proof read my post. The noise was there before I heard it the wife said

 

[nick0789]

Does anyone know why a brand new intermediate steering shaft and new bearing would be creaking? It is the flexing between the body and frame causing the creaking sound.

What type of creaking? Is it like a door hinge creak (dull creak) or like when plastic rubs (higher pitched)? Not to question your mechanical ability at all, but was the bearing pushed fully into the column? And did you ensure that the steering wheel did not turn during the job?
I just did the steering bearing and steering shaft replacement on my tahoe earlier this month and getting that bearing on wasn't the easiest thing to do so it was just a thought.

Otherwise, check everything else underneath the vehicle including the easily missed / skipped over components: control arm bushings, torsion bar bracket bushings, differential mount bushings, body mounts, etc.

 

[OR VietVet]

Good day all,
I have a 2004 Tahoe ls 4wd 5.3
Last night after I finished installing my idler arm assembly. The wife backed out of the driveway, Turned wheels too the left and she started pulling forward and there was a loud pop that sounded like it came out from under the car. It made this popping /griding noise a few more times. Saw it was in Auto 4wd had the wife put in 2wd . Still made the noise.not sure what it is. Ive owned this truck for 3years and never had a problem Until last night. Going to go and check transfer case and both differentials. For any type of slop. Also going to check to see if it is actually coming out of 4wd. Any suggestions or Advice is greatly Apperciated.

You said you just installed an idler arm. First "obvious" place to check is the idler arm work you "just" did. You need to make sure all is tight where you retensioned all bolts and nuts. Make sure all is seated correctly. What brand idler arm did you use. Please tell me it was not a Dorman product and that you did not just install the arm instead of the arm and bracket..

 

[mrutah12]

You said you just installed an idler arm. First "obvious" place to check is the idler arm work you "just" did. You need to make sure all is tight where you retensioned all bolts and nuts. Make sure all is seated correctly. What brand idler arm did you use. Please tell me it was not a Dorman product and that you did not just install the arm instead of the arm and bracket..

Nope moog arm and bracket and all torqued to specs

 

[OR VietVet]

Nope moog arm and bracket and all torqued to specs

Ok, but address the point I was making. Not just tightened correctly and torqued correctly, the pop was not there till you did the work, right? That is what you alluded to in your problem description. Did you lube everything under there, not just the new part and in fact, did you lube the new part?

 

[mrutah12]

Ok, but address the point I was making. Not just tightened correctly and torqued correctly, the pop was not there till you did the work, right? That is what you alluded to in your problem description. Did you lube everything under there, not just the new part and in fact, did you lube the new part?

okay so I found my noise I pulled the rear diff cover and my spider gears were shot they had teeth missing and I thank you for your help much appreciated. know to find out what diff it has its a 10 bolt . posi with 3.73 if i read the rpo code right. i believe it said GT4 and next to that says g65 hope i did it right

 

[OR VietVet]

You must have had that noise before the idler arm replacement, to find what you described. the GT4 is the RPO code for the 3.73 gear but G80 would be the limited slip diff. The G65 is not one I am familiar. The G66 and G67 have to do with auto and manual leveling.