What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
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iamdub
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Sorry @iamdub, I got distracted starting on the Civic suspension work I’ve been putting off. I was pleased to have the trailing arm bushing taken care of, did the upper, and compensator arms, and then got hungup on one of the lower arm bolts.. it’s welded itself onto the bushing, so I’ve quit for the night, and will be headed to the Honda dealership in the am for some new bolts, so I can cut through, and replace them. I’ll get the throttle body outside diameter measured ASAP.
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She's mounted, only the top brackets are bolted in.
I have to drill new holes on the outside brackets 1.5" higher and get two nuts to throw in there. Also need to make a 1.5" spacer and grab two longer bolts for the inside then all 6 mounting points are good to go.
New black led foglights on the way.
I have to drill new holes on the outside brackets 1.5" higher and get two nuts to throw in there. Also need to make a 1.5" spacer and grab two longer bolts for the inside then all 6 mounting points are good to go.
New black led foglights on the way.
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iamdub
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Lawd. That suspension slop would irritate the hell outta me. You're gonna love zipping through turns when you get it all finished.
You gonna fix up a D16Z? I know you said a K swap isn't in the cards at the moment. What about a B16? B20? Ooh! How 'bout a B18B LS/VTEC Frankenstein?
Yeah, it was making me cringe every time I drove it.pretty much every bushing under there was near the same condition. And now that I’m in there, I definitely want to do some coilovers. Should have just bought those as well..
It’s on the table.. thing is all the things I’d need to swap over. I have exactly zero parts right now, so need to determine everything I’d need for different swaps and prices. K-swap would be the ultimate, but all the adapting is pricey. The guys who make that stuff know what they’ve got! All good ideas… I was looking at the Frankenstein years ago… IIRC, the LS block would bolt in fairly easily, and the VTEC head bolts right up.. of course, ANY of this will require either a 100% standalone ECU, like Fueltech, or a piggyback, like Hondata.. and I’ve been completely unable to locate a Hondata. Wondering if the EPA has successfully shut them down already.
I have a guy I asked about an engine, and I believe the pic he took is a D16Z6.. other than tuning, I’m confident that would bolt right up.. I don’t know Jack about that swap though, other than the rev-limit and redline go from 7200 / 6800, to 7400 / 7200, with a slightly lower compression ratio: 9.6:1, to 9.2:1… ripe for the turbos.. he may also have a lead on a 6.0.. really hoping for that as well.
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Scott in AZ
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Working on a 1-Channel amplifier install for the subwoofer I installed in the back box of my 2001 Yukon. I’m pretty happy with the new sound system running off the legacy OEM amp under the glove box. It runs cool and …. It’s pre-wired, right? But an honest 300W mono-block for the 8” SVC Polk Audio sub should really add some punch. I found a good location for the Crutchfield store brand amp under the cup holder and in front of the console box, screwed into the console box mounting frame so don’t have to drill the floorboard.
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iamdub
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My cousin worked for Hybrid back when the K first came out. He helped develop the swap parts and then ran a CNC machine to make 'em. As proof of concept for a one man, all-inclusive swap kit, he locked himself in the shop one Friday after close of business. When the guys opened up Monday morning, there he was with a running K-swapped hatch.
All good ideas… I was looking at the Frankenstein years ago… IIRC, the LS block would bolt in fairly easily, and the VTEC head bolts right up.. of course, ANY of this will require either a 100% standalone ECU, like Fueltech, or a piggyback, like Hondata.. and I’ve been completely unable to locate a Hondata. Wondering if the EPA has successfully shut them down already.
I don't recall ever putting much thought into the ECU side of things back when I was planning to B-swap my EJ. But I didn't think it was any more than adding an extra wire for the second VTEC solenoid and reflashing the stock ECU for the B16 maps. I'm not sure how this compares to your EK. I have an OE Del Sol A/C compressor bracket, BNIB, if you're interested.
Wow! Sounds like that was a pretty awesome swap setup, doing a one-man job like that. Pretty sweet! Yeah, I have more research to do. The engines (other than the K-series), are getting harder to find, so that may dictate what I’m able to do as well. I may indeed be able to make use of that a/c bracket.. definitely prefer to retain it.. this isn’t going to be a racecar, and it’s hot in Texas.
iamdub
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Is your car an EX? I know the D16Z6 was in the '92-'95s, which are OBD1. I think the D16 in the '96-'00 (OBDII) is pretty much the same and may just have a few minor differences in the fueling and emissions components (EVAP, MAP, etc.) that are easily resolved by swapping over your current intake manifold. Hell, you can run an OBDII car on an OBDI ECU with a $20 adapter harness. This reminds me- I have a super rare Dinan-chipped P28 ECU. I should test it and put it on ebay.
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I may be able to use that P28… if I end up with the D16Z.. yes, it’s an EX. D16Y8. Pretty decent engine. I’m not really sure if it’s much gain to go to a D16Z or not.. seems like you have a good bit of knowledge on this I may glean.. (as with many things! Lol).. would going to an OBD 1 make tuning easier? I lost most of my Honda knowledge back in the early 2000’s
Oh, and the lower control arm bolt is not available from the dealership.. so Monday before I get that. Argh.. I just ordered 6, as I don’t yet know what the other side is going to look like, and might as well replace them.
Scott in AZ
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Found a great place to ground the amp. There’s a turned up end of floorboard under the seat just forward of the inboard driver’s side rear seat mount. So I could drill thru it to the other side, and screw in a big ole’ sheet metal screw w flat washer and lock washer. Seems good purchase and secure conductivity. Then I just passed the 8 AWG wire into the console box to the amp. Once the trim piece is reinstalled, the ground strap attachment point is hidden. And I found a pair of Craftsman mini-needle nose pliers and a ‘92 heads-up penny while I was down under the seat. No telling how many years (…decades?) been there!
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iamdub
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I know it's relatively low wattage, but you might be shorting yourself (no pun intended) with that sheet metal ground. You would've been better off tapping it to the seat bracket immediately next to it. With paint removed, of course. Also, if you have any of that 8 AWG left, I'd recommend making a ground for the body to the frame, if even piggybacking off a stud on the firewall.
BTW, do you have a link for the amp you're using?
iamdub
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I've never really looked into the tuning side of these things and haven't messed with Honda on this level in a couple decades. It looks like there's not much difference in the OBDII other than some extra emissions items. I wouldn't be surprised if racers reverted to OBDI as an easy way to kill these emissions items. No idea which would be easier for tuning or maybe even better for operation. I'd suspect the newer stuff might be faster (processing, not ground speed) and maybe would have more tuning options.
The Z6 and Y8 have their pros and cons, but they aren't really far from each other. I'd say having both at your disposal is beneficial since you could take the best from each and make a "super" single-cammer jammer. Something like the Y8 manifold, the Z6 head and maybe even the block, etc. You'd have to have the car off the road until it's built versus building a 1.6 at your leisure then swapping it in. But if the only Y8 component you use is the manifold, then this wouldn't be a problem since it's a quick swap.
Research it and lemme know and we'll figure it out. A project thread would be great!
Scott in AZ
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I got zero.zero ohms on the ground …. But I’ll do both. I’ll run a secondary 10AWG to the frame. Good ground = good sound.
I was tempted to use the 4 X 75 watts bridgeable 2/3/4 channel version of the amp, with rear RCA cable sound to the pillars (2 X 75 watts) and subwoofer RCA cable bridged to the sub (1 X 150 watts), but I’m trying to over-design the upgrades from here on in. I was concerned 3 amplified channels might run hot on the amp. So I’m using the mono-amp rated at 290 watts into 4 Ohms. There’s a scratch and dent for $132 on Crutchfield. Otherwise $150.
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iamdub
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I'm sure it's a solid ground connection that yields zero ohms. A 30 gauge wire just touching bare metal can get zero ohms if the connection is clean. But it surely won't carry any considerable amperage.
That's a decently stout and well-equipped amp for it's size! It's comparable to the $100 Power Acoustik Razor from Walmart. But more compact.
Scott in AZ
Full Access Member
“That's a decently stout and well-equipped amp for it's size! It's comparable to the $100 Power Acoustik Razor from Walmart. But more compact.”
Turned on its side, it fits under the cup holder which is what I was looking for. Plus turning on side and mounting horizontally mitigates the huge design flaw of the fan blowing down. Mounted flat (normally) , this amp need to be mounted in spacers to allow air to flow thru it. After I get it hooked up that will hit Crutchfield at least a star on my review.
Was able to get from the amp signal out all the way to the box and thru the original grommet on one long 16 AWG wire, no connectors, crimps or splices. That should help keep things running smoothly.
The OEM amp wires to the sub are in pic below, green/black and blue/white, in case anyone wants to know. I guess I’ll leave them connected at the OEM amp under the glove box since I have them wire-nutted and now also taped off.
Now for the power. I have severe firewall grommet anxiety.
Turned on its side, it fits under the cup holder which is what I was looking for. Plus turning on side and mounting horizontally mitigates the huge design flaw of the fan blowing down. Mounted flat (normally) , this amp need to be mounted in spacers to allow air to flow thru it. After I get it hooked up that will hit Crutchfield at least a star on my review.
Was able to get from the amp signal out all the way to the box and thru the original grommet on one long 16 AWG wire, no connectors, crimps or splices. That should help keep things running smoothly.
The OEM amp wires to the sub are in pic below, green/black and blue/white, in case anyone wants to know. I guess I’ll leave them connected at the OEM amp under the glove box since I have them wire-nutted and now also taped off.
Now for the power. I have severe firewall grommet anxiety.
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