07 Yukon Denali 6.2L w/186k miles, Used Oil Analysis (UOA)

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donjetman

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Vehicle = 2007 Yukon Denali 6.2L w/186k mile all aluminum L92.
Oil = HPLoil.com 0w20.

In Dec 2022 I sent a virgin or baseline (BL) sample of this oil to OAI. See the "BL" sample.
I recently sent a used sample of the oil to OAI to do their "value" analysis. See #7 sample.
Oil has 3400 miles, 67 hrs, mostly hwy miles, averging on this oil 50+ mph and 18.4 mpg.
Full flow filter is a Fram Titanium FS10575.
Bypass filter is a Amsoil EaBP90 on it 4th run (30k miles)

I purchased this oil from HPL Superior Lubricants of Hebron, IN via HPLoil.com. It's their 0w20 "motor oil", not their "race oil".

Sample#BL = HPLoil.com 0w20 - 3400 miles
Sample#1 = M Delvac ESP 5w40 - 8100 miles
Sample#2 = M Delvac ESP 5w30 - 6200 miles
Sample#3 = M Delvac ESP 5w30 - 8600 miles
Sample#4 = Kirkland 5w30 - 10,200 miles
Sample#5 = Amsoil ASM 0w20 - 6235 miles
Sample#6 = same as #5 above - 8300 miles
Sample#7 - HLPoil.com 0w20 - 3400 miles

HPLoil.com Yukon.JPG

HPLoil 0w20.JPG
 

j91z28d1

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I'm sure there's more to it, but am I seeing it correctly that amsoil 0w20 had better viscosity after 8k and 6k than hpl at 3k?

you have a bypass filter in a gas engine? that's interesting. I've not heard of that besides diesel to get help with soot.


have you noticed upsides to running the 0w20?
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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I'm sure there's more to it, but am I seeing it correctly that amsoil 0w20 had better viscosity after 8k and 6k than hpl at 3k?

you have a bypass filter in a gas engine? that's interesting. I've not heard of that besides diesel to get help with soot.


have you noticed upsides to running the 0w20?
With my Yukon I don't know if the bypass is helping anything, But it certainly isn't hurting anything. I think of it like insurance.

I get maybe 20 more miles per tank full.
 

Dustin Jackson

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@donjetman I am trying to understand, would a bypass filter offer less oil pressure compared to a traditional oil filter? They look like they are $50 a piece
 

j91z28d1

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With my Yukon I don't know if the bypass is helping anything, But it certainly isn't hurting anything. I think of it like insurance.

I get maybe 20 more miles per tank full.


do you still have the afm active? the bit if reading I've done on afm, it seems most stuck lifters are from galling inside the lifter and getting suck disengaged. with fresh clean oil being the key to making them last it does make me wonder if a bypass install on a new truck would helped them be more reliable.

40 miles out of a full tank seems significant. I don't know what the % of increase that would be, but seems like an amount the hyper mile guys would be very happy with. did you do any mods to run it, or just straight change.

I'm guessing you do a lot of interstate trips?
 

j91z28d1

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@donjetman I am trying to understand, would a bypass filter offer less oil pressure compared to a traditional oil filter? They look like they are $50 a piece

he will have to correct me if I'm wrong about his setup, but the bypass kits I've seen installed are a secondary oil filter. it installs in a way that it takes some oil pressure, say tapped into a T at the oil pressure sender, sends that oil to a 2nd spin on oil filter, something much finer filtering than normal. say normal is 20 micron size, the bypass is 2 micron. on the level of a diesel fuel filter. to restrictive to use as a normal filter but bleeding off a small amount of oil, very finely filtering it and then dumping it back into the oil pan.

on diesel applications it is mostly used to get the soot out of the oil, which can be abrasive when it builds up in the oil. so you don't need to change oil as often. gas i think it would make his oil sample testing more consistent over long mileage runs?
 

j91z28d1

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ahh thanks. I always mess up what engines got what.

18mpg from a 6.2 non afm is above average right?
 

swathdiver

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ahh thanks. I always mess up what engines got what.

18mpg from a 6.2 non afm is above average right?
It is from an All Wheel Drive Yukon Denali that's 16 years old!

My stock 6.2 pickup gets close to that (17mpg) with KO2 tires on the highway. Sometimes it has seen 19 mpg but not for a whole tank. But it is lighter and running in 2WD so Don is doing great.
 

B-train

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18 mpg is actually quite doable. I'd say a more normal mixed driving will usually return around 15-17 mpg in my experience. However, that's not to say that numerous toad trips over the years have yielded 18-21 mpg. It's a great motor and has a sweet spot around 2k rpm where it's just happy to hang out all day.
 

j91z28d1

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18 being doable is nice.. when I was looking, I saw numbers more like those 12-15 adv use. kinda scared me away from the 6.2 as the wife's daily and she drives, I'll call it more aggressively than me haha. I was definitely looking for that one year tahoe 6.2 without all the afm stuff, just covid in the way and then I happened upon this oddball 6.0 and got. interested in it. plus by the time I was looking again and prices had doubled.

I got sucked into the whole hyper mileing, gas mileage ribbit hole probably 20 years ago now and my driving never recovered haha.

but back to oil, the result from the 0w20 amsoil makes me want to try it. but I have a long distant tow coming up in a few months. probably wait till after that if I was to do it. last time my oil Temps stayed good, but almost too good, like maybe my scanner was reporting a calculated oil temp. I'm still not sure if this has a actual sensor or not. this tow will be more NC mountains and warmer Temps too.


I saw that OP has an add on oil cooler on his as well. I could see that being nice for running thin oil?
 

Doubeleive

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fuel mileage is completely relevant to the big pedal, I get around 9.5/10 in the city and about 12-12.5 on very long highway trips
I can make it get less, hard for me to make it get more unless my license is suspended and even then it's nearly impossible.
very hard habit to break.
 

j91z28d1

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fuel mileage is completely relevant to the big pedal, I get around 9.5/10 in the city and about 12-12.5 on very long highway trips
I can make it get less, hard for me to make it get more unless my license is suspended and even then it's nearly impossible.
very hard habit to break.

funny thing once I starting doing more track stuff and riding motorcycle, my driving around town slowed way down and became gas mileage life haha. guess it took all the fun out of driving around town.
 

Doubeleive

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funny thing once I starting doing more track stuff and riding motorcycle, my driving around town slowed way down and became gas mileage life haha. guess it took all the fun out of driving around town.
ya, I could only imagine being in a indy 500 race and then driving home, it would be like slow motion I would have to have someone else drive it would make me insane.
 

j91z28d1

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to the op, I got recommended your thread on bob the oil forum, but didn't feel like registering. what component in the engine do you think the high iron came from during the over heating? it's aluminum block too?

long story but my ls3 end of a track day threw a belt, and over heated very badly. embarrassingly bad really, car went into full shut down mode and set a bunch of codes. but I was 1000miles from home, so I had to put a belt on, bleed the cooling system and drive it home on the baked oil. looking back, it was to thin to start with for a track day during a FL summer lol, 5w30 oil that was slowly dropping idle pressure after every session before that happened from 300deg Temps.

almost stopped and got an oil change on the way home but figured eh, it's going to need rebuilt anyways after that and it's got 120k of very hard miles on it. so I just drove it. sent off a oil sample when I got home and to my surprise it looked decent for what happened. iron was 32. chrome was a bit high at 9. I'm guessing ring wear from abuse?

I realize you're very knowledgeable about these oil tests, i was wondering where you thought the iron in yours would come from, as the ls3 is very similar to the L92?
 

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