Replacing wheel studs, should I do more? 08 2500 xl 4x4

[GO0BER]

Hey all,

I just got new tires from Costco and I was told they will not service them (rotate/replace) again unless I get my wheel studs replaced. That seemed weird to me, so I tried to remove the wheels myself to see why.. turns out my studs are trash and it is a HUGE pain to back off the lugs and put them back on. There is no cross threading that I can see and nothing is rounded off/over.
My question is.. while I have the hub assembly off to press those studs out and press new ones in.. Should I just replace everything? If there is no issue with the hubs/bearings should I leave them alone?
The dash reads 140k miles however through my insurance app it shows the chassis has 200+k miles (I assume engine was replaced at some point.. no way to verify. though my title does show its not box a miles)

Then last question.. assuming its worthwhile to replace the whole setup.. here on RockAuto there is a reference to front 9900lb hydraulic brakes and one that doesn't mention that from AC DELCO. What is the difference?

and I guess my 'last last' question is.. I don't see anything for the rear.. what would I be looking for there?

I should also note I plan to install new rotors and brake pads on all 4 corners.. This is a daily driver that also tows our toy hauler (roughly 8400 lbs loaded)
Other key information.. 2008 Yukon XL 2500 4x4. 6.0... as of now all stock.

 

[tungsten]

On my old truck 03 2500,I replaced front wheel bearings seams about every 100000 kms buying the cheaper ones.

Assuming the bearings and studs are better quality on the pricey ones?

 

[GO0BER]

I am guessing/hoping that is the case. This is my first time ever replacing wheel studs and/or hubs and bearings.. From what I have seen I need to pull the whole assembly off to replace the studs which is what prompted me to even think about replacing the whole assembly.. but $2 per stud x 32 studs vs a couple hundred dollars per assembly.. wasn't sure if the cost was worth it as preventative or not.
I tend to do as much as I can while I have a system down to prevent having to take that whole system down again in the future for some other issue, but the price differential is not normally this steep.

 

[tungsten]

You'll know if the bearings are worn,they make that errrr sound at speed.Jack up the truck and wiggle the tire,if theirs play then there done.
The rear I assume axles have to be removed to press them in.

This all seams odd though as Ive never heard of having to replace studs?

 

[GO0BER]

You'll know if the bearings are worn,they make that errrr sound at speed.Jack up the truck and wiggle the tire,if theirs play then there done.
The rear I assume axles have to be removed to press them in.

This all seams odd though as Ive never heard of having to replace studs?

I don't think I have any issues with bearings/hubs as I have 0 noise.. I do have some 'clunks' when going over bumps.. but I am pretty sure that is the lower control arm ball joint (I have already replaced upper and tie rods).. I just wasn't sure how many eat the cost of doing everything at once as preventative maint vs leaving things alone.. even though you have to disassemble the whole thing to get the studs out/in.
I haven't had to replace studs before either (other than when one broke).. but there is definitely something about mine that isn't right.. with 0 cross threading and nothing that looks like buggered threads, my lugs are a HUGE pain to pull off and put back on.. to the point of worrying I will seize them on the install.

 

[tungsten]

I don't think I have any issues with bearings/hubs as I have 0 noise.. I do have some 'clunks' when going over bumps.. but I am pretty sure that is the lower control arm ball joint (I have already replaced upper and tie rods).. I just wasn't sure how many eat the cost of doing everything at once as preventative maint vs leaving things alone.. even though you have to disassemble the whole thing to get the studs out/in.
I haven't had to replace studs before either (other than when one broke).. but there is definitely something about mine that isn't right.. with 0 cross threading and nothing that looks like buggered threads, my lugs are a HUGE pain to pull off and put back on.. to the point of worrying I will seize them on the install.

Assuming their stretched a little I guess?

 

[B-train]

If it's a daily driver, just put in OEM stuff and run er.......

 

[GO0BER]

That would be my guess.. after replacing some other parts (like upper control arms and such) the previous owner seemed to have just "uggah uggah' as tight as their tools would go without thinking twice about proper torque specs for anything.. assuming they followed that logic with the studs it would make sense.

 

[GO0BER]

If it's a daily driver, just put in OEM stuff and run er.......

The question still stands.. should I replace the whole wheel/hub assembly (even with OEM vs heavier duty.. I lean heavier duty due to volume of towing) or do I leave those alone for now?

 

[B-train]

My guess is you live in a salt area and either the studs were stretched or cross threaded.....maybe one led to another. Either way, new studs are a job that requires removal of the hub and bearing or axle shafts. No small job.

I'd pull the tires myself and inspect the studs. Do you see threads degraded, loss of threads at the mating surface, etc that would validate their evaluation?

If they look somewhat normal, coat the hub face and studs with antiseeze and run it.

 

[GO0BER]

My guess is you live in a salt area and either the studs were stretched or cross threaded.....maybe one led to another. Either way, new studs are a job that requires removal of the hub and bearing or axle shafts. No small job.

I'd pull the tires myself and inspect the studs. Do you see threads degraded, loss of threads at the mating surface, etc that would validate their evaluation?

If they look somewhat normal, coat the hub face and studs with antiseeze and run it.

I am in arizona.. no salt/snow to deal with here. I am assuming they were stretched by the PO or shop who just uggah uggah the crap out of them with either an air/electric impact.

I don't mind the work.. I just did head gaskets and such a few weeks ago along with a whole new cooling system.
I did pull each set off the day after getting home from Costco to see why they were claiming they wouldn't service the vehicle until new studs were put on and I definitely verified they are a PITA.. but nothing visually looked wrong.
I haven't tried anti seize.. that may be worth attempting.. I also haven't tried new lug nuts; I wasn't going to buy new lug nuts until I had new studs.

 

[Foggy]

Just my 2 cents: I'd just replace the entire hub assembly on both fronts.
It's a 2500 and you DO tow... So ... and any time past 100K they go to shit
anyway. You'll probably find that you are going to have to beat them out of the
knuckle making you wonder if they are still good.. Just order new "good" ones..
Like the timkins or similar

 

[intheburbs]

First off, I have the same truck as you - same year, same model, just Chevy instead of GMC.

I'm at 235k on the original hubs/bearings, and they're still solid. And I tow an 8600-lb trailer. I say replace the studs and call it a day.

Regarding brakes - yes, these trucks have a 9900-lb braking system. With all the highway driving I do, my brakes went to 200k. But by then, I wanted to replace everything - rotors, pads, calipers, high-pressure lines, master cylinder and power steering pump.

For the actual brake components, I got this kit :

Pardon Our Interruption

I've had them for over a year, 100% satisfied.

 

[THarber]

I'd replace hub and all since they will be off anyway. They are not that expensive in the grand scheme of things and you will be mad as heck if you damage something while pressing out studs. Buy new lug nuts while you're at it. Brakes rotors and pads are then pennies.....

 

[GO0BER]

Just my 2 cents: I'd just replace the entire hub assembly on both fronts.
It's a 2500 and you DO tow... So ... and any time past 100K they go to shit
anyway. You'll probably find that you are going to have to beat them out of the
knuckle making you wonder if they are still good.. Just order new "good" ones..
Like the timkins or similar

I have been leaning this direction for this very reason.. taking everything off for the steering (tie rods, upper control arm, etc) required a bit more manual persuasion than I expected.. and I was OK with that knowing all new stuff was going back in.

First off, I have the same truck as you - same year, same model, just Chevy instead of GMC.

I'm at 235k on the original hubs/bearings, and they're still solid. And I tow an 8600-lb trailer. I say replace the studs and call it a day.

Regarding brakes - yes, these trucks have a 9900-lb braking system. With all the highway driving I do, my brakes went to 200k. But by then, I wanted to replace everything - rotors, pads, calipers, high-pressure lines, master cylinder and power steering pump.

For the actual brake components, I got this kit :

Pardon Our Interruption

I've had them for over a year, 100% satisfied.

I love this vehicle for the sake that longevity seems entirely possible/probable with the correct maint.. I am super excited to hear how many miles you have on all of your factory equipment especially knowing you tow about as heavy as I do. I know that while my odometer reads 140k the chassis is at least 200k miles and I have no idea what (if any) maint was done.. while I have 0 issues currently outside of the studs, I wasn't sure how many more miles might be expected. Especially when considering the above point of removing the parts to get to the studs anyway; will I really want to put all that back together if I have to beat it into submission? For the sake of doing this job 1 time (hopefully anyway) I am leaning into replacing everything.
That being said.. I was looking at the summit racing link you provided; as far as I can tell that is the same kit provided by rockauto?

I'd replace hub and all since they will be off anyway. They are not that expensive in the grand scheme of things and you will be mad as heck if you damage something while pressing out studs. Buy new lug nuts while you're at it. Brakes rotors and pads are then pennies.....

Aye, I am not one who appreciates when I screw up and have only myself to blame with no back up plan lol. I am definitely leaning this way.

 

[GO0BER]

So this is where I am confused in looking at the hub assemblies (at least on Rock Auto).
One of the options is an ACDELCO that states:
ACDELCO FW392 GM Original Equipment Info
Front; 9,900 lb Hydraulic Power Brakes

and the Timken
TIMKEN SP580312 Includes Sensor Info
FitsFront; RWD
orFront; 4WD; Single Rear Wheels
No mention of the 9900 lb power brakes for the timken; however when you click on the 'info' button to see more information, neither one of them actually say anything about it. So am I safe to order either?

 

[THarber]

There are some differences in the specs of each of those parts, measure carefully.

 

[THarber]

Also those prices are crazy. Looks like this is the same hub assembly that was on my H2. I replaced with new ones from Detroit Axle and never had an issue. Look at ebay or Amazon.

 

[GO0BER]

Also those prices are crazy. Looks like this is the same hub assembly that was on my H2. I replaced with new ones from Detroit Axle and never had an issue. Look at ebay or Amazon.

I rarely buy directly from rock auto (nothing against them, I just don't buy online if I don't have to) and usually end up buying from a place called "parts authority" near me.. they are the middle ground between dealers and autozone as far as I can tell from my experiences with them. I just use rock auto for research purposes because they have a wide selection of 'economy vs daily vs heavy duty' that gives me a starting point.

Ill have to get in the store and see what the carry and try to compare with what I have currently.

 

[BlaineBug]

Check out those lug stud thread cleaners and thread chasers. They sell them for big rings because this is a sort of routine maintenance with big rigs it would appear.