Replacing wheel studs, should I do more? 08 2500 xl 4x4

[GO0BER]

Hey all,

I just got new tires from Costco and I was told they will not service them (rotate/replace) again unless I get my wheel studs replaced. That seemed weird to me, so I tried to remove the wheels myself to see why.. turns out my studs are trash and it is a HUGE pain to back off the lugs and put them back on. There is no cross threading that I can see and nothing is rounded off/over.
My question is.. while I have the hub assembly off to press those studs out and press new ones in.. Should I just replace everything? If there is no issue with the hubs/bearings should I leave them alone?
The dash reads 140k miles however through my insurance app it shows the chassis has 200+k miles (I assume engine was replaced at some point.. no way to verify. though my title does show its not box a miles)

Then last question.. assuming its worthwhile to replace the whole setup.. here on RockAuto there is a reference to front 9900lb hydraulic brakes and one that doesn't mention that from AC DELCO. What is the difference?

and I guess my 'last last' question is.. I don't see anything for the rear.. what would I be looking for there?

I should also note I plan to install new rotors and brake pads on all 4 corners.. This is a daily driver that also tows our toy hauler (roughly 8400 lbs loaded)
Other key information.. 2008 Yukon XL 2500 4x4. 6.0... as of now all stock.

 

[tungsten]

On my old truck 03 2500,I replaced front wheel bearings seams about every 100000 kms buying the cheaper ones.

Assuming the bearings and studs are better quality on the pricey ones?

 

[GO0BER]

I am guessing/hoping that is the case. This is my first time ever replacing wheel studs and/or hubs and bearings.. From what I have seen I need to pull the whole assembly off to replace the studs which is what prompted me to even think about replacing the whole assembly.. but $2 per stud x 32 studs vs a couple hundred dollars per assembly.. wasn't sure if the cost was worth it as preventative or not.
I tend to do as much as I can while I have a system down to prevent having to take that whole system down again in the future for some other issue, but the price differential is not normally this steep.

 

[tungsten]

You'll know if the bearings are worn,they make that errrr sound at speed.Jack up the truck and wiggle the tire,if theirs play then there done.
The rear I assume axles have to be removed to press them in.

This all seams odd though as Ive never heard of having to replace studs?

 

[GO0BER]

You'll know if the bearings are worn,they make that errrr sound at speed.Jack up the truck and wiggle the tire,if theirs play then there done.
The rear I assume axles have to be removed to press them in.

This all seams odd though as Ive never heard of having to replace studs?

I don't think I have any issues with bearings/hubs as I have 0 noise.. I do have some 'clunks' when going over bumps.. but I am pretty sure that is the lower control arm ball joint (I have already replaced upper and tie rods).. I just wasn't sure how many eat the cost of doing everything at once as preventative maint vs leaving things alone.. even though you have to disassemble the whole thing to get the studs out/in.
I haven't had to replace studs before either (other than when one broke).. but there is definitely something about mine that isn't right.. with 0 cross threading and nothing that looks like buggered threads, my lugs are a HUGE pain to pull off and put back on.. to the point of worrying I will seize them on the install.

 

[tungsten]

I don't think I have any issues with bearings/hubs as I have 0 noise.. I do have some 'clunks' when going over bumps.. but I am pretty sure that is the lower control arm ball joint (I have already replaced upper and tie rods).. I just wasn't sure how many eat the cost of doing everything at once as preventative maint vs leaving things alone.. even though you have to disassemble the whole thing to get the studs out/in.
I haven't had to replace studs before either (other than when one broke).. but there is definitely something about mine that isn't right.. with 0 cross threading and nothing that looks like buggered threads, my lugs are a HUGE pain to pull off and put back on.. to the point of worrying I will seize them on the install.

Assuming their stretched a little I guess?

 

[B-train]

If it's a daily driver, just put in OEM stuff and run er.......

 

[GO0BER]

That would be my guess.. after replacing some other parts (like upper control arms and such) the previous owner seemed to have just "uggah uggah' as tight as their tools would go without thinking twice about proper torque specs for anything.. assuming they followed that logic with the studs it would make sense.

 

[GO0BER]

If it's a daily driver, just put in OEM stuff and run er.......

The question still stands.. should I replace the whole wheel/hub assembly (even with OEM vs heavier duty.. I lean heavier duty due to volume of towing) or do I leave those alone for now?

 

[B-train]

My guess is you live in a salt area and either the studs were stretched or cross threaded.....maybe one led to another. Either way, new studs are a job that requires removal of the hub and bearing or axle shafts. No small job.

I'd pull the tires myself and inspect the studs. Do you see threads degraded, loss of threads at the mating surface, etc that would validate their evaluation?

If they look somewhat normal, coat the hub face and studs with antiseeze and run it.