*Update: Engine Down* Cam/lifter upgrades?

[RLC2020]

So, I love my Yukon and plan to keep it for at least another 100k miles. My plan is to make it last that long. What's the general consensus on disabling the AFM via a range device vs changing the lifters/cam to an aftermarket set up? I have about 70k on the truck right now and want to make it last, I'm also having a very weird intermittent stumbling issue when the engine is cold that will throw a code for cyl #7 misfire. I've replaced the coil and plug on that cyl but no change. I don't know if it's related to the afm lifters, but It's been bugging me for a year now. Has anyone changed the lifters/cam on one of these 5.3s that can offer some insight? or will a range device add longevity to my engine without having to make major changes?

 

[CMoore711]

FWIW I have a ‘15 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.2 L86. I bought CPO with 23K on it, I installed a Range AFM disabler at 30K and at 78K I still had a failed AFM lifter. The repair was covered under the power train warranty at the time. After the repair I put the Range AFM disabler device back in and it’s been in since. Currently at 140K with no lifter issues…

Just thought I’d share some food for thought. I personally do not think that just a tune or AFM disabler is enough to add longevity.

It’s really a dice roll in my opinion. TO be honest if you’re considering going through a mechanical delete of the AFM with cam, lifters, etc. you would be good for far more than an additional 100K miles.

Plenty of threads on here with AFM delete parts list, different experience/results with different cams, etc.

 

[RLC2020]

Jokes on me I guess. Engine went pop this morning on my way to work! Accelerating onto the main road and it stumbled, then literally made a pop noise, then down on power and knock knock knock. feels like at least 1 cyl is down and it's making unpleasant noises. No codes on the dash at this time. It's getting towed to my mechanic right now. I'll link a video of it running so you can hear it.... GRRRRR

 

[swathdiver]

Jokes on me I guess. Engine went pop this morning on my way to work! literally made a pop noise, then down on power and knock knock knock. It's getting towed to my mechanic right now. I'll link a video of it running so you can hear it.... GRRRRR

Well, hopefully there's no damage and you can do an AFM delete. Keep us posted.

 

[joe_joe]

My 2015 Suburban (5.3 L83) has 139,7XX on the clock I just did the DOD delete kit on it. I too heard a crazy loud tapping noise and was receiving a misfire code on cylinder 5. Pulled the valve cover and head and found that I had a lifter that broke up into a few pieces and also scorched the cam. The lifter that went up was not one of the DOD lifters, but nonetheless it came apart.

I purchased this DOD delete kit and she is now back up and running. While I was at it and had the motor completely out of the vehicle I replaced every gasket I could I think of to include the rear main seal. I also added the Volant cold air intake along with a set of shorty ****** headers. I will say that if you do the headers order new plug wires because a few of the factory plug wires (particularly 3 & 5) will sit right on the header and obviously burn through.

I have a bunch of photos on my Facebook page and can certainly share some along with any struggles I encountered along the way if anyone would like to see them.

 

[CMoore711]

Just as @swathdiver stated hopefully the damage isn't too extensive and you can do a DOD delete and move on.

It's not all bad news; Just sounds like your Yukon made your decision for you!

 

[RLC2020]

Yes, decision was definitely made for me. Video below. Sounds like top end noise to me, but hard to tell 100%. I'm having it towed to my mechanic who is going to take a look and report his findings to me. I'm fixing it regardless of what it is, but I'll be sure to do the Texas Speed DOD delete package. I'd like a little more aggressive cam in it anyway. Boy, what are the odds that I asked the question yesterday and now here we are, lol

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[RLC2020]

My 2015 Suburban (5.3 L83) has 139,7XX on the clock I just did the DOD delete kit on it. I too heard a crazy loud tapping noise and was receiving a misfire code on cylinder 5. Pulled the valve cover and head and found that I had a lifter that broke up into a few pieces and also scorched the cam. The lifter that went up was not one of the DOD lifters, but nonetheless it came apart.

I purchased this DOD delete kit and she is now back up and running. While I was at it and had the motor completely out of the vehicle I replaced every gasket I could I think of to include the rear main seal. I also added the Volant cold air intake along with a set of shorty ****** headers. I will say that if you do the headers order new plug wires because a few of the factory plug wires (particularly 3 & 5) will sit right on the header and obviously burn through.

I have a bunch of photos on my Facebook page and can certainly share some along with any struggles I encountered along the way if anyone would like to see them.

Thanks for the information there. I'll be looking into the kit and see if my guy can do all that for me. That's a little out of my range honestly. Weird thing is it has not thrown any codes...

 

[Thrust]

My 2015 Suburban (5.3 L83) has 139,7XX on the clock I just did the DOD delete kit on it. I too heard a crazy loud tapping noise and was receiving a misfire code on cylinder 5. Pulled the valve cover and head and found that I had a lifter that broke up into a few pieces and also scorched the cam. The lifter that went up was not one of the DOD lifters, but nonetheless it came apart.

I purchased this DOD delete kit and she is now back up and running. While I was at it and had the motor completely out of the vehicle I replaced every gasket I could I think of to include the rear main seal. I also added the Volant cold air intake along with a set of shorty ****** headers. I will say that if you do the headers order new plug wires because a few of the factory plug wires (particularly 3 & 5) will sit right on the header and obviously burn through.

I have a bunch of photos on my Facebook page and can certainly share some along with any struggles I encountered along the way if anyone would like to see them.

Yes please share. What shorty header did you go with?

 

[joe_joe]

Yes please share. What shorty header did you go with?

I went with Hook3r. For some reason when I spell it correctly it turns it into a serious of asterisks. I put the link to everything in my original post. I will post pictures later when I'm back home.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

If you tune DOD out, plug the defeater in, etc., you STILL have the DOD equipment in there, which is still subject to failure, even if DOD is not being used. If you're not going to use it, swap the stuff out for non-DOD parts.

We just got a cylinder 7 miss in our 2010 PPV. So, it can still happen, if you still have all those nasty parts in there.

 

[Thrust]

H o o k e r is one of those forbidden words on TYF. I was looking at them as well as JBA. Overall did the exhaust tone change much? I would like to help the supercharger breath better on mine with some shorty headers. Not in the market $$$ or desire for longtubes as I'm afraid it would make the exhaust way to loud.

 

[joe_joe]

Here are a few photos of the carnage and finished product

 

[joe_joe]

More photos

 

[RLC2020]

Well, OP here, My guy just informed me that the cyl 7 exhaust valve is stuck and most likely I'm looking at cam/lifters at the minimum. He's going to pull the head off in the next day or so and see if the block is salvageable. He told me that it's probably easier to just replace the engine, but I'd rather put the money into having them do the cam and lifters from Texas speed rather than put in a new engine that will have the same issues down the line.

The hurricane slowed down the process as they were closed 3 days last week so they are a little backed up at the moment.

 

[joe_joe]

That is one of the DOD cylinders I believe. If you're guy is capable, I would suggest doing the DOD delete kit I mentioned in my post. I will say that if you end up adding a set of headers like I did then don't forget new MSD plug wires and heat sleeves.

If you have any questions feel free to reach out. Good luck with everything.

 

[Thrust]

Wow that lifter was toast.
Headers look good installed. How did the intake valves look in the head? Were they decently clean or coated with carbon?

 

[joe_joe]

The intake valves looked great for 139k lol.

 

[RLC2020]

The truck is now at an LS engine builder that was local to me. They are going to swap all the lifters and remove the DOD stuff. For a few bucks more (double) They offered to change out cam, oil pump, springs, rockers, lifters, and dyno tune it for me. Tempting choice, once they inspect the engine and make sure that they can get the damaged lifter out without issue I'll decide what I want to do with it. Either way, No more DOD for me! I may end up with an extra 60hp as a bonus!

 

[joe_joe]

Make sure they disable the DOD once they install the kit and fire it back up. Just putting the plugs in place isn't enough. The kit from Glenn's Performance is awesome.