Ball Joints and Sway Bar links

[MarshMarlowe]

I recently brought my wife's 2012 LS 2WD 5.3 Tahoe in to the dealer for the Takata Airbag recall. They did their 63,000 point inspection, and noted the Sway Bar link was broken, and found play in the lower ball joints.

Their repair quotes were typically expensive for dealer rates. I've been researching how to repair this myself, and I'm not sure if it's best to replace just the ball joints (I'll have to either buy or rent a press tool), or replace the entire lower control arm assemblies. Dollars and sense, what do you all suggest? Where's the best place / brands to buy the control arms or ball joints? Same question for the sway bar links.

Thanks!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

My recommendation is to avoid dealers in favor of small local repair shops whenever possible, and you will save aa ton of money.

You can buy the sway bar end links from Rockauto.com, and they are cheap (around $25 each), and you can easily replace them yourself.

You can replace all 4 control arms, with ball joints included, for about $600 in parts. Depending upon your mechanic experience level, they are not too hard to replace. Worst case, purchase the parts yourself and have a small local repair shop perform the replacement.

Regarding the two 'seal' items, do you see any fluid leaks in either of those areas? If you don't see any leaking, then don't replace them at this time.

Other knowledgeable folks on this Forum will chime in.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

My recommendation is to avoid dealers in favor of small local repair shops whenever possible, and you will save aa ton of money.

You can buy the sway bar end links from Rockauto.com, and they are cheap (around $25 each), and you can easily replace them yourself.

You can replace all 4 control arms, with ball joints included, for about $600 in parts. Depending upon your mechanic experience level, they are not too hard to replace. Worst case, purchase the parts yourself and have a small local repair shop perform the replacement.

Regarding the two 'seal' items, do you see any fluid leaks in either of those areas? If you don't see any leaking, then don't replace them at this time.

Other knowledgeable folks on this Forum will chime in.

Thanks Joseph. I posted a separate thread about the rear end leaks here

Pinion and Axle Seal Replacement

I recently brought my wife's 2012 LS 2WD 5.3 Tahoe in to the dealer for the Takata Airbag recall. They did their multi-point inspection, and noted the Pinion Seal and Axle Seal was leaking Their repair quotes were typically expensive for dealer rates. I've been researching how to repair this...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Do you recommend going with an entire lower control arm assembly versus just replacing the ball joints?

 

[iamdub]

I recently brought my wife's 2012 LS 2WD 5.3 Tahoe in to the dealer for the Takata Airbag recall. They did their 63,000 point inspection, and noted the Sway Bar link was broken, and found play in the lower ball joints.

Their repair quotes were typically expensive for dealer rates. I've been researching how to repair this myself, and I'm not sure if it's best to replace just the ball joints (I'll have to either buy or rent a press tool), or replace the entire lower control arm assemblies. Dollars and sense, what do you all suggest? Where's the best place / brands to buy the control arms or ball joints? Same question for the sway bar links.

Thanks!

View attachment 378614

IMO, I'd replace the arms. You'll get new bushings along with ball joints and it'd be so much easier and faster. It'd just be an unbolt-and-swap ordeal. The replacement end links are a much better design and they're cheap. These, alone, would make a marked improvement in handling. While you're at it, I'd strongly suggest replacing the sway bar bushings. They are also a cheap and easy upgrade that you'll feel.

How many miles are on this rig?


Looking through my past Amazon orders, I have Moog K200222 and Moog K6408 for the sway bar bushings. The end links I have are irrelevant to you because mine is lowered and I bought some for another vehicle because I needed shorter links.

For the brand of arms, I can't recommend AC Delco OE (Original Equipment) enough. They're likely the most expensive, though. If your Tahoe has lower miles and the bushings are fine, then it might be cheaper to rent (actually borrow cuz you get all your money back) a ball joint press and just swap the joints. Just the same, I'd aim for AC Delco OE ball joints. Be aware that there are three tiers of AC Delco parts: OE, Gold and Silver. OE is what is installed at the factory. Gold is a quality aftermarket replacement that is a 'good' substitute for OE, but might not be quite as good as OE or, in some rare cases, actually be an improved design. It's often not quite as good as OE. Silver is the lower end aftermarket that is basically just a way to have a new part in place of the old and is price-driven rather than quality-driven. Also note that the previous names for these tiers, (in "descending" order) was Original, Professional and Advantage.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

IMO, I'd replace the arms. You'll get new bushings along with ball joints and it'd be so much easier and faster. It'd just be an unbolt-and-swap ordeal. The replacement end links are a much better design and they're cheap. These, alone, would make a marked improvement in handling. While you're at it, I'd strongly suggest replacing the sway bar bushings. They are also a cheap and easy upgrade that you'll feel.

How many miles are on this rig?

96k miles

 

[gooffeyguy]

I'm going through this myself with my 2012 Denali.

I purchased complete new lower control arms with ball joints already installed. They're about $150 each for good brands, but can be bought for about $90 each for cheaper brands. I decided to replace the entire arm because it also has all new bushings.

I had a 2011 a few years ago that I replaced just the lower ball joints on. It wasn't too bad of a job, but I do remember having a heck of a time getting the old ones off. After using an air chisel to squish back the retaining lip around it, it took a whole bunch of beating it with a 3lb sledge to knock it out. New ones went in no problem with the press.

Replacing the entire arm is easier I think. You don't have to remove the entire knuckle and brake. The upper control arm will hold them up.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thanks Joseph. I posted a separate thread about the rear end leaks here

Pinion and Axle Seal Replacement

I recently brought my wife's 2012 LS 2WD 5.3 Tahoe in to the dealer for the Takata Airbag recall. They did their multi-point inspection, and noted the Pinion Seal and Axle Seal was leaking Their repair quotes were typically expensive for dealer rates. I've been researching how to repair this...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Do you recommend going with an entire lower control arm assembly versus just replacing the ball joints?

Entire control arms.

 

[OR VietVet]

What has been said by @Joseph Garcia, @gooffeyguy and @iamdub said. Get the whole arm(s) at RA and the links too. Get the Genuine GM stuff and be money ahead or I would substitute Moog or AC Delco.

 

[GranPrix]

I literally just changed my sway bar end-links and bushings yesterday with Moog. Super easy, took about 45 mins front and rear and very noticeable difference in handling.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

I really appreciate all the helpful posts from everyone. I'm shopping RA and Amazon - I see Moog has a RK (cheaper) and a CK series LCA assembly. I didn't immediately see a GM genuine part that wasn't for a 4WD. Maybe I'm missing something?..

This is what I have in the cart with Amazon
MOOG RK620888 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly https://a.co/d/hp98RvZ

 

[gooffeyguy]

I really appreciate all the helpful posts from everyone. I'm shopping RA and Amazon - I see Moog has a RK (cheaper) and a CK series LCA assembly. I didn't immediately see a GM genuine part that wasn't for a 4WD. Maybe I'm missing something?..

This is what I have in the cart with Amazon
MOOG RK620888 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly https://a.co/d/hp98RvZ

Make sure your existing control arms are steel and not aluminum. Some models came with aluminum ones and those are available from the aftermarket also.

 

[OR VietVet]

Links: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7258944&cc=3015565&pt=7580&jsn=938

Lower arms: right: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3984126&cc=3015565&pt=10401&jsn=1006
left: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3983769&cc=3015565&pt=10401&jsn=1005


All at Rock Auto. In the vendor section, RA has a 5% discount code that you can use as well. Amazon parts are sometimes reboxed Chinese crap. You have to be careful. These links are without aluminum arms

 

[Fless]

I really appreciate all the helpful posts from everyone. I'm shopping RA and Amazon - I see Moog has a RK (cheaper) and a CK series LCA assembly. I didn't immediately see a GM genuine part that wasn't for a 4WD. Maybe I'm missing something?..

This is what I have in the cart with Amazon
MOOG RK620888 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly https://a.co/d/hp98RvZ

Consensus has been to avoid the cheaper Moog control arms.

 

[OR VietVet]

Consensus has been to avoid the cheaper Moog control arms.

Yea, me too but he was already leaning that way so I supplied the links. I found the AC Delco right lower arm but could not find or missed the left lower arm in the list.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Consensus has been to avoid the cheaper Moog control arms.

Thanks for that. I was under the impression that all things MOOG were the best. I'll opt for the CK series if I go with MOOG LCAs

I did find these Genuine GM LCAs here

Buy Genuine GM Auto Parts - Arm (Part # 20869201) | GM Parts Store

Discover genuine GM auto parts at GMPartsStore.com your destination for OEM GM parts, like this Lower Control Arm Part# 20869201 discount prices and fast shipping. Shop now for GM parts

www.gmpartsstore.com

 

[gooffeyguy]

I've noticed that where the lower strut mounts to the lower control arm is different on all these newer ones.

That area is recessed on the new arms while not recessed on my OE arms.

Guessing that the newer parts is an updated design and hope it doesn't mess with the ride height.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Moog was considered to sell quality parts some time ago, but their overall quality has slipped in recent years, so one has to be more careful when considering Moog parts these days.

I've used GMPartsDirect.com, and they are fine. Do NOT use GMPartsGiant.com, ever.

OP: We've given you lots of advice, and now the decision is yours. Let us know what you decide.

 

[89Suburban]

Thanks for that. I was under the impression that all things MOOG were the best. I'll opt for the CK series if I go with MOOG LCAs

I did find these Genuine GM LCAs here

Buy Genuine GM Auto Parts - Arm (Part # 20869201) | GM Parts Store

Discover genuine GM auto parts at GMPartsStore.com your destination for OEM GM parts, like this Lower Control Arm Part# 20869201 discount prices and fast shipping. Shop now for GM parts

www.gmpartsstore.com

Here is a cheat video to replace the lower arms. Only thing this guy failed to point out is to break the stud loose off the knuckle before unbolting the lower arm bolts from the frame. I unbolted the arms first like he did and I had a HELL of a time trying to break the stud loose with the arm flopping around. And being on the ground instead of a high lift you can't get a good swing on the hammer. Loosen the nut on the stud to leave a gap but don't remove it so it catches it from falling and bang it loose.

 

[iamdub]

Thanks for that. I was under the impression that all things MOOG were the best. I'll opt for the CK series if I go with MOOG LCAs

I did find these Genuine GM LCAs here

Buy Genuine GM Auto Parts - Arm (Part # 20869201) | GM Parts Store

Discover genuine GM auto parts at GMPartsStore.com your destination for OEM GM parts, like this Lower Control Arm Part# 20869201 discount prices and fast shipping. Shop now for GM parts

www.gmpartsstore.com

NO to the RK Series!

Speaking of, I bought some AC Delco Professional (now known as "Gold") upper and lower arms. They were in AC Delco boxes, etc. They're re-boxed Moog CK Series. So, AC Delco decided that the CK Series was adequate to be used in their "good" aftermarket line. I'd bet that the RK Series would be in the AC Delco Advantage (now "Silver") boxes. Still, if you can find and afford some GM Genuine/AC Delco OE arms, they would be your best bet. I forget who, but someone recently bought some and the price was much higher than it was not so long ago.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Thanks again everyone. I will go with Genuine GM where I can find them, or CK series MOOG

Probably a silly question at this point, but with almost 100k on the clock, and needing to remove the struts to remove the LCAs, should I go with new struts also? The Monroes seem to get good reviews...

Also - I remember a shop telling me in the past that there was a worn tie rod, but they did not specify inner or outer. I'll probably need to replace those too... Hoping it's not an inner tie rod that's worn

Edit: confirmed it is an inner tie rod that had failed. Any idea on what size wrench / inner tie rod removal tool?