What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Walchit
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2021
- Posts
- 447
- Reaction score
- 911
I work slow also. You didn't wanna chop a hole in the floorboard for easy access?
Logan5
Full Access Member
$150 for the rotors and calipers. Truck had 44k miles on it when it went boom. The pads still had 50% life or so but I just got some new PowerStop z36 pads.
Logan5
Full Access Member
The first time I dropped the gas tank (replace fuel pump) was a little bit of an adventure that I crawled through slowly.
But the second time I dropped it (to run new brake lines) the whole thing took 15 minutes, and most of that was using a little transfer pump to move gas into a can.
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Whos up to date with what EFan harness to buy? Pretty sure the PO that wired mine screwed something up and its causing the driver-side fan relay to burn up. IIRC the Nelson performance harness has been known to have issues, anyone know if an OEM one is available?
Attachments
Hit up @ScottyBoy- he sells used OEM ones that he’s cleaned up and re-loomed plus he can instruct you on how to install it. I tried a couple aftermarket ones and even beefed one up and it still melted. No problems since going to the OEM harness and relays.
Edit: it looks like you have the OEM relays which are part of the OEM harness so I’m not sure what’s up. Have you looked at the thread in the tech section that shows how to wire that harness? Iirc all there is to connect is power, ground, the green trigger wire that goes to the pcm, and the 2 plugs on the fans. There isn’t much to screw up. Maybe you have a fan going bad? Try switching the fan plugs so that relay runs the other fan and see if the other relay melts.
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Thank you for the response I specifically remembered you having an issue with them at some point and figured youd know the ultimate solution!
All the wiring is the same color and red so its a PITA to trace but I will if it gets down to that, I switch fans with a different set of fans so I'll see how long that lasts. Seems to last about two weeks before popping but I'm not driving it this week so it will take awhile to know if this fixed it. I'd also love the OEM fusebox cover that has the second cover for the fan relays, its a pita to pull the entire box everytime.
- Joined
- May 9, 2018
- Posts
- 7,137
- Reaction score
- 13,928
Is there a change your entire truck can go up in flames... looking at how much that area melted??
I may be carried away, but I'd disconnect the battery when it's bed time?
Or pull the fuse?
I may be carried away, but I'd disconnect the battery when it's bed time?
Or pull the fuse?
Scottydoggs
Full Access Member
second time around is always faster, you know how to get that job done already. hardly have to think about it really lol
First time is a learning experience and takes longer. And the second time around everything's been apart already, and most of what's going to break has broken.
Last edited:
Logan5
Full Access Member
Exactly. I already rehabed the tank straps nuts and bolts, and all the hose connections were cleaned from the first time, and I even remembered how to get my arm up inside the frame to squeeze a disconnect.First time is a learning experience and takes longer. And the second time around everything's been apart already, and what's going to break has broken.
Logan5
Full Access Member
Almost ready for the big brake upgrade
NoReverseYukon
Full Access Member
I do have a couple spares, but I'm sure the cost to ship one to you would make it more cost-effective to do some local junkyarding.
Have you checked to see if your wheels clear? It’s been an issue for lots of people.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Fair point, I will put it on my junkyard list.
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Last Saturday was a starter replacement.
Monday, the airbag light flashed and stayed on after start-up.
Service Airbag massage on the DIC.
B0100 was the code.
Left front airbag impact sensor performance.
I had rewards points at NAPA and they were running the "Bucket Sale", where you get 20% off your order when you buy three or more items online (or buy a bucket in the store for $5 I think?). I bought the impact sensor and 2 cans of BrakeKleen. You can never have enough BrakeKleen, right?
Originally, the sensor was $166.99.
With rewards and the discount, the impact sensor was $100.19.
I got $66.80 off.
Since it was in stock and the price was pretty good, I ordered from the local shop.
About 15 minutes to swap it out. Pretty easy!
I didn't remove the plastic splash guard or any other parts.
You can reach right in there and get a 10mm ratchet box wrench on the bolt.
Light immediately cleared and good to go.
Here was the old part and the NAPA replacement part for the '04 Tahoe...
Monday, the airbag light flashed and stayed on after start-up.
Service Airbag massage on the DIC.
B0100 was the code.
Left front airbag impact sensor performance.
I had rewards points at NAPA and they were running the "Bucket Sale", where you get 20% off your order when you buy three or more items online (or buy a bucket in the store for $5 I think?). I bought the impact sensor and 2 cans of BrakeKleen. You can never have enough BrakeKleen, right?
Originally, the sensor was $166.99.
With rewards and the discount, the impact sensor was $100.19.
I got $66.80 off.
Since it was in stock and the price was pretty good, I ordered from the local shop.
About 15 minutes to swap it out. Pretty easy!
I didn't remove the plastic splash guard or any other parts.
You can reach right in there and get a 10mm ratchet box wrench on the bolt.
Light immediately cleared and good to go.
Here was the old part and the NAPA replacement part for the '04 Tahoe...
mattbta
Full Access Member
This one had me flummoxed for a while - the one still connected in the picture. I used my Lisle tool that worked on the filter and the lines to the rail but it didn't seem to work. Gave it a couple days of thought and some helpful chats with @Fless who presented another possibility - to remove those lines from the tank and leave them on the body. He also requested pics of the lines to help future TYF folks. After taking a picture, I pressed on the line and heard a click. Damnit, just needed a firmer tug...lol. Was able to disconnect it successfully.
Logan5
Full Access Member
Those connections at the front of the tank are the snarky ones. I had all the hoses at the rear disconnected and the tank fully supported by the jack at this point. I was able to shift the tank around some to get clearance as well as take any tension off the connector.
Also I noticed your spare tire was still up in that one pic. When I did mine I took out the spare and had the back end up high enough to sit on the ground while being up in the spare tire cavity. That made disconnecting the rear hoses a breeze.
Similar threads
