Suspension still stiff and jumpy after overhaul

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CTUBS8732

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Recently overhauled my suspension and steering. Used a TRQ kit from 1A Auto and also just put new bilsteins 5100s front and rear. Replaced sway bar bushings as well. Only bushings not replaced are the lower control arm bushings and lower control arm shock absorber mount bushings.

Truck still rides rough and when I hit bumps in the road it feels like my truck is taking a beating.



2005 Tahoe 5.3L LT 4x4
 

swathdiver

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Well, 5100s do deliver a stiffer ride than stock. I would suggest finishing the replacement of the other bushings. However, I cannot imagine that the quality is that of OE for that price for all of those parts. While mine is a different generation, rebuilding my front end with all OE parts last year cost over $3K in parts, I reckon it's much higher this year. It rides like an old Cadillac and handles the turns like a Monte Carlo!
 
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CTUBS8732

CTUBS8732

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Well, 5100s do deliver a stiffer ride than stock. I would suggest finishing the replacement of the other bushings. However, I cannot imagine that the quality is that of OE for that price for all of those parts. While mine is a different generation, rebuilding my front end with all OE parts last year cost over $3K in parts, I reckon it's much higher this year. It rides like an old Cadillac and handles the turns like a Monte Carlo!
Everything I replaced was shot and worn. I wanted to go with everything oem but in my current situation I don’t have the funds to purchase ac delco which I wish I could. Got the shocks at a steal from a buddy who recently sold his Tahoe. (Brand new)
But as for a Cadillac ride I did not get lol. I got a super stiff ride and when hitting bumps it still feels like I have bad shocks. I don’t have the boat effect going on it’s more like my wheels and jumping when hitting bumps.
 

Matthew Jeschke

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Have you checked Z-angle on your control arms? Did you level the truck? What load rating tires are you running?

I rebuilt my 2001 with energy suspension bushings, and 5100's. It has leveling keys but I cranked them down so 1" higher in back. I have Load Range E tires (10 ply). My truck is VERY comfortable but no Cadillac to ride in.
 

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Do your RPO codes include G65 and ZW7? If so, that's Premium Smooth Ride. If those PSR rear shocks are changed to conventional shocks, the springs should be changed, too.
 
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CTUBS8732

CTUBS8732

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Have you checked Z-angle on your control arms? Did you level the truck? What load rating tires are you running?

I rebuilt my 2001 with energy suspension bushings, and 5100's. It has leveling keys but I cranked them down so 1" higher in back. I have Load Range E tires (10 ply). My truck is VERY comfortable but no Cadillac to ride in.
I’m running 285/70/17s
And aired up at 65psi. Max is 80
Cooper ATP

Also, how do you do a z check? Never heard of it.
And I didn’t level the truck.
 
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I'm wondering what the rear shocks look like -- the ones you replaced. Were they substantially larger in diameter than a typical shock? They may have been the Nivomat self-adjusting shocks.
 
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CTUBS8732

CTUBS8732

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I'm wondering what the rear shocks look like -- the ones you replaced. Were they substantially larger in diameter than a typical shock? They may have been the Nivomat self-adjusting shocks.
The shocks on the front were about the same size. New ones were a bit longer.

New Rear shock were noticeably smaller in diameter.
Old ones were real fat.
 

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The shocks on the front were about the same size. New ones were a bit longer.

New Rear shock were noticeably smaller in diameter.
Old ones were real fat.

Likely the ones you removed were the Nivomat self-adjusting shocks. Bilstein specifies changing the springs when converting to conventional shocks:

1650292238566.png


Owners (and members here) have experienced stability issues (read: squirrely handling) when the springs aren't changed.
 

corvette744

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Take it to the factory recommended 35 and your harsh ride should diminish.
Why are you running that much pressure?
Im sure it would ride smoother but a max 80 psi tire should never be run that low of pressure-he is about as low as i would go with that load rating tire.The factory recommended tire pressure of 35psi is not for an E rated tire.
 
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CTUBS8732

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Take it to the factory recommended 35 and your harsh ride should diminish.
Why are you running that much pressure?
I forget the rating of the tire but the max is 80psi. I’ve tried putting them at 35-45 but my gas milage goes to crap and I can feel the tires rolling over on themselves when taking turns, almost like a stumble. Also look flat lol. This is why I keep ‘em at 65.
 
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CTUBS8732

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Likely the ones you removed were the Nivomat self-adjusting shocks. Bilstein specifies changing the springs when converting to conventional shocks:

View attachment 368309

Owners (and members here) have experienced stability issues (read: squirrely handling) when the springs aren't changed.
I’m gonna end up just buying the nivomats and selling my 5100s. They’re still brand new. Less than 500 miles on them. I’m glad I joined this forum. I should’ve a long time ago. When I had my P71s I was on crownvic.net learning everything.
 

Mudsport96

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Im sure it would ride smoother but a max 80 psi tire should never be run that low of pressure-he is about as low as i would go with that load rating tire.The factory recommended tire pressure of 35psi is not for an E rated tire.
And thats why you dont run an E tire on something not meant for it. The ride will be harsh, wear will be inconsistent and traction will be compromised for accelerating, braking, and as he noted turning. Why, because it is designed to carry a load at a given pressure.
 

Mudsport96

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I forget the rating of the tire but the max is 80psi. I’ve tried putting them at 35-45 but my gas milage goes to crap and I can feel the tires rolling over on themselves when taking turns, almost like a stumble. Also look flat lol. This is why I keep ‘em at 65.
Nivomats may help some but the brunt of the issue is the E rated tires at more psi than the vehicles suspension is designed to absorb.
 

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Nivomats may help some but the brunt of the issue is the E rated tires at more psi than the vehicles suspension is designed to absorb.

I would agree. I have standard rated truck/SUV tires on my '04 with Premium Smooth Ride and run them at 40 psi. It's not exactly smooth but I'm okay with it. But I wouldn't want it any harsher.

If the Nivomats were still working okay when you removed them, I'd either put them back on, or replace the springs, keeping the shock/springs in the recommended set. And think about ditching the E-rated tires.

You can test the Nivomats' self-adjusting feature by measuring the rear bumper height, then loading up 200-300 lbs in the back. Measure the squat height, then drive a few blocks; they should recover the original height -- or close to it -- by then. They won't compensate until they "work" a little.
 
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CTUBS8732

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Can I remove both torsion bars at the same time? I’m trying to locate some bushings for the lower control arms and wanted to do both at the same time. And would I need to do anything special in the process like alignment ect.
 
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CTUBS8732

CTUBS8732

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I would agree. I have standard rated truck/SUV tires on my '04 with Premium Smooth Ride and run them at 40 psi. It's not exactly smooth but I'm okay with it. But I wouldn't want it any harsher.

If the Nivomats were still working okay when you removed them, I'd either put them back on, or replace the springs, keeping the shock/springs in the recommended set. And think about ditching the E-rated tires.

You can test the Nivomats' self-adjusting feature by measuring the rear bumper height, then loading up 200-300 lbs in the back. Measure the squat height, then drive a few blocks; they should recover the original height -- or close to it -- by then. They won't compensate until they "work" a little.
I wish. I trashed them. SMH.
 

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