Replacing a worn front suspension

[IRQVET]

So I've owned my rig for 20 years and the suspension is tired. Ordered new OEM Billstien shocks, 15 piece front end kit, as well as new sway bar bushings, and CV axle shafts. Also picked up some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator just to clean things up a bit. It was a California rig so it doesn't have any serious rust, just surface rust.

Question, I got everything apart except lower control arm. Can I remove it without messing with the torsion bar that runs through it, or do I need to loosen the torsion bar keys so its not under tension?

I'm no mechanic, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, lol.?

Any advice is welcomed.

Progress thus far.

 

[SpareParts]

If you are changing the lower control arm the bar gotta come out.
After rereading your question if i remember right you need to back the screw out. I can't remember if i had to remove the keys or not.

 

[IRQVET]

Appreciate it. I was under it today and I removed the key retainer, but for the life of me I couldn't get the actual keys out or the torsion bar to budge. Hit it with penetrating oil, letting it sit until next weekend.

I did let the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator tack up, and top dressed the frame rails with an oil based paint. Bushed it on this time, instead of the spray application like I did in 2008. Like I said, no serious rust, just surface rust. I'm truly blessed in that regard.

 

[YukonGTmaster]

Last time I removed the lower control arms on my '97 GT, I did Not remove the torsion bar. Mainly because it was seized in there big time. I loosened the lower control arm mounting bolts, pulled down on the control arm, and that relieved torsion bar tension. I placed a jack loosely under the control arm. Took the mounting bolts out, and used a heavy hammer to tap the control arm forward clearing the torsion bar. The jack just prevents the heavy arm from dropping. Alot of penetrating oil and heat helps big time for jobs like this. How did you get the "2 Door Owners Club" under your user name? Very cool!

 

[Fless]

How did you get the "2 Door Owners Club" under your user name? Very cool!

In your Account, under Account Details, add text to the "Custom title" field.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

So I've owned my rig for 20 years and the suspension is tired. Ordered new OEM Billstien shocks, 15 piece front end kit, as well as new sway bar bushings, and CV axle shafts. Also picked up some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator just to clean things up a bit. It was a California rig so it doesn't have any serious rust, just surface rust.

Question, I got everything apart except lower control arm. Can I remove it without messing with the torsion bar that runs through it, or do I need to loosen the torsion bar keys so its not under tension?

I'm no mechanic, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, lol.?

Any advice is welcomed.

Progress thus far.
View attachment 476494
View attachment 476495View attachment 476496

2 Door AND Barn doors.......

@OR VietVet is going to be jealous.

 

[OR VietVet]

Color me JEALOUS.

 

[IRQVET]

Thanks for the input guys, weather permitting cause north of me is suppose to have an ice storm, I may or may not be able to work my rig this weekend.

My rig has a crazy story. I got it in 2003 when it was booking at that time around $38K. I stumbled across a Craigslist ad that the seller only wanted $5k. My first thought was it's a scam, something wrong with the title, or something was up. Against my better judgement, I decided to call the seller. Dude was drunk as a skunk when I called and seemed annoyed. I asked him a few questions and agreed to drive two hours to meet him at his house.

Dude lived in a huge house up on a mountain. When I pulled up there was a brand new 4 door Tahoe with the paper plates still on it. Then I saw the 2 door. LT, 4WD, barn doors, leather interior, with around 40K miles. Thing was immaculate inside and out. I inspected the title, looked for body damage, couldn't find anything wrong with it.

Story goes, dudes wife was trying to haul a grandbaby into a booster seat. She was leaning so far forward she hurt her back. So she got pissed and drove to the Chevrolet dealership and WAY OVERPAID for a new 4 door without telling her husband. So when she got home, the fight was on. Dude started drinking and was just furious with his wife. So I guess he posted the ad and I guess I called like 2 minutes later.

So I reiterated "you only want $5k for this?" His response and I quote, "Get this F*#king thing out of my sight." The Dealerships monroney sticker was still in the glove box, dude custom ordered this rig and put every available option on it, and paid $51K when it was new. 5 years later I get it for $5k (crazy).

Daily drove this thing completely trouble free until 2017 when at 164K miles, my radiator cap failed while I was driving in the Nevada desert in August. I was just cruising down the highway when I just happen to look at my gauge cluster and my temperature gauge was pegged. Long story short- I cracked the block.

But because I never had much money into this rig, and it had been so reliable, I called GM and got a brand new motor put in and (parts and installation) was $4k. Motor is stock except I had it painted hanger orange as a throwback. It's always been a great truck and I still enjoy driving it. But not being my daily driver anymore I'm tackling all the deferred maintenance items.

Back in 2017 when I had the crate motor installed.

 

[West 1]

That is quite the story on you purchase. We would all like to find a rig like that.

On your lower control arms. Yes the torsion bar has to come out. To do that they need to be free at the rear and at the front. I have come across both stuck at different times. One Suburban out of Michigan was stuck so bad I soaked it for days in penetrating oil. Finally got out a 5' long steel bar about 1" diameter. Used it and a 5 pound sledge hammer to pound the torsion bar out of the control arm. Both sides took quite a beating to remove due the rust build up. Once out I cleaned them with a large wire brush on my grinder. They went back in like brand new.

I always put a paint mark on the torsion bar adjuster bolts so I can return them to the exact setting they came out at. Saves time on install. I think that stubborn Suburban was in the garage 3 days longer than it should have been as I figured out how to break the torsion bar loose. Today I have an electric impact hammer that might have knocked them right out but back then it was the 5' steel bar and a 5 lb sledge.

For install and removal I use a hydraulic bottle jack and an adapter I made to fit in the dimple on the torsion bar adjuster. Make sure you are 100% straight up and down as you pump the jack to move the adjuster into place. Not perfect but has worked at least a dozen times for me. I also use a little anti seize on the ends where they slide into the control arm and adjuster so I never fight them again hopefully.

 

[IRQVET]

Was beating on the torsion bars today, can't get them to budge in the slightest. Not sure if this would work, as I feel maybe its not moving because its bottomed out on either side. So maybe if I unbolt the lower control arm and move it slightly, could that give an inch or two of wiggle room for the rear portion of the torsion bar to get out of the key?

Only accomplishment today was getting the frame rail completed painted. Figured I'll allow it to cure over night before I begin messing with everything again. I will say that new formula of the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator (plus) stretches really fair. That pint sized jar being brushed on- went really far. Still have half a pint left over. I don't remember the original Eastwood Rust Encapsulator doing that. I was pretty impressed.

 

[YukonGTmaster]

I had the same issue as you. My torsion bars would not budge. And the truck was only 10 years old at the time. Get the control arm disconnected, and work at driving it forward, clear of the torsion bar at the front. Good luck.

 

[IRQVET]

Today's progress, almost got one side buttoned up. As for the torsion bar and lower control arm bushings, I think I'm going to have a shop do it.

 

[IRQVET]

Considering ditching my wheels and tires (16in Mickey Thompson Type 2/ Goodyear Duratrack 33's) in favor of a new set of 16 in Mickey Thompson Type 3's and another set of Duratrack 33's). It's not that I cannot and sand down/ buff out these wheels to refinish them, it's just with 3 kids, I don't want to invest the time needed to bring them back to life. Thinking once all this deference maintenance and refreshing is done, I'll move to body and paint (next summer), and keep this set on there until that's finished- then update the wheels and tires. . .

Other items on the punch list I need to tackle:

1. Driver Interior Door Panel Replacement
2. Door pin replacement(s)
3. Rear Diff seal and new fluid
4. Transmission Service (if not total 4L60 replacement since it does have 210K miles)?
5. New Window and door Seals all the way around.
6. Headlight and Tail light replacement
7. Need to address the exhaust, it drones currently at highway speeds and I'm getting too old for that $hit. lol

I know it seems like alot, but with the cost of new vehicles (and that $700-1,000 monthly payment), I think sinking some money into this one is the smarter move so I can use that money to keep killing my investment/ retirement accounts. .

 

[YukonGTmaster]

Have you ever done the lower intake gaskets? Mine leaked at the coolant ports and pitted the intake quite badly. I did the fuel spider upgrade at the same time.

 

[IRQVET]

Have you ever done the lower intake gaskets? Mine leaked at the coolant ports and pitted the intake quite badly. I did the fuel spider upgrade at the same time.

Being the engine is a crate engine replacement with only 55K miles, I have not had to cross that bridge yet. But it might worthwhile keeping an eye on.