pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
A lot of work to get both of them detailed up. My hats off to you. Both look great!
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Thank you, my friend. It’s a labor of love.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Hmmm. I guess have a very different way of expressing love to mine.
Or I just don't love mine as much as you do yours.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I accidently sprayed the side of the hoemare with transmission fluid while doing air checks on the transmission rebuild.
That lead to some cleanup...
Man, it sure shines up with a little ATF!!
That lead to some cleanup...
Man, it sure shines up with a little ATF!!
Sparksalot
Elite Member
I learned that trick from my gandpa as a teen. He had learned it while working at a dealership before opening his own shop. A bit of ATF made all those used jalopies shine!
gooffeyguy
Tom
Damnit, will putting 75-90 synthetic gear oil with LS additive into something that doesn't need the LS additive make it operate weird?
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Never seen or heard that it would cause an issue.
other way around and things go weird.
gooffeyguy
Tom
That's what I was thinking.Never seen or heard that it would cause an issue.
other way around and things go weird.
I'm wanting to change the transfer case and rear axle fluid in the Acadia. It takes 75w90 gear oil. The synthetic stuff I ordered has the LS additive in it. I didn't notice that when I ordered it. It was delivered a bit ago and I am noticing on the bottles that it has LS additive.
It won’t matter. You’re fine.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
If it's wrong, then I did the same thing to the Wife's Buick.
And i have been doing the same thing to my rear and front axles for years.
I have never seen 75w90 synthetic available w/o the LS additive.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I got the transmission assembled today.
I thought I would get further, but just more time detailing stuff out to be sure I didn't fk up somewhere.
I was ready to drop the valve body on, then I found myself staring at the shift shaft seal.
I had tried to extract the roll pins but I failed early on.
So, I gave it one more try before popping on the valve body...
Roll pins extracted successfully this time around using a set of dikes and a driver.
Was able to install the new seal, but I still couldn't get the parking prowl removed to exchange it's O-ring.
I'm still calling it a sucess since the gear selector shaft looked pretty nasty, felt like it was waiting to leak...
I thought I would get further, but just more time detailing stuff out to be sure I didn't fk up somewhere.
I was ready to drop the valve body on, then I found myself staring at the shift shaft seal.
I had tried to extract the roll pins but I failed early on.
So, I gave it one more try before popping on the valve body...
Roll pins extracted successfully this time around using a set of dikes and a driver.
Was able to install the new seal, but I still couldn't get the parking prowl removed to exchange it's O-ring.
I'm still calling it a sucess since the gear selector shaft looked pretty nasty, felt like it was waiting to leak...
iamdub
Full Access Member
I've used the Mobil1 Synthetic "LS" stuff in my brother's truck and mine, neither of which required the friction modifier. No problems. I read somewhere that it states it's formulated for those requiring it but is compatible for those that do not.
Actually, my Gov-Bomb was getting stuck in the locked position. After the gear oil change, it works great again.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
How many magnets are too many magnets?
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I bought this for my yukon. It was the only synthetic I could find without the additive. I've ran mobil 1 and royal purple with no issues though (avalanche and others). I just got that to protect that warranty (yukon) if something were to happen.
Rear liftgate actuator went out on the 2007 this weekend. Searching for posts to fix and planning to order parts today. You can hear the latch move and the motor for the liftgate run, but it doesn't move the door either up or down any more. The gas struts are only 2 years old and are holding the door up fine once opened manually.
Update: Ordered the Dorman plastic replacement gear for the actuator from Amazon and will put it in later this week.
Update: Ordered the Dorman plastic replacement gear for the actuator from Amazon and will put it in later this week.
Last edited:
iamdub
Full Access Member
Test fit my new spark plug wires that were delivered today.
They were a $42 Amazon Warehouse Deal, listed as new and in the original, but damaged box. The box looked to have taken a razor blade to one side and was crushed a little on the opposite side:
I closely inspected all the wires and boots and found no damage. The warranty paper and pouch of dielectric grease was unscathed as well:
Excited to have new OE wires that were blue, I went out to compare them and that's when I realized they were different:
The overall length is only slightly shorter. It looks like it's stretched tight in this pic, but it's really not. Honestly, I'd run 'em as-is. But, I'll at least investigate lowering the coil packs. If it's just a matter of drilling some holes in the brackets 1/2" or so higher, I'll likely do it. It'll force me to clean and paint the brackets and maybe even wipe the coils clean:
For a set of OE wires at half price, I'm happy. No, they're not 20mm, .0001 ohm, plutonium core "race" wires. Running the part number on the wire itself, they're stock for a C6 ZR1. If they'll light off a supercharged 6.2 to 6,500 RPM, they'll do fine on my timid POS.
They were a $42 Amazon Warehouse Deal, listed as new and in the original, but damaged box. The box looked to have taken a razor blade to one side and was crushed a little on the opposite side:
I closely inspected all the wires and boots and found no damage. The warranty paper and pouch of dielectric grease was unscathed as well:
Excited to have new OE wires that were blue, I went out to compare them and that's when I realized they were different:
The overall length is only slightly shorter. It looks like it's stretched tight in this pic, but it's really not. Honestly, I'd run 'em as-is. But, I'll at least investigate lowering the coil packs. If it's just a matter of drilling some holes in the brackets 1/2" or so higher, I'll likely do it. It'll force me to clean and paint the brackets and maybe even wipe the coils clean:
For a set of OE wires at half price, I'm happy. No, they're not 20mm, .0001 ohm, plutonium core "race" wires. Running the part number on the wire itself, they're stock for a C6 ZR1. If they'll light off a supercharged 6.2 to 6,500 RPM, they'll do fine on my timid POS.
gooffeyguy
Tom
What were the red wires on there?
iamdub
Full Access Member
Stock ACDelco. Possibly original.
I never bothered to measure the ohms and I don't have misfires. But I don't know how old they are and red isn't my color.
You can see ACDelco and their symbol (resistor?) on the wire in this pic:
gooffeyguy
Tom
Interesting. I like the 90* boots on the spark plug side of the red ones. Mine are OE and are black, but are straight like your blue ones, maybe a tad longer.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Are your wires straight or have slack to be a little curved, like the red ones in my pic? There are so many variations for the truck wires that seem to have no real significance. I can see a difference in the LS9 wires versus the truck wires. But why would two Gen IV engines have different wires, ya know?
I actually kinda like them blue wires being pulled straight from an aesthetics standpoint.
