Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

Sitting here watching youtube...
Made me think of the massive snap ring pliers needed to get the rear support removed.

Example vid:

So the yellow ones like he uses, i found them new for about $190 after tax...

Then there is this blue set sold as "custom made"

Those can be had for about $130

Me, figuring I'll be doing this once, unless i screw up that is, i got the blue ones.

First thing i noticed while using the blue ones, they painted them with out using any primer.
Meaning paint chips and flakes off.

Before i even allowed them in my transmission i took some carb cleaner and removed the paint on the end, and just above the hinge point.

Then the next issue.
The stupid curve of the handles is too wide and low.

Makes it slightly challenging to get them wide enough to start the snap ring out.

And then finally, the ends of the pliers need to be angled in more to really grab the snap ring.

I tried to use a file to cut a notch in the pins on the end, but they are properly hardened and i couldn't scratch them.

So that's a plus for them.

Before reinstall, I'm planning to break out some air tools to properly notch those damn things.

I'm also thinking about tossing them into my blasting cabinet to get all of that ****** paint off.

I also think if i took off a little metal where the handles catch the case, they would work much better.

But in the end, these are really just a single use to me.
So it's probably good enough.

Really comes down to how bored i get this weekend since I'm still waiting on parts.

I'll get some pictures here soon, I'll also touch on the pump assembly when it comes time.

For now everything is in boxes to stay nice and clean before final assembly.


Also, incase anyone is wondering.
I'm enjoying every moment of this.

But not counting the credit card bill... lol

 

[pwtr02ss]

Sitting here watching youtube...
Made me think of the massive snap ring pliers needed to get the rear support removed.

Example vid:

So the yellow ones like he uses, i found them new for about $190 after tax...

Then there is this blue set sold as "custom made"

Those can be had for about $130

Me, figuring I'll be doing this once, unless i screw up that is, i got the blue ones.

First thing i noticed while using the blue ones, they painted them with out using any primer.
Meaning paint chips and flakes off.

Before i even allowed them in my transmission i took some carb cleaner and removed the paint on the end, and just above the hinge point.

Then the next issue.
The stupid curve of the handles is too wide and low.

Makes it slightly challenging to get them wide enough to start the snap ring out.

And then finally, the ends of the pliers need to be angled in more to really grab the snap ring.

I tried to use a file to cut a notch in the pins on the end, but they are properly hardened and i couldn't scratch them.

So that's a plus for them.

Before reinstall, I'm planning to break out some air tools to properly notch those damn things.

I'm also thinking about tossing them into my blasting cabinet to get all of that ****** paint off.

I also think if i took off a little metal where the handles catch the case, they would work much better.

But in the end, these are really just a single use to me.
So it's probably good enough.

Really comes down to how bored i get this weekend since I'm still waiting on parts.

I'll get some pictures here soon, I'll also touch on the pump assembly when it comes time.

For now everything is in boxes to stay nice and clean before final assembly.


Also, incase anyone is wondering.
I'm enjoying every moment of this.

But not counting the credit card bill... lol

I watched that video to the point of being disassembled and explaining the sub components.

Question, the large snap ring seems like the snap rings in the 4L60 that you remove with a plan ol flat head screw driver, working your way around the case. Being as you've done both now, is that snap ring just super stiff and thats why you need those pliers?

Thanks for linking the video btw. That looks VERY straight forward. Interesting how things are different between between the two.

 

[Just Fishing]

I watched that video to the point of being disassembled and explaining the sub components.

Question, the large snap ring seems like the snap rings in the 4L60 that you remove with a plan ol flat head screw driver, working your way around the case. Being as you've done both now, is that snap ring just super stiff and thats why you need those pliers?

Thanks for linking the video btw. That looks VERY straight forward. Interesting how things are different between between the two.

Yeah, super stiff lots of grunting.

For the 4l60, i used a medium sized duck bill looking pliers to get the snap ring out.
I modified that set to grab better too.

This snap ring is a different ball game.

But i didn't even try using a smaller set, after watching lots of vids on the subject, i went straight to a large set.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Yeah, super stiff lots of grunting.

For the 4l60, i used a medium sized duck bill looking pliers to get the snap ring out.
I modified that set to grab better too.

This snap ring is a different ball game.

But i didn't even try using a smaller set, after watching lots of vids on the subject, i went straight to a large set.

Thank you sir

 

[Just Fishing]

Thank you sir

If you ever decide to do this, I'll probably be willing to sell off my pliers.
I'm probably going to modify my set so they work better, so assuming I don't ruin them they will be available.

 

[Just Fishing]

last night i finally opened the box of lower block seals i bought a month ago to get the rear main seal installed into the rear cover.

Ran into a brown colored one?!
last time this was black.

It was also missing the "this side out" marking, so i had to go confirm on the last rear main to confirm it's direction.

I also noticed it was maybe a tad larger than the last one, pretty hard to get in there.
Last one was super easy.

I'm thinking i got some old stock from summit, but hopefully they didn't replace it due to leaking issues...

 

[pwtr02ss]

last night i finally opened the box of lower block seals i bought a month ago to get the rear main seal installed into the rear cover.

Ran into a brown colored one?!
last time this was black.

It was also missing the "this side out" marking, so i had to go confirm on the last rear main to confirm it's direction.

I also noticed it was maybe a tad larger than the last one, pretty hard to get in there.
Last one was super easy.

View attachment 366455

I'm thinking i got some old stock from summit, but hopefully they didn't replace it due to leaking issues...

Mine was black...

Do you have the alignment tools for the covers?

 

[Just Fishing]

Mine was black...

Do you have the alignment tools for the covers?

talking about the pump cover?

If yes,
then yes, I have one for a 4l60.
I never used them before, but I was in a tool buying mood and it was cheap.

Since I'm not really in a hurry and I like to perfect things, I feel like I can align them better using my fingers.

So, I'll test it out with the old pump to see if it aligns better than I can with my own fingers or the same.

And the reviews for that alignment tool I have said they used it on a 6l80...

 

[pwtr02ss]

talking about the pump cover?

If yes,
then yes, I have one for a 4l60.
I never used them before, but I was in a tool buying mood and it was cheap.

Since I'm not really in a hurry and I like to perfect things, I feel like I can align them better using my fingers.

So, I'll test it out with the old pump to see if it aligns better than I can with my own fingers or the same.

And the reviews for that alignment tool I have said they used it on a 6l80...

I meant for the front and rear covers on the engine.

 

[Just Fishing]

And I did some tinkering with the tool tips via die grinder and cut off wheel.

This fits and holds the snap ring very well.

they were perfectly straight and polished before.
It probably would have worked to just rough them up and add a flat spot.

This is working much better.

 

[Just Fishing]

I meant for the front and rear covers on the engine.

Ah, and nope.
looking at the tool instructions, it falls under the same thing.
all about alignment with the back of the block.

I feel like I can get it perfect using my fingers...
I use the seal itself to center the cover, then fingers to confirm I have alignment.

For the front cover, I install the balancer far enough to engage with the seal.

 

[Just Fishing]

Last night, I used some engine degreaser and a toothbrush to clean up the empty case and removed the rear seal.

Once I have the seal kit on hand, I'll remove the parking prowl from the back of the case to reseal it.
(The rusty thing poking up from the back)

I have also had the combustion chambers soaking in ATF for a while now.
Last night I got the valves pretty clean using some fine scotch bright, then applied more atf.

I'm trying to not change the pretty cnc'd surface of the chamber at all.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Ah, and nope.
looking at the tool instructions, it falls under the same thing.
all about alignment with the back of the block.

I feel like I can get it perfect using my fingers...
I use the seal itself to center the cover, then fingers to confirm I have alignment.

For the front cover, I install the balancer far enough to engage with the seal.

The tools make it so much easier. You have to keep in mind the left/right movement. I wish you were closer, I have some id let you borrow. They are the "align-it" tools from sac city corvette. I bought the aluminum ones but the plastic ones work fine.

If you had no leaks before, I wouldn't sweat it.

 

[Just Fishing]

Last night I got my seal kit, pistons, and clutches.

Then I thought I might as well try disassembling the parking prowl thing and then toss in some new seals.
but there is this roll pin that I assumed would just slide out with some gentle pulling in order to remove the end.
Answer is nope!

I'll give it another try today to see if I can remove it without damaging anything.

and I decided to remove some casting trash from the case.
Mostly I hate sharp edges, oh so much I hate sharp edges.

And amazon never delivered my bushing tool last night like it said it would.
so now it says Monday...
It keeps happening... I'm getting annoyed with them.
I never know when they will be on time, or if they will just flat out fk me.

anyways,
Then my drum from summit, they sent it out of Texas via fedex.
Fedex is almost always unreliable.
My billet piston arrived nicely on time from the Nevada warehouse, so that's ready to rock.

I took my old drum and disassembled it to see what's in involved with the install of the new piston.
confirmed it's easy peasy.

When I did my 700r4 (aka early 4l60), I have a different style of spring compressor that locks into the drum.
That style didn't work too well with this.

While I do have an actual shop press, I don't have anything that would work well to compress the pistons with that.
So, I decided to try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D39B3XS

Out of the box it's a wonky thing.
looks like it's designed to sit inside of some stand or some nonsense.
What I did was to take some wood scrap that was used to assemble the GM crankshaft crate, and made my self a little stand that seems to work just fine.
I installed the wood blocks on top to protect the drums, and then used a piece of wood in the front to stable it, and to give me some place to extend the "holding" area.

What I ended up with,

Used that on the old drum that I'm replacing to test it, and it works great.
Down side is the little ribs in the middle don't seem to clearance the 4-5-6 hub shaft.
So, I'll probably take the little pushers and move them to the real press when the rest of the parts arrive.


Other option is I take my little assembly apart, then break out my air saw and make a little clearance for the 4-5-6 hub shaft to pass through it...
that thing zips through mild 1/4in steel like a hot knife through butter.

It will probably take me less time to do that vs setting up my real press.

 

[Just Fishing]

Another issue I ran into,
my ATSG manual says to always replace the Output carrier roller bearing when rebuilding.
That part number: 24224853

Pardon Our Interruption

www.summitracing.com

Reference to that pn was a little difficult to find, but i was able to locate it via a google search once i had the actual name of the planetary housing set.

I did some searching, and I didn't find it in stock anywhere.
seems to be on national backorder.
good news is mine is in actually really good condition, so it should be fine.
I'll just flush it out really well.

I also found it odd that it wasn't listed in the TranStar catalog.
I'll probably call them up next week just to confirm they don't have it.
It would be nice if I could just borrow the wife's car and head on into town.

 

[Just Fishing]

And last night i decided to start soaking my clutches while I wait for everything.
Got the bright idea to try using ziploc bags and atf to soak.
thinking it might save me some atf, or at a minimum keep it from being contaminated while it sits around.

I was planning to apply a vacuum to the bags, but it seems the bags are seeping a bit.
so, I'll probably move this to another container.

 

[Just Fishing]

New part arrived!

Starting disassembly of the 1-2-3-4 drum so I can toss the billet piston in there.

Clutches out, now to get the piston out of there...

Compressing the spring, little c clip is in the middle.

 

[Just Fishing]

Bonded piston has been removed,

Now to the old transmission pump for some air to pop the piston out.

New Fancy Sonnax billet piston.

 

[Just Fishing]

OEM vs Billet

Did some cleaning, looks like a CD Rom

All back together.

 

[Just Fishing]

Clutches oiled up and reinstalled.

Back to the old pump for some air checking!

In between this, I did some air checking and looking for any leaks.
everything went pretty well.

but one hiccup.

the new drum was totally dry.
and air checking the lower piston that i didn't disassemble, showed some slowness.
and it started hanging/binding up on me.

The part i installed was slick and fast..

So i did a total tear down of the drum after seeing if some transmission fluid would help it.

I ended up doing some light cleanup and replaced the OEM seals with the ones from my seal kit.
Once i had it all back together, the air checks went much better.

the image above is of the final air check where I'm happy with it.

I took hours detailing this out, and even did some deburring to ensure everything was perfect...
One drum done, and back to its box to keep it clean.