What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Doubeleive

Wes
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Video I saw had the Tech 2 reboot after the starter cranked. Even with the 12vDC cord plugged in, the Tech 2 tries to draw power from from the OBDII port first. As long as there was power detected from the OBDII port, it would not kick over to the 12VDC feed from the other power supply. The switched extender cuts the power coming through the OBDII port, but the rest of the data does its thing. Since the power is cut off from the port, the Tech 2 will run off the 12VDC supply.

This may only be with the clones... Maybe it was only an issue with older clones, that has been since resolved? The video was from 2020. Maybe the problem has been fixed by Vetronix already?

The guy in the video found that his rebooted when initiating the engine cranked over. The switch seemed to solve that. For about $11, i figured it would be good to have if it kept the tTech 2 from rebooting during a diagnostic session that requires starting the engine.

Here was the video...
my 1st guess is the 12v supply they were using was either not enough amperage or was defective or was not plugged into the correct place.
if you look on the tech2 on the bottom edge there is a power port plug, that is where you plug in a 12v dc power supply.
when I plug 12v dc to my clone tech2 in that location it does not reboot or shut off when the key is turned off or when the engine is started. I bought mine around 3 years ago.
 

MassHoe04

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my 1st guess is the 12v supply they were using was either not enough amperage or was defective or was not plugged into the correct place.
if you look on the tech2 on the bottom edge there is a power port plug, that is where you plug in a 12v dc power supply.
when I plug 12v dc to my clone tech2 in that location it does not reboot or shut off when the key is turned off or when the engine is started. I bought mine around 3 years ago.
Thanks! You are probably onto something with this.

The guy in the video had the 12VDC supply was plugged into the port on the cable...

20220215_114631.jpg


Not on the port on the bottom of the head unit...
20220215_114638.jpg


If using the port on the head unit prevents the voltage drop from causing a reboot when the engine cranks, then I might have wasted $11 on the Ebay switched extender.

Maybe mention of this in our discussions will actually save people from thinking they have to buy that cable.

Anybody want to buy an unused switched OBDII extender cable? LOL

Follow-up: Vetronix instruction book says 12VDC "To ensure proper ground, power tester through the DLC power jack, NOT the power jack on the Tech 2". They are referring to the port on the cable for proper ground... However, that is showing the 12V power being fed from the 12V cigarette lighter power cord. Use of the AC to 12VDC power supply would be properly grounded (one would expect) at the wall outlet, so it can feed directly to the power port on the bottom of the Tech 2 device.
 
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tRidiot

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Thanks! You are probably onto something with this.

The guy in the video had the 12VDC supply was plugged into the port on the cable...

View attachment 363289

Not on the port on the bottom of the head unit...
View attachment 363290

If using the port on the head unit prevents the voltage drop from causing a reboot when the engine cranks, then I might have wasted $11 on the Ebay switched extender.

Maybe mention of this in our discussions will actually save people from thinking they have to buy that cable.

Anybody want to buy an unused switched OBDII extender cable? LOL

**** - I just bought one, too. <sigh>
 

Doubeleive

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Thanks! You are probably onto something with this.

The guy in the video had the 12VDC supply was plugged into the port on the cable...

View attachment 363289

Not on the port on the bottom of the head unit...
View attachment 363290

If using the port on the head unit prevents the voltage drop from causing a reboot when the engine cranks, then I might have wasted $11 on the Ebay switched extender.

Maybe mention of this in our discussions will actually save people from thinking they have to buy that cable.

Anybody want to buy an unused switched OBDII extender cable? LOL

Follow-up: Vetronix instruction book says 12VDC "To ensure proper ground, power tester through the DLC power jack, NOT the power jack on the Tech 2". They are referring to the port on the cable for proper ground... However, that is showing the 12V power being fed from the 12V cigarette lighter power cord. Use of the AC to 12VDC power supply would be properly grounded (one would expect) at the wall outlet, so it can feed directly to the power port on the bottom of the Tech 2 device.
that's also assuming a properly working tech2, the clones have the voltage defect, using a dc power supply is a easy work around, you really only need it if you are programming a module or doing a evap test, etc normally just for reading codes or troubleshooting it's no dig deal.
 

Fless

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I am thinking that there is an upgraded power module for inside the Tech 2, too. I don't have time to look for it right now, but I think Dr. Shock may have a video on what to buy and how to replace it. Might be someone else, though.
 

MassHoe04

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that's also assuming a properly working tech2, the clones have the voltage defect, using a dc power supply is a easy work around, you really only need it if you are programming a module or doing a evap test, etc normally just for reading codes or troubleshooting it's no dig deal.
Sorry! I didn't intend on hijacking the "What I did to my NBS today" thread and turn it into a Tech 2 discussion!

Maybe the guy on Youtube didn't actually follow the directions. He plugged the AC-DC power supply into the DLC, where the Vetronix manual shows use of that power source from the house goes direct to the port on the Tech2 instead of the port on the DLC cable.
Vetronix did want direct 12V power from the car to go into the port on the DLC, but the house one goes to the Tech 2.

At some point, I will be using it for an EVAP test. So, not rebooting will be nice. Probably good to go, if I just plug into the port on the Tech 2 instead of the one on the DLC cable.
 

Doubeleive

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I am thinking that there is an upgraded power module for inside the Tech 2, too. I don't have time to look for it right now, but I think Dr. Shock may have a video on what to buy and how to replace it. Might be someone else, though.
there is, but to replace it involves a lot of work I ordered one and it's still sitting here untouched. lol
 

Doubeleive

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Sorry! I didn't intend on hijacking the "What I did to my NBS today" thread and turn it into a Tech 2 discussion!

Maybe the guy on Youtube didn't actually follow the directions. He plugged the AC-DC power supply into the DLC, where the Vetronix manual shows use of that power source from the house goes direct to the port on the Tech2 instead of the port on the DLC cable.
Vetronix did want direct 12V power from the car to go into the port on the DLC, but the house one goes to the Tech 2.

At some point, I will be using it for an EVAP test. So, not rebooting will be nice. Probably good to go, if I just plug into the port on the Tech 2 instead of the one on the DLC cable.
that evap test is difficult, for me it was atleast, involves timing things just right and holding idle at 2k for a period of time I gave up trying to do it pita.... if you even go off the idle parameters a hair it fails to complete the test and then you have to start over and by then it's not cold enough so you have to wait, grrrr
it was easier to just replace the part, problem solved
 

Alex_M

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Did the high beam/low beam mod today, grounded the yellow wire on each low beam with a nice little heat shrink eyelet. That should be a major improvement.

Also spray bombed a crappy spare grill I had (off a parts truck that the PO had spray bombed the whole truck.... poorly) to see if I want to switch over to the black grill. Thinking I'll like it. We'll see once it dries.

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Sam Harris

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Same as mine. I want to say model year 2003 was when they ditched stuff as well as changed the communication bus for the various modules.
Mine’s a 2003, and I have the light-up markers in all 4 doors, but no footwell lights. -That was I believe my very first “mod”, after replacing some other items like broken OEM headlights.
 

Sam Harris

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Did the high beam/low beam mod today, grounded the yellow wire on each low beam with a nice little heat shrink eyelet. That should be a major improvement.

Also spray bombed a crappy spare grill I had (off a parts truck that the PO had spray bombed the whole truck.... poorly) to see if I want to switch over to the black grill. Thinking I'll like it. We'll see once it dries.

View attachment 363362

View attachment 363363

View attachment 363364
What’s the “high beam / low beam mod”? I took the easy route, and installed a fleece all-on module, which allows lows, highs, and fogs to all be on at once when using high beams. Is that what you did?
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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What’s the “high beam / low beam mod”? I took the easy route, and installed a fleece all-on module, which allows lows, highs, and fogs to all be on at once when using high beams. Is that what you did?
grounding the low beam to the body allows the highs and lows to remain on when the highs are switched on, easy mod for 00-02, not sure if it works on 03-06 they made some changes. I had my 00 modded for 6 high plus 2 more fogs I added for a 8 high lol
 

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