What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Charlie207

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K5L is the top end cooling system that includes 700w fan motors instead of the usual 500w, which makes it better for pulling a heavy trailer in hot weather, etc. Not all towing packages come with the K5L. For example, my 2012 XL Denali has the trailering package so it has the integrated brake controller and both engine oil and transmission fluid coolers, but it doesn't have the K5L package so it didn't come with the 700w fans.

Here is my build sheet, are there any other goodies I should be aware of?

8fnyXWD.jpg
 

swathdiver

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Here is my build sheet, are there any other goodies I should be aware of?

View attachment 362780
That rig is set up for maximum towing, G80 locker, 3.42 gears and the K5L HD cooling package. KC4 is for the engine oil cooler, KNP for the external transmission cooler.

You have the iron block LMG 5.3 motor, the MP3023 transfer case. Plain jane suspension ZW7, just regular shocks and springs, no auto level or air compressors or air shocks.

6PB and 7PB are your front strut codes.

Tow rating is 8,200 pounds, GCWR is 14,000 pounds. GM did something weird or made an error, my 2009s WD hitch rating is 1000 pounds. From 2010-2012, it was increased to 1100 pounds and back to 1000 for the last two years. I've seen no physical difference but am no expert either, might have missed a reinforcement or something.
 

Charlie207

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You can get a build sheet from GM for free, but looks like yours is nicely equipped. https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/check-lookup/1GKS2CE01ER132205

Thanks for sharing, I was searching on several other VIN-decoder websites, and they all seemed to have incorrect info. EX: the others said I had the 3.08 rear end. It's ironic because basically any website that ends in xxxxz.com reminds me of the shady places I allegedly checked out back when dial-up modems were the norm.
 

Charlie207

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That rig is set up for maximum towing, G80 locker, 3.42 gears and the K5L HD cooling package. KC4 is for the engine oil cooler, KNP for the external transmission cooler.

You have the iron block LMG 5.3 motor, the MP3023 transfer case. Plain jane suspension ZW7, just regular shocks and springs, no auto level or air compressors or air shocks.

6PB and 7PB are your front strut codes.

Tow rating is 8,200 pounds, GCWR is 14,000 pounds. GM did something weird or made an error, my 2009s WD hitch rating is 1000 pounds. From 2010-2012, it was increased to 1100 pounds and back to 1000 for the last two years. I've seen no physical difference but am no expert either, might have missed a reinforcement or something.

I did notice that the rear shocks have been upgraded to Bilstein 5100s, and still look/feel to be in good shape. The front struts are generic units, and I'll upgrade those to 5100s whenever they fail. They feel pretty good though, so I hope it takes a while.
 

pwtr02ss

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Looking into brake pad replacement for my Yukon ( 2007 4WD ) Has original brakes still on it ( just 75K miles )

Heard a slight grind noise the 1st time yesterday on braking from the front right side, was slow near stop speed so that is why I heard it so easily.

What is the best reccommended replacement Brake pads both front and rear ( unsure if both front & rear needed or is rotors are needed as well ) Hopefully calipers are fine. I know brakes can go from a $200 job to over a $1000 depending on what needs done to correct.

Looking for best bang for my buck. great pads for a fair price ( and all other reccomendations also - rotors - calipers etc etc ) Don't need any space shuttle rated parts as I drive like an old man ( I am - hahaha )

My spidey sense tells me brake pads are around $50ish front and or rear and rotors are around $85ish ea. Am I still in the know or has the Rona doubled car part prices along with everything else.

getting an inspection / estimate done at a local garage and likely will just buy the parts myself and 'phone a friend' and call in a favor as I know alot of folks that do alot of things. I could do myself, but prefer to have backup and I am the wingman - brother in law helper ( hahaha )

Pic of what I found on Amazon with a 20 sec search ( Amazon top rated or whatever they call it )

thanks in advance to everyone for suggestions, is much appreciated.

View attachment 362701
I just put the bosch pads on the camaro with Raybestos E3 coated rotors. I haven't really driven it enough to know the longevity but I did think it was cool the pads came wrapped in a blue shop cloth. Thats a nice touch IMO.

As others have said, get a ceramic pad and you should be fine.
 

the_tool_man

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Changed the oil and emptied the catch can this past weekend. There were about 4oz of "chocolate milk" in it, which I assume is a mix of condensate (from cold weather) and oil vapor.

What was the consensus on cleaning the throttle body? Disconnect battery or no? Mine needs cleaning, I think.
 

George B

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Changed the oil and emptied the catch can this past weekend. There were about 4oz of "chocolate milk" in it, which I assume is a mix of condensate (from cold weather) and oil vapor.

What was the consensus on cleaning the throttle body? Disconnect battery or no? Mine needs cleaning, I think.
I would disconnect the battery and take the TB off. I just removed mine, cleaned it, replaced the TPS and reinstalled it. It did not require a relearn and runs good.
 

Just Fishing

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Got my new crank today.
Met the ups guy this time, i don't want to see any dropping on my front door step...

So far the crank looks perfect, no impacts to the reluctor wheel this time!
I'll toss it into the old block and give it a spin later before i call it gtg.
 

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