pwtr02ss
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X2. Especially the fitment...i like your style...and fitment
but i dont really like the black, personal preference
2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe
- Thread starter Dantheman1540
- Start date
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Dantheman1540
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I might try to trade for the machined face version. Need to list my LTZ20s as well, any idea how much they are worth?
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pwtr02ss
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No idea but I think the machined face would look better. Stephs car has black wheels with machined face from the factory. I don't hate it
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Dantheman1540
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I usually hate black with machined faces even more than all black but I find those to be pretty hot for some reason. Also gonna see how much it would cost to powder my bumpers and roof rack
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Dantheman1540
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well I had my first rubbing event today while going through a mild ditch in my friends front yard. Pretty sure it’s the back of the front tires rubbing lightly on the fender liners. Might try adding the 1/4” spacers I had on with the LTZ20s and see if it helps but I kinda doubt it.
Talked to my powder coater today and he quoted me $125 per bumper and $100 for the roof rails. So $350 and everything with be black except the chrome bar across the grill.
Talked to my powder coater today and he quoted me $125 per bumper and $100 for the roof rails. So $350 and everything with be black except the chrome bar across the grill.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Try a heat gun…
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Dantheman1540
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That’s a really good idea I might be able to heat and mold them back a little!
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I have had to on mine to clear my 22”s
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Dantheman1540
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I was contemplating cutting some of the liner out or making one from metal which would be loud and awful. Not sure why I didn’t think of the heat gun but I’ll probably try it tomorrow thank you!
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I found if you heat until the plastic just gets a little shiny it is workable. The trick is to hold it in place. Like wedge something in there and let it cool.
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Dantheman1540
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Good to know, I’ll post my progress tomorrow! I really want to do everything I can to keep the 33s because they ride exceptionally well.
iamdub
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I don't know how I missed these replies.
Anyway, it has the provisions for a roof rack but no actual rack/crossbars and we're not getting them. lol
Doesn't matter, anyway. That trip came and went. Didn't feel like much of a vacation at all. Was nothing but go go go, adhering to everyone else's schedules (that always changed), trying to be everywhere at once, etc.
I think, next time, we're just gonna sneak away. We'll just show up at grandma's house and tell her not to tell anyone.
iamdub
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Being lowered, I clearanced those liners as much as I could. I used my heat gun to soften the plastic enough to not only bend it but also stretch it. I used a rubber mallet to push the plastic tight against the metal behind it and hold it. I tilted and rolled the mallet around to press a wider area into the contours of the metal and cooled the liner with the Dirty Harry blow gun to cool it into position.
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Dantheman1540
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That’s not a vacation at all! I did till have the bar I kept it and will probably have it a few more months before I make another scrap trip invade you do come back down in secret
I’m just about to go do this so glad to hear it’s worked for many people. Did it fully fix the rub or just help a little?
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Dantheman1540
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Didn’t need to do as much as I thought. On the driver side it was barely rubbing a small spot that is unable to really be pushed in because of the parking brake cable behind it. So I pulled the cable in as much as possible with a zip tie which wasn’t much tbh. Then I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the liner to zip tie it and pull the liner itself back into the body mount. I did hear and push just a little bit since the parking cable is there it’s not much use. In the front of the driver side it was lightly rubbing on a small piece that kinda hangs down so it got snipped although I think it needs another inch of trimming.
On the passenger side it had barely rubbed at all and I think one simple zip tie may have it fixed.
If these fixes don’t work I’ll get more aggressive with all options.
On the passenger side it had barely rubbed at all and I think one simple zip tie may have it fixed.
If these fixes don’t work I’ll get more aggressive with all options.
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Dantheman1540
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Dantheman1540
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Got the wash and wax done but it got dark before we finished so this is all the pics I got. Makes me want a foam cannon so badly!
Also I think I found a PDR guy to pull the rear quarter dent and another very small dent on the fender. Will go see him Monday if everything goes as planned.
Also I think I found a PDR guy to pull the rear quarter dent and another very small dent on the fender. Will go see him Monday if everything goes as planned.
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randeez
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i dont think theyre interchangeable...or some early years 07-08 can be swapped in place of a ls2 but later years i think are different.
what exactly are you having problems with? any codes associated? usually REP will come from a mismatch of commanded position and actual position. engine off scanning does the tb move smoothly from close to wide open?
mine for whatever reason always shows a choppy line while scanning...but when you go back into the log it shows smooth - so i dont know wtf. you can also give it a larger error window if you think boost is pushing/holding it open
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Dantheman1540
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I drove a bunch today after slapping it on and I haven’t had an issue. I have a TBSS 4bolt intake and X link so it shouldn’t be an issue. The first LS2 which was my “nice one” I bought new several years ago when I first put the blower on my RCSB. It’s never skipped a beat until a few weeks ago it was going into REP within 1 minute of driving and after clearing the code or shutting the truck off and unplugging and replugging in the harness it would just repeat REP again and again to the point it was totally undriveable. I swapped X links with my spare and even reinspected the grounds on the back of the motor but nothing helped.
I swapped on my “crappy” LS2 which is an eBay special that unfortunately has the connector clip tab broken off so the connector doesn’t stay tight. It was tossed into the spare a few years ago after my buddy LS electronic throttle swapped his rotary rx7 (before rob dahm did). Anyway the Haltech ECU is so sensitive and the rotary vibes so much that it would REP very often and was undriveable. That TB works great when the connector is zip tied just right to hold it tight but every once in awhile like once a week I’ll hit a bump just right and it will REP and I’ll have to adjust the zip tie to make it stop. Total PITA!
It's easy to add the trans temp gauge to your cluster. No need to spend the big bucks on another cluster. These guys do it for 95.00 and return shipping is included with UPS. https://www.gmgaugerepair.com/chevr...-repair/add-a-transmission-temperature-gauge/
