What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Alex_M

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Yup. The Grade 5 bolts themselves aren't so much the problem. It's that they're in single shear and doing double duty with keeping that fabricated lower half straight while clamping it all together. Most of the loads are linear with the shocks compressing and extending, but it's not a perfectly straight action. They're basically relying on 1/4" of thread and the aluminum to hold straight. A few sharp bumps could fold it.

A quick and easy fix would be to replace the spacers with thicker sleeves welded to those 1/4" plates and use nuts instead of the plate. I'd make the sleeves out of 1" solid round stock with a 3/8" hole through the center to maximize load plane and support for the bolt. I'd also top it off with Grade 8 hardware. Quite a similar repair/upgrade as what @Rocket Man did for his tie rod end spacers.

The lower mount is also being held straight by the support of the mount clamping into the original bushing in the control arm. That does allow a certain degree of flexibility, but also provides a good amount of support.

Of course, if the bolts do end up starting to loosen off I will just torque them back down and weld them into the plate from the bottom since this isn't a permanent situation.
 

Walchit

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Sawzall? Oof. I would say I am in a mid-rust zone and I was able to get my upper and lower control arms out with just a prybar.

I do remember it being a little tricky with the upper control arm bolts because they are slotted for the camber alignment pins.

I also marked where those pins were so I could put it all back together and not screw my alignment. Which it did and my alignment was within proper range when I was finished.

FYI this is what I used for measuring my camber:
I was bashing them with a decent sledge and they wouldn't budge, had to cut 3 out of the 4, then stripped out one of the new bolts and had to cut the nut off of it, lol. I saw a guy on YouTube using an air hammer, but I can't really afford one right now. I was gonna get the more expensive version of that camber tool, but opted for an alignment instead, I'm probably gonna buy one instead of taking the Ford 500 for an alignment.
 

Tonyrodz

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I was bashing them with a decent sledge and they wouldn't budge, had to cut 3 out of the 4, then stripped out one of the new bolts and had to cut the nut off of it, lol. I saw a guy on YouTube using an air hammer, but I can't really afford one right now. I was gonna get the more expensive version of that camber tool, but opted for an alignment instead, I'm probably gonna buy one instead of taking the Ford 500 for an alignment.
Think I paid under $30 for an air hammer at HF. Got my rusted hub off in seconds after beating the crap out of it.
 

Logan5

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looks like im doing a fuel pump, today or tomorrow. todays gonna suck cause the ground is all wet and its like misting out still.......on the plus side. the tank is almost on E lol
Oh fun. I did mine last year, and while it was a poopy job it wasn't that terrible. I checked the pump before I left the store and good thing too because they gave me the wrong one. The guy asked me if it was the "Z" model and I having a Z71 figures that is what he is asking and say yes.

But.... he was asking about a "Z" in the VIN and that designates the flex fuel model which is a different fuel pump.
 

Tonyrodz

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looks like im doing a fuel pump, today or tomorrow. todays gonna suck cause the ground is all wet and its like misting out still.......on the plus side. the tank is almost on E lol
Not here @Scottydoggs
 

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Logan5

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Got an evap code, p0455. Checked the vent valve first, that was good. Checked the purge valve next, that was the culprit. Prolly should have done the purge valve first since that one is easier.

And if you are wondering, yes I do put my lips on the valves and blow through them after applying a 12V signal to test.

The purge valve I took off looks fairly new. Definitely not OEM. Says "china" right on it.

Gonna bite the bullet and go pay autozone $45 for a new one because I want to finish this right now.
 

Doubeleive

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Get it done yet?:popcorn:
in another thread he said he put gas in it and fired right up, fuel gauge might have been off, I figure it's 50/50 chance
my neighbors tahoe had sat a few months and then wouldn't start I put my fuel pressure tester on it and it had 0, banged on the tank and it started working and has been fine since that was about a year ago.
 

Scottydoggs

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Get it done yet?:popcorn:
not yet. turned out to be a bad sending unit. it was pretty cold this morning so im thinking what if its actually out of gas? whats two gallons gonna hurt, put 2 in there and it fired right up. at least now im not stuck doing it in a parking lot. ill take it to a friends house where theres more tools at hand, and a bathroom lol
 

Fless

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not yet. turned out to be a bad sending unit. it was pretty cold this morning so im thinking what if its actually out of gas? whats two gallons gonna hurt, put 2 in there and it fired right up. at least now im not stuck doing it in a parking lot. ill take it to a friends house where theres more tools at hand, and a bathroom lol

It would be interesting to compare your pre-fix fuel level with the level after the pump is changed out.
 

iamdub

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It would be interesting to compare your pre-fix fuel level with the level after the pump is changed out.

That's when I found out mine was bad! According to the gauge, I had ~1/4 tank when I drove it in the shop to replace the pump. Afterward, I had ~1/16 tank. Ohmed out the sensor and it went to infinity at 1/4 tank and anywhere below. My Tahoe was stumbling from a weak fuel supply, but that was because it was literally out of fuel and not from a failing pump.
 
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Rocket Man

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That's when I found out mine was bad! According to the gauge, I had ~1/4 tank when I drove it in the shop to replace the pump. Afterward, I had ~1/16 tank. Ohmed out the sensor and it went to infinity at 1/4 tank and anywhere below. My Tahoe was stumbling from a weak fuel supply, but that was because it was literally out of fuel and not from a failing pump.
There’s so many components to the fuel pump module and no easy way to test them individually- FPR, level sensor, filter, pump- so it’s easier to just replace the whole shebang once that tank is dropped. Kinda crazy.
 

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