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Dantheman1540
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No tech 2, what's the difference between a CASE relearn and crank relearn?
2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe
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No tech 2, what's the difference between a CASE relearn and crank relearn?
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Dantheman1540
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Looks like they are interchangeable terms, also looks like you must have the vehicle in park/neutral. That's not good because my ECU thinks the truck is always in 3rd gear lol.
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Dantheman1540
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Got the steering wheel button harness installed and now my DIC works! 
A good tech tip for getting the steering wheel buttons out is to take a pencil with an eraser and use the eraser end to push the button out from the backside, obviously not pushing on the portion of the button with the pins for the connector. In all the videos I watched people were prying them out from the front which puts a lot of unnecessary strain on the pretty face of the wheel.
A good tech tip for getting the steering wheel buttons out is to take a pencil with an eraser and use the eraser end to push the button out from the backside, obviously not pushing on the portion of the button with the pins for the connector. In all the videos I watched people were prying them out from the front which puts a lot of unnecessary strain on the pretty face of the wheel.
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Dantheman1540
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Removed and replaced the pump/bucket with a Delphi unit but I dint think it solved the problem, I’m getting the same fuel pressure readings of 50psi when primed then dropping to 40psi. I’ll know more when it sits a bit and then I try to start it again.
Got the airbag back in and wow these LEDs are bright, maybe a little too bright tbh, the steering wheel buttons are so bright it’s like I’m whirling a glow stick when doing tight maneuvers, I’ll probably run with the dimmer at half to avoid going blind. Seriously they look great but are a tad bright for me.
Super pumped on the DIC working! Never realized I’d have the MPG monitors, range, and other features like owning something not old lol.
Got the airbag back in and wow these LEDs are bright, maybe a little too bright tbh, the steering wheel buttons are so bright it’s like I’m whirling a glow stick when doing tight maneuvers, I’ll probably run with the dimmer at half to avoid going blind. Seriously they look great but are a tad bright for me.
Super pumped on the DIC working! Never realized I’d have the MPG monitors, range, and other features like owning something not old lol.
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Yeah those buttons look a bit much lol.
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Dantheman1540
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Their so white they think ketchup is spicy.
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Dantheman1540
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Pulled the intake to inspect stuff and noticed what seems to be excessive oil around the intake ports and valley. Going to order a new valley gasket along with intake gaskets and install new injector Orings while I’m there. Contemplating running a second $20 catch can in line with the current $20 catch can to reduce the oil going into the intake because I can see the line going to the intake from the catch can is wet and oily inside.
Pulled the plugs as well and they all look good except #6 was kinda oily around the threads and all of the gaps had opened significantly to around .060 or more which could have significant effects on startup! I typically have them at .044ish, so I closed them back down.
Lastly my dumbass bumped the heater connector at the firewall and of course it broke so I gotta find the best solution for that. I would love a metal T with hose clamps if anyone has a link to something.
Pulled the plugs as well and they all look good except #6 was kinda oily around the threads and all of the gaps had opened significantly to around .060 or more which could have significant effects on startup! I typically have them at .044ish, so I closed them back down.
Lastly my dumbass bumped the heater connector at the firewall and of course it broke so I gotta find the best solution for that. I would love a metal T with hose clamps if anyone has a link to something.
Just put an OEM T on there and you’ll be good for another 150k. That one looks original.
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Dantheman1540
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Is this Dorman replacement considered OEM or should I get the clear/white colored replacement?
Also ordered one of these other cheap cans to run in-line and possibly run as vent to atmosphere.
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No do NOT buy a Dorman. Replace both of them also. GM Genuine 15055342 and 15055343 , one is black and one is white. The angle on them is slightly different from each other.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
GM still sells them and they're very reasonable in price. Broke mine a few years ago leaning on it trying to fix something else. Of course coolant was hot, and it actually gave me blisters on my hand. SWEET
^^^ These are what I bought.
iamdub
Full Access Member
+1 on OEM ONLY for the plastic connectors. Also, since you asked, these are what I'm running: https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/cooling-systems/products/traditional-hose-tee
iamdub
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I don't think you can vent the PCV system to atmosphere. Might be detected as a vacuum leak.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Which size specifically did you get? Straight PnP?
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Dantheman1540
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Thank you for the part numbers! The search bar really sucks I tried multiple ways to search for info on them because I know I've seen it on here 20 times yet came up with nothing relevant.
Ouchy! The plastic when it breaks is sharp as crap too.GM still sells them and they're very reasonable in price. Broke mine a few years ago leaning on it trying to fix something else. Of course coolant was hot, and it actually gave me blisters on my hand. SWEET
What size 5/8 on all 3 right? I may just get some brass Ts and hose clamps since I already replaced the lines with nice silicon hoses.
Lots of high-dollar cans are set up to VTA like the mighty mouse I have for my RCSB. The downside is you can often smell oil when parked and sometimes when driving and that gets old fast. I'll try it tho and see how I like it, if I notice a vacuum leak in a log ill report back. Either way I don't want oil in my intake anymore so something needs to be done.
iamdub
Full Access Member
All three ends are different sizes. 3/4" to 5/8" for the straight with a 1/2" coming off of that to go to the rear heater. Not PnP. Just like the Grüven ones, hoses and clamps are needed.
iamdub
Full Access Member
If they were the same size on all three, then nobody would've had to push so hard to have anyone make special Ts for our rigs. We'd all just go to Home Depot for brass 5/8" Ts or order up some aluminum or stainless ones off Amazon or somewhere.
I'm not 100% about NBS, but mine was 3/4" off the firewall, 5/8" to the water pump and 1/2" to the rear heater. So, when ordering from JTR/Stealth, "Size A" would be 3/4", "Size B" would be 1/2" and "Size C" would be 5/8".
As the others have said, the OEM plastic ones are fine. But, if you do a lot of work in the area and are often at risk of cracking them, metal ones with hoses are much more forgiving. You'll just have to accept the aesthetics of multiple clamps in close proximity. I used constant tension clamps from GM, Honda and Ford (salvage yard digs) and positioned them all in line to look as clean as possible as well as easily accessible with long needle-nosed pliers.
The vacuum in the intake manifold is used to pull the crankcase air rather than just let the pressure that builds find its own way out through the available port(s). I suppose you could let it work like the old school engines and let it vent, but cap off the port in the intake manifold. You'd also have to cap off the port in the intake duct and put a catch can and breather on that passenger side because it will then work like the driver side and just be "another way out".
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Dantheman1540
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Yeah I figured they would be different, so dumb they did that! I ordered two from your link they look supernice! I know I'll bump plastic ones again and again so might as well buy once and cry oncee. Thank you for the link!
Same
