2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Depends...are are ya gunna duble clutch it like ya shud????

Duh!

Finally got some help on the AC issue. I went to start the truck earlier and IDK if I didn't turn the key enough or what but the truck almost started then didn't. Luckily after the second try it fired up like normal and I was off but with a check engine light. The code reads crank sensor, a misfire likly caused by the crank sensor and p0530 AC pressure sensor circuit A! P0530 is set to "NO MIL Light" so I never would see it unless I checked codes for something else, hopefully, I will find a frayed wire or something similar.

As far as the crank sensor code goes, I cleared it and I guess I'll see if it comes back on or not, if so that's not a big deal to replace.
 
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Dantheman1540

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crawled under the truck to look at the AC sensor wiring and noticed a few things. First was that one of the bolts holding the cross member that sits below the engine was finger loose. The only time I ever remember touching those was after I first bought the truck and noticed both of them were about to fall off loose. Probably gonna take one out and go get a slightly longer bolt with a nylon lock nut.

Second was that there was oil all over the rear passenger side of the motor almost as if it was leaking from the heads which wouldn’t make sense. Then I noticed the transmission vent was pointing right at that area and the vent line was no more than 3” long and caked in crud. I’m assuming since I recently changed its oil and filled it all the way up that it’s now venting more and blowing it right at the back of the motor.

So I ran a longer hose up into the engine bay by where the secondary battery tray would be. I stuck the hose end into a water bottle to see how much it vents over a few weeks and to decide if it’s worth a $20 catch can or not. It has one way valve but it’s caked in crap and not working correctly.

Then I drug a buddies wrecked car to his new house, glad I have the helped bags back in 20psi and it stays nice and level. The 4 wheeler was coming to help push the POS into his new garage since there’s a brake totally locked up.
 

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Rocket Man

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crawled under the truck to look at the AC sensor wiring and noticed a few things. First was that one of the bolts holding the cross member that sits below the engine was finger loose. The only time I ever remember touching those was after I first bought the truck and noticed both of them were about to fall off loose. Probably gonna take one out and go get a slightly longer bolt with a nylon lock nut.

Second was that there was oil all over the rear passenger side of the motor almost as if it was leaking from the heads which wouldn’t make sense. Then I noticed the transmission vent was pointing right at that area and the vent line was no more than 3” long and caked in crud. I’m assuming since I recently changed its oil and filled it all the way up that it’s now venting more and blowing it right at the back of the motor.

So I ran a longer hose up into the engine bay by where the secondary battery tray would be. I stuck the hose end into a water bottle to see how much it vents over a few weeks and to decide if it’s worth a $20 catch can or not. It has one way valve but it’s caked in crap and not working correctly.

Then I drug a buddies wrecked car to his new house, glad I have the helped bags back in 20psi and it stays nice and level. The 4 wheeler was coming to help push the POS into his new garage since there’s a brake totally locked up.
Did your buddy just wreck that Mustang?
 
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Did your buddy just wreck that Mustang?
No it was in spring IIRC, he was going way too fast in the rain on crappy tires and slid over a curb and through a giant power junction box at 60mph. It’s pretty jacked up, not sure why he didn’t want to claim insurance on it. I’d have let them total it and gotten a V8 model.
 
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Got the Tahoe back on the road for the first time in 2 weeks! Two weeks ago I pulled the headlight panel, rear wiper panel, and AC controls out to send off for white leds along with the wheel with buttons I bought.

Got it all back in and everything works except the wheel because I’m missing the button harness and didn’t realize it until I got it all together. So now I’m waiting until that harness comes in to put the airbag back in.

Also replaced the cam sensor that started acting up a day before I pulled everything apart and I thought it didn’t work at first. After I replaced it I cleared the codes and during the first start it took forever and then had the same cam sensor code. Let the truck sit a week and when I started it today it took awhile but when it started the engine code went away and has started a few times since perfectly normal.

Anyway no more Toyota DD I love that truck but it has a lot of issues for daily driving.
 
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Well, I think I officially have to total the Tahoe out. Driving to Lowes yesterday I noticed the unthinkable, my dash has started the crack life. Pretty bummed about it because while the dash wasn't that great to start with it didn't have any cracks and IDK what specifically would have caused this one. It didn't happen when I put the dash bezel back in, I think it happened while it was sitting for a day in the partial sun before I drove it again. Guess I'll have to move my phone mount over to cover it or get an old person carpet dash pad.

In other news today was my first time driving at night with the new white LEDs and omg they are bright! They are almost to the point where I want to dim them some. First time I've seen the AC controls light up since I've had the truck and boy oh boy I can't wait to see the steering wheel lit up.
 

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Rocket Man

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IDK what you did to that dash- never seen a NBS crack. Truck must be a real POS. And now you’re just gonna crash anyway with those bright @ss LED’s so might as well just give it to somebody that could use some of the parts.
 
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IDK what you did to that dash- never seen a NBS crack. Truck must be a real POS. And now you’re just gonna crash anyway with those bright @ss LED’s so might as well just give it to somebody that could use some of the parts.

I don't think I've ever seen one crack either. I'm **** about never putting anything on the dash too.

It is a POS about to roll over 275k!

Should be able to find another dash pad in a junkyard. They never crack lol.
I never realized they were replaceable, I thought the entire dash had to be removed which I'm not about to do.
And here I thought you were gonna volunteer to take that hoe off his hands…:p

He can't handle the POWA!
 
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It’s actually easy to pull the dash on these, maybe 30 minutes tops. Waaaaaay easier than the NNBS which are always cracked. Here’s a link to a how-to.

Whoa thats much easier than I expected! I had no idea it was that simple. I guess I never realized its in different pieces like that, I pulled a ranger dash out once and it was the whole shebang in one, not fun.
 

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Whoa thats much easier than I expected! I had no idea it was that simple. I guess I never realized its in different pieces like that, I pulled a ranger dash out once and it was the whole shebang in one, not fun.
Yep I’ve pulled and painted mine twice. Pretty simple. Even easy enough to do quickly at a wrecking yard, plus I’d feel good about a used one as opposed to a NNBS which would probably crack. I actually bought a NNBS one out of a Tahoe off marketplace for the interior swap in my Silverado. It lasted one summer and cracked in both the usual places so I just got done installing a new $600 one.
 
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Yep I’ve pulled and painted mine twice. Pretty simple. Even easy enough to do quickly at a wrecking yard, plus I’d feel good about a used one as opposed to a NNBS which would probably crack. I actually bought a NNBS one out of a Tahoe off marketplace for the interior swap in my Silverado. It lasted one summer and cracked in both the usual places so I just got done installing a new $600 one.
I actually remember reading that in the Beast thread now, ouch $600 for an NNBS dash that's rough, I hope it lasts a while.
Sucks about the dash, but the gauges look View attachment 353672
Thank you! Can't wait to get the wheel on and working with the DIC.
 
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Had another long start last night that resulted in a P0173 code pending and alone, no cam sensor code although it was the same symptom that caused me to replace the cam sensor. I'm wondering if my fuel pump is dying, I have no lean issues under throttle and actually logged data yesterday since it had been a while. The truck started perfectly fine this morning no hint of an issue and still no check engine light so IDK maybe a poltergeist.
 
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Ugg pretty sure my fuel pump is taking a crap, trucks not starting on the first key turn it just cranks and cranks but, if I recycle the key and immediately crank again it fires right up. No lean activity anywhere but it did have a P0173 code pending on one log but it went away on the next run. No other symptoms or codes and I checked all the plug wires to make sure they are tight and the intake connections to make sure they aren't loose or leaking.
 

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Ugg pretty sure my fuel pump is taking a crap, trucks not starting on the first key turn it just cranks and cranks but, if I recycle the key and immediately crank again it fires right up. No lean activity anywhere but it did have a P0173 code pending on one log but it went away on the next run. No other symptoms or codes and I checked all the plug wires to make sure they are tight and the intake connections to make sure they aren't loose or leaking.
My s10 did that. Pulled the assembly to replace the pump and the little hose from the pump to the top of the sending unit was rubbing the spring and it had worn a tiny hole in it. That caused it to bleed off until I tried to start it. I had no other issues, just long crank on initial startup
 

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