TrybalRage
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I've never used one, but they sell brackets to act as a quick fix.
Normal ticking???!!
- Thread starter Axm1096
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donjetman
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Install manifold clamps/bridges. Not easy, but easier than getting the old bolts out.
Exhaust Manifold clamp, back driver side – APDTY brand # 028218 - $30 amazon
Exhaust manifold clamps, frt driver side & back pass – APDTY brand #028253- $67
Exhaust Manifold clamp, back driver side – APDTY brand # 028218 - $30 amazon
Exhaust manifold clamps, frt driver side & back pass – APDTY brand #028253- $67
Cool ill give this a try thank you for providing The part numbers
Donjetman is the man, so...
I am so ****, I would take the manifold off and get at the studs left in the block. I would try tacking something that would let me get a purchase on the stud left in the block and use a lot of heat and penetrating oil. I then would replace all the old bolts with ARP. But that is many hours of very frustrating work.
Yeah that would be the good way to do it if this clamps dont work ill have to tackle itDonjetman is the man, so...
I am so ****, I would take the manifold off and get at the studs left in the block. I would try tacking something that would let me get a purchase on the stud left in the block and use a lot of heat and penetrating oil. I then would replace all the old bolts with ARP. But that is many hours of very frustrating work.
It's really not a bad job at all, but there are some risks:
.5/ Buy an ez-out in the appropriate size, and a matching long drill bit.
1/ Raise the front end and put it on jackstands
2/ Remove the front wheels
3/ Remove the front fender liners
4/ Hit those remaining bolts with penetrating oil. Go have some breakfast, and hit them with penetrating oil again. Then, assuming it's after 10AM, go have a beer. Hit them with penetrating oil again.
5/ Support the exhaust at the y-pipe with a jack
6/ Remove the remaining bolts through the wheel wells, working very gently.
7/ Lower the exhaust with the jack enough to expose the tops of the broken studs.
8/ If you can get them out with needle nose pliers, count yourself lucky. If not, use punch to put a divot in the end of the bolt and use your long drill bit to drill a pilot hole for the ez out. Be careful not to drill into the soft aluminum of the head.
9/ Remove the broken bolts with the ez out.
Or....
1/ Take it to your favorite mechanic and let him do it for you. Lol.
I have 3 of those exhaust clamps, by Dorman, on my rig and they work just fine with no problems at all.
Thank you for the suggestion im going to eventually get to extracting the broken bolt when i have some more time on my hands i think the clamps will do for a temporary fix
IMO, wait till you need to take the heads off for any reason and then do the bolt extraction. Till then, the Dorman clamps work really well.
Im going to order them tonight thank you all
Just remember, they are front and rear and left and right specific.
Lots of people swear by them. Interestingly on my 2007, none of the exhaust manifold bolts have broken yet. I've been considering replacing them with ARP bolts proactively just to avoid the problem completely. This thread may get me off my butt to do it.
The only problem with that is that when you go to replace them, some bolts may break.
I am in the same boat with my '07.
One of these days I am going to get all energetic and replace them with ARP's. Just not this day.
TollKeeper
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In the same boat with mine.. If it aint broke, I aint gonna fix it..I am in the same boat with my '07.
One of these days I am going to get all energetic and replace them with ARP's. Just not this day.
ThisIsLivin
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I bet when your all done it will still make the same ticking noise. Buy a mechanics stethoscope from Harbor Freight. You will find the ticking is from a lifter. Could be a lifter or rocker arm issue, but that ticking is definitely valve train.
You can’t say that for sure. There’s been many on here that sound exactly like that and it was exhaust leak. Mine included. I could have swore it was lifter noise.
kevlac
TYF Newbie
I had that same noise on my 2014. I would notice it slightly when the engine was cold. It was more apparent after the engine was cooling down after of period of being used. For example, if I went to the grocery store, the noise was mild ,but present, on the way there. On the way home, after shopping for 1/2 hour, the noise was much louder especially under acceleration. Indeed, the rear exhaust manifold bolts were broken on both sides.
I bought the clamps from Kral. https://www.kralautoparts.com I understand Kral invented those clamps. Their products are made in the USA. I was able to get the passenger side on, but I was not able to get the driver side clamp installed. I think I could have, but I could not get the ground strap off of the back of engine block to utilize the hole needed for the clamp. Not all models have a ground strap in that spot. I will tell you, those clamps will test your patience!
About two weeks, I ended up having a mechanic replace the bolts. In fact, I had new manifolds installed at the same time. They charged about $500 per side for new manifolds, gaskets, bolts, labor, etc. The noise went away.
I bought the clamps from Kral. https://www.kralautoparts.com I understand Kral invented those clamps. Their products are made in the USA. I was able to get the passenger side on, but I was not able to get the driver side clamp installed. I think I could have, but I could not get the ground strap off of the back of engine block to utilize the hole needed for the clamp. Not all models have a ground strap in that spot. I will tell you, those clamps will test your patience!
About two weeks, I ended up having a mechanic replace the bolts. In fact, I had new manifolds installed at the same time. They charged about $500 per side for new manifolds, gaskets, bolts, labor, etc. The noise went away.
ross reynolds
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I have been chasing the same issue. I read on another forum that a guy with his wife’s suburban doing this, and he pulled the oil pan, then the oil pick up tube, and changed the rubber o-ring. Supposedly this fixed the tick but I’ve yet to do mine. I have also heard about a TSB for adding an oil distribution hat while the pan is removed, which for a few dollars should be also done while it’s pulled apart.
I think changing the O-ring is more about oil pressure than anything going on with lifters. Adding the AFM oil pressure relief valve deflector is a good idea on engines that were made before they started installing them at the factory.
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