Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Is your check engine light on?
Help! 1999 Chevy Tahoe no start issue!
- Thread starter Sammie859
- Start date
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Glad its running Sammi. Stop and get codes scanned, hopfully by a different person. Trying to verify no P1345 present.Post Codes please.
Spark tester on coil terminal and Distributor coil terminal. That will determine if coil wire or grounds weak if there is a difference between the two.
I posted the wiring diagrams to shut up the guesses. And to help your mechanic.
Next Battery disconnect, Unplug PCM , check clean and dry (Dielectric grease good here) Replug.
If still chasing miss, wiggle wires on ICM while engine running to see if it changes.
Report back.
Spark tester on coil terminal and Distributor coil terminal. That will determine if coil wire or grounds weak if there is a difference between the two.
I posted the wiring diagrams to shut up the guesses. And to help your mechanic.
Next Battery disconnect, Unplug PCM , check clean and dry (Dielectric grease good here) Replug.
If still chasing miss, wiggle wires on ICM while engine running to see if it changes.
Report back.
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Sammie859
Member
Relearn complete. And NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. This makes no sense. Why would it start now and not before?!
Does it still have the rough idle?
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Sammie859
Member
There’s no check engine light on. Idles good. I did the relearn for the crankshaft sensor. She drove good.
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Sammie859
Member
No, it was idling fine after the relearn. And no more “shimmying” either.
Wow, that is great news. Deeeeeep breaths, deeeeeep breaths......
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Sammie859
Member
Someone gave me directions in this thread on how to do the relearn.
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Sammie859
Member
I know right! I was so excited and ready to jump up any down! Me and this hoe have a love/hate relationship! Haha. I will watch her closely tho. Still think somethings off. Doesn’t make sense why she started now. Has me puzzled.
Sometimes things these rigs put us thru do not make sense at all. That is why I like to replace some parts before they break or wear out. I also am **** about maintenance and common things like the battery cable connections being tight and clean, and tune parts replaced before a problem rears it's ugly head, check all grounds for cleanliness and tight and intact. They just need some TLC sometimes.
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Sammie859
Member
Went back out to try to start it after letting it sit for awhile. Started right up. But now, the check engine light is back on! #ugh
So I guess tomorrow I will be going to auto zone to see what the code is. I’ve got a feeling it’s the P0340 coming back on, seeing as I never changed the camshaft sensor. I was scared to change it because it already wasn’t starting. Didn’t want to throw more parts at it. But I will let you guys know tomorrow.
So I guess tomorrow I will be going to auto zone to see what the code is. I’ve got a feeling it’s the P0340 coming back on, seeing as I never changed the camshaft sensor. I was scared to change it because it already wasn’t starting. Didn’t want to throw more parts at it. But I will let you guys know tomorrow.
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Sammie859
Member
I understand. I’ve only had the truck for a year. That’s why I went ahead and replaced the plugs and wires. Because I wasn’t sure when they had been done last. I’m a change my oil every 3,000 mile kinda person. I do want to get the differential oil changed at some poin. Not sure if that’s ever been done either. And look into when and if the fuel pump has been changed. And change the fuel filter. I love this truck. I wasn’t ready to give up on it! I will take some better pics tomorrow!
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
You should def get your own scanner. You can get a cheap one for under $30. It's def worth having one.
Whatever you do, don't just buy a part at AZ just because they say, "This code says you need a cam sensor"-just an example. No code ever tells you what part it needs. It just points you at what system or area is having a problem and then there are diagnostic steps for that code. You could replace 3 cam sensors and never fix the actual wire problem it may have.
TollKeeper
Full Access Member
I have a feeling the reason it started after you pressed the gas pedal is because of an air pocket in the spider, and you pressed the gas pedal, which increased to pulse, and it vented out the air pocket.
As far the MIL, im betting on a correlation mismatch, Cam to Crank.
As far the MIL, im betting on a correlation mismatch, Cam to Crank.
Glad you got it running. Keep us posted as to your check engine light.
Food for thought. I have a 1998 2 door tahoe. Had it since 2004. On 2 occasions I had an intermittent no start condition. 1st time was a bad wiring harness connector at the fuel pump located above the gas tank. I bought a new fuel pump that came with a new connector (wiring harness side) and it solved the problem. Second time it ended up being the ignition key switch wiring harness. These may have nothing to do with your no start problem. Just something to keep in mind in the future. Good luck!
Food for thought. I have a 1998 2 door tahoe. Had it since 2004. On 2 occasions I had an intermittent no start condition. 1st time was a bad wiring harness connector at the fuel pump located above the gas tank. I bought a new fuel pump that came with a new connector (wiring harness side) and it solved the problem. Second time it ended up being the ignition key switch wiring harness. These may have nothing to do with your no start problem. Just something to keep in mind in the future. Good luck!
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Sammie859
Member
Thank you. She’s started everyday since. The only code it’s showing is the camshaft sensor. So idk.
I would still do that cam sensor. If you already bought the distributor, you did didn't you, I would install it as long as it came with the cam sensor. Not a hard job to do. Any shop that knows what they are doing can install it in about an hour or less.
