What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

Ok. Thanks. I have some long rifle q-tips that I use for all kinds of detail work.
I wasn’t sure if pipe cleaners would “shed” while using them on something like that.

I wouldn't use q-tips, pipe cleaners wont shed anything a q-tip could leave material behind

 

[alpha_omega]

I wouldn't use q-tips, pipe cleaners wont shed anything a q-tip could leave material behind

Sorry. That’s what I was getting at regarding shedding material. The q-tips work great for a lot of things, but I didn’t want to use them for that specific project and for the same reason, I had reservations about pipe cleaners as well.

 

[Just Fishing]

Ordered an oem valve cover.
@iamdub I saw that same seller had another for 43$ on a different ad.
Also listed it on amazon for something like $53

Pictures don't look right to me, Looked sorta generic and like those i see on amazon that are china made.
I'm sure there is probably no difference, but i just paid $70 for one from a seller in AZ that I know sends me actual GM parts...

 

[Just Fishing]

And i made a little temporary wideband mount from wire...

 

[5strmtrp]

I trimmed mine on my 02 with Belltech drop spindles ,it wasn't an issue. Why do you think you won't be able to remove the nuts afterward? Just remove them, they'll clean the threads as they come off. You pretty much have to in order to use drop spindles. Unless I'm misunderstanding you.

I tried to remove the uca bolt from the spindle, all the nut did was spin with the stud. The stock bolt has a hex key In the middle to hold the bolt in place as you back out the nut. Once u cut the bolt down to what it tells u you have no way of holding the stud from spinning with the nut.

 

[89Suburban]

I tried to remove the uca bolt from the spindle, all the nut did was spin with the stud. The stock bolt has a hex key In the middle to hold the bolt in place as you back out the nut. Once u cut the bolt down to what it tells u you have no way of holding the stud from spinning with the nut.

What about using a pry bar to put pressure on the stud to keep it from spinning?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Does any of the stud protrude out past the nut? If so, slot it with a dremel or angle grinder with cutoff wheel

 

[iamdub]

I love anything stealthy.

Says the guy with one of the loudest trucks on the forum.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Says the guy with one of the loudest trucks on the forum.View attachment 347163

True. I'd love to quiet it down, but I don't have a bunch of $$ for trial n' error. It's hard to creep around

 

[iamdub]

True. I'd love to quiet it down, but I don't have a bunch of $$ for trial n' error. It's hard to creep around

No cats? Just cram as much muffler as you can under there. Gonna need at least 30" to get it "half-assed normal". I have 40" (22"+18", butted together) and it's about all that can fit. It's pretty tame, but still meaty when idling and cruising. She barks when you step on her, though.

 

[Tonyrodz]

No cats? Just cram as much muffler as you can under there. Gonna need at least 30" to get it "half-assed normal". I have 40" (22"+18", butted together) and it's about all that can fit. It's pretty tame, but still meaty when idling and cruising. She barks when you step on her, though.

Sounds reasonable. Right now that MBRP is just a straight through deal. Have any recommendations on a good/decent muffler? Also, would changing to a bigger non straight through have an affect on the tune or performance? It was tuned with this muffler in mind. Thx dub.

EDIT--I have 2 brand new Borla mufflers, but they're only 2 1/4" in/out. I assume using reducers would affect performance? I'm using the stock sized exhaust piping, which I think is 3".

 

[iamdub]

Sounds reasonable. Right now that MBRP is just a straight through deal. Have any recommendations on a good/decent muffler? Also, would changing to a bigger non straight through have an affect on the tune or performance? It was tuned with this muffler in mind. Thx dub.

EDIT--I have 2 brand new Borla mufflers, but they're only 2 1/4" in/out. I assume using reducers would affect performance? I'm using the stock sized exhaust piping, which I think is 3".

The mufflers I have are a straight-through design. One has a center inlet/offset outlet, so it does have a slight "Z" path to it. Keeping with this design won't affect the tune or performance at all.

Factory piping, at least on my GMT900 is 2.75". You could do Y to split your current pipe into two 2.25" to go into the mufflers placed side-by side, then Y them back together afterward and continue out as a single pipe. But, I think that'd hurt the flow and overcomplicate things. I'm a fan of the Magnaflow clones from AP Exhaust (Xlerator series) because they seem to be identical in function and quality to the Magnaflow, but are half the price or cheaper. But, I can't say if the stainless is a lower grade or not and might not hold up as well in salt cuz that's not an issue here.

Here's the 40" of muffler crammed under mine: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1485217

I forgot about the cutout. If it weren't for that, I could fit another ~10" or so of muffler.

 

[Tonyrodz]

The mufflers I have are a straight-through design. One has a center inlet/offset outlet, so it does have a slight "Z" path to it. Keeping with this design won't affect the tune or performance at all.

Factory piping, at least on my GMT900 is 2.75". You could do Y to split your current pipe into two 2.25" to go into the mufflers placed side-by side, then Y them back together afterward and continue out as a single pipe. But, I think that'd hurt the flow and overcomplicate things. I'm a fan of the Magnaflow clones from AP Exhaust (Xlerator series) because they seem to be identical in function and quality to the Magnaflow, but are half the price or cheaper. But, I can't say if the stainless is a lower grade or not and might not hold up as well in salt cuz that's not an issue here.

Here's the 40" of muffler crammed under mine: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1485217

I forgot about the cutout. If it weren't for that, I could fit another ~10" or so of muffler.

Thx Dub, I'm gonna check that one out. Sux about the Borlas. I've had them for 15 yrs. I'd love to use them on something. I bet they'd sound great with the long tubes.

 

[Logan S Bull]

I'm still in the process of a full re uild this weekend. Still waiting in heads from wilkes. 5.3 bored 30 over.

 

[1BADI5]

Who is building the stage 5 6L80 ?

Circle D - you have to ship them your transmission for them to build. The trans will be rated for 1000 rwhp

 

[1BADI5]

Just curious- what do you have into that setup? Is it a lot cheaper than a Wilwoods front kit?

Well all said and done I will only be into the kit for just under $1500; the Wilwood kit for the 16" rotors was going to be about $2500

Calipers with hardware kit - $950
Rotors - $220
Adapters - $195
Pads - $50
Banjo bolts/washers - $10

 

[1BADI5]

Sounds reasonable. Right now that MBRP is just a straight through deal. Have any recommendations on a good/decent muffler? Also, would changing to a bigger non straight through have an affect on the tune or performance? It was tuned with this muffler in mind. Thx dub.

EDIT--I have 2 brand new Borla mufflers, but they're only 2 1/4" in/out. I assume using reducers would affect performance? I'm using the stock sized exhaust piping, which I think is 3".

Stock exhaust pipe on the 5.3 should be 2.5"

 

[Tonyrodz]

Stock exhaust pipe on the 5.3 should be 2.5"

Originally was a 4.8.

 

[Rocket Man]

Well all said and done I will only be into the kit for just under $1500; the Wilwood kit for the 16" rotors was going to be about $2500

Calipers with hardware kit - $950
Rotors - $220
Adapters - $195
Pads - $50
Banjo bolts/washers - $10

Not bad, about $1000 less than Wilwoods.

 

[1BADI5]

Not bad, about $1000 less than Wilwoods.

Yup, should leave me enough money to do the rear brakes with C7 rear calipers. Still trying to sort out the brakelines on whether I need custom lines or if the OEM Tahoe lines will work