2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

[Dantheman1540]

Lol, funny drawing
I'm such a kid

I see..................NOTHING

I figured it would all be redacted under the new Censorship Communist Party

 

[pwtr02ss]

I think I have the AC issue figured out a little better. If I unplug and replug in the sensor on the drier the AC works fine for several days until I go above 3k rpm which it then promptly turns off and will not come on again until that sensor is fondled. So strange but the new sensor should be here Saturday.

As for the exhaust, I canceled the order of the Vibrant merge pipe and ordered some 3" pipe to make a J tube with like @Sam Harris suggested a while back. I'm fairly certain the noise that's bothering me is pure drone because outside the truck the exhaust doesn't seem that loud. Inside is a whole different animal and it's most noticeable at low RPM like 1,200-1,800 even worse when I'm lugging the poor thing around in 4th and 5th gear at low speeds. So the plan is to do an 18-20" tube directly off the over axle pipe right behind the final muffler and have it hidden in the spare tire location. Should be fairly easy since the over axle pipe has a V band so It can be removed for the cutting and welding.

Do you sell your work? Thats one fine looking illustration

 

[pwtr02ss]

I figured it would all be redacted under the new Censorship Communist Party

CCP. Nice

 

[Dantheman1540]

Do you sell your work? Thats one fine looking illustration

Absolutely! Send me a Pic and I'll draw a Dic!k

CCP. Nice

The CCP is not so nice

 

[pwtr02ss]

Absolutely! Send me a Pic and I'll draw a Dic!k

The CCP is not so nice

That was a d!ck? I thought it was a rocket????

Agreed

 

[Dantheman1540]

That was a d!ck? I thought it was a rocket????

Agreed

It can be whatever you want it to be

 

[Tonyrodz]

I see..................NOTHING

Hehe....

 

[Tonyrodz]

That was a d!ck? I thought it was a rocket????

Agreed

RED ROCKET, RED ROCKET, RED ROCKET!!!

 

[Rocket Man]

I think I have the AC issue figured out a little better. If I unplug and replug in the sensor on the drier the AC works fine for several days until I go above 3k rpm which it then promptly turns off and will not come on again until that sensor is fondled. So strange but the new sensor should be here Saturday.

As for the exhaust, I canceled the order of the Vibrant merge pipe and ordered some 3" pipe to make a J tube with like @Sam Harris suggested a while back. I'm fairly certain the noise that's bothering me is pure drone because outside the truck the exhaust doesn't seem that loud. Inside is a whole different animal and it's most noticeable at low RPM like 1,200-1,800 even worse when I'm lugging the poor thing around in 4th and 5th gear at low speeds. So the plan is to do an 18-20" tube directly off the over axle pipe right behind the final muffler and have it hidden in the spare tire location. Should be fairly easy since the over axle pipe has a V band so It can be removed for the cutting and welding.

Very nice Dan. Very nice. Artiste’.

 

[iamdub]

I think I have the AC issue figured out a little better. If I unplug and replug in the sensor on the drier the AC works fine for several days until I go above 3k rpm which it then promptly turns off and will not come on again until that sensor is fondled. So strange but the new sensor should be here Saturday.

As for the exhaust, I canceled the order of the Vibrant merge pipe and ordered some 3" pipe to make a J tube with like @Sam Harris suggested a while back. I'm fairly certain the noise that's bothering me is pure drone because outside the truck the exhaust doesn't seem that loud. Inside is a whole different animal and it's most noticeable at low RPM like 1,200-1,800 even worse when I'm lugging the poor thing around in 4th and 5th gear at low speeds. So the plan is to do an 18-20" tube directly off the over axle pipe right behind the final muffler and have it hidden in the spare tire location. Should be fairly easy since the over axle pipe has a V band so It can be removed for the cutting and welding.

You'd have to do the math to determine what length of Helmholtz chamber you'd need to attenuate the specific droning frequency. Just guessing at a length might cancel out other frequencies, making your exhaust note better or worse and do nothing for the offending frequencies.

 

[randeez]

yall motherfuckas need jesus

 

[Dantheman1540]

You'd have to do the math to determine what length of Helmholtz chamber you'd need to attenuate the specific droning frequency. Just guessing at a length might cancel out other frequencies, making your exhaust note better or worse and do nothing for the offending frequencies.

I was initially planning to target drone around the 2k rpm range but, it seems like it's more offensive lower than that around the 1200-1700 range and actually clear up a tad closer to 2k then gets bad again over 2,200. So I even dabbled in the idea of making 2 one short one long.

What formula did you use I've seen a few different ideas floating around.

 

[Dantheman1540]

RED ROCKET, RED ROCKET, RED ROCKET!!!

Like the dick on a dog!

Very nice Dan. Very nice. Artiste’.

Always trying to one up my last master piece.

yall motherfuckas need jesus

Jesus, Jose, Miguel whoever has the best price to mow 5 acres my push mower ain't keeping up with all this rain.

 

[Dantheman1540]

So I installed the new rear door lock actuator and it still doesn't work so I put the original in and I'll return the new one. It has nothing to do with the hatch handle, it's the actuator not having enough force to engage or disengage the lock. Right now I have it manually pushed to unlocked and the door and glass both work fine but it cannot lock. If I manually push it into the locked position it will not have the power to unlock it. It seems to me there is to much resistance in the plastic/metal lock slide I circled in this picture. I lubed them up but still no luck. I may file down the edges of the plastic doodad to see if that helps.

I did get the new AC pressure sensor in and the AC has worked so far. Tomorrow is rear diff gasket.

 

[Tonyrodz]

So I installed the new rear door lock actuator and it still doesn't work so I put the original in and I'll return the new one. It has nothing to do with the hatch handle, it's the actuator not having enough force to engage or disengage the lock. Right now I have it manually pushed to unlocked and the door and glass both work fine but it cannot lock. If I manually push it into the locked position it will not have the power to unlock it. It seems to me there is to much resistance in the plastic/metal lock slide I circled in this picture. I lubed them up but still no luck. I may file down the edges of the plastic doodad to see if that helps.

I did get the new AC pressure sensor in and the AC has worked so far. Tomorrow is rear diff gasket.

 

[Rocket Man]

View attachment 344535

Huh. All I see is a mushroom.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Knocked out the rear end seal this morning. It went super quick especially since all the allen head cover bolts were finger loose again. I threw those in the trash and replaced them with some nice SS Flange head hex bolts kept in with red loctite along with the lube locker gasket @Rocket Man raves about.

No leaks so far, the G80 is still looking good, no damage on the ring, pinion or spider gears despite only about a half a qt come out when I drained it. Luckily it just started leaking that bad a few days ago so I don't think I hurt anything.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Looks great under there. Like the powder coating

 

[Rocket Man]

Knocked out the rear end seal this morning. It went super quick especially since all the allen head cover bolts were finger loose again. I threw those in the trash and replaced them with some nice SS Flange head hex bolts kept in with red loctite along with the lube locker gasket @Rocket Man raves about.

No leaks so far, the G80 is still looking good, no damage on the ring, pinion or spider gears despite only about a half a qt come out when I drained it. Luckily it just started leaking that bad a few days ago so I don't think I hurt anything.
View attachment 344586View attachment 344588

I just pulled my trans pan and reinstalled it, reusing the LubeLocker gasket. You couldn’t even tell looking at the gasket it had been used once. No leaks still.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Looks great under there. Like the powder coating

Thanks I spent almost as long pressure washing as I did resealing it. Considering sending the over axle pipe off to get powdered black after I play around with the j pipe.

I just pulled my trans pan and reinstalled it, reusing the LubeLocker gasket. You couldn’t even tell looking at the gasket it had been used once. No leaks still.

I believe it , I was very impressed with its quality as well as their packaging. Thank you for the suggestion I'm planning to use them on everything if I can.