2007 GMC Denali stalls after towing
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Hank Schlesinger
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Jeff, I have the same problem I was going to try the insulation, anything special was the insulation you used? a wrap type? WHere did you purchase the insulation? I tried checking my fuel pressure but the Schrader valve must be bad I get zero fuel pressure
oldtimer
TYF Newbie
I used Thermaflect tape (see post #69) to insulate fuel rails.
Still chasing problem. I will try 15-50wt oil next. Maybe a hot oil, low pressure issue??????
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFN3DU/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Still chasing problem. I will try 15-50wt oil next. Maybe a hot oil, low pressure issue??????
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFN3DU/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would get the pressure test and bleed off figured out before proceeding just to verify that your problem is the same as mine was. I have had several members message me back that this was in fact their problem. Verify by performing the fuel bleed via a few key cycles. No reason to wrap the lines and fuel rail manifold if bleeding the fuel doesn't allow it to start instantly. Refer back to post 14 for the materials and here is a link for the 3/4 inch wrap that I used on the lines. I don't see the 1 1/2 inch listed now but any of the larger sizes should work since you will be doing a lot of cutting and zip tying around the fuel rail manifolds.
3 feet Fire Sleeve Braid Flame Heat Shield 3/4" Fits 10AN for Oil Fuel Lines Red | eBay
I directed you over here, all I can add is to try the fuel line pressure release first since that will not cost you anything to try, I don't think it is a common enough issue for anyone to say "yes" this for sure works, it could be any of the above or something else entirely, if you have the time and money to throw at it maybe shotgun it and try them all?
What vehicle do you have? 2007-2008 6.2L? If so, no sure solution, since there are a number of potential causes ... but the low hot oil pressure/VVT problem is probably the cause 80% of the time. So the very first thing you should do is check what your oil pressure is at idle, when the engine is fully hot (better yet, after towing). You may need a scan tool that is capable of displaying oil pressure. Anything less than 20 PSI at hot idle may be a problem.
IMO trans heat combined with catalytic converter heat would contribute to vapor lock, my trans temp would go 3/4 of the way towing not necessarily over heating the trans, but since the upgrade trans temps don’t go past half and i don’t stall anymore
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there is no 3/4 of the way on the gmt900's only degree's
mine would easily be 210-220 all the time just driving, albeit I drive like a madman, but once I added the tru-cool and a B&M deep pan it has not gone over 180 and usually hangs around 145-165 or less in the winter, trans lines & oil lines run separate from each other completely and run on opposite sides of the radiator.
Was speaking of my 05, that was the first test before my 08, have you stalled since your mods
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I have never stalled even driving it 95mph up a 6% upgrade at 9000 feet for a extended period of time, basically forcing it to run hot. even then the transmission hung around 165, engine got warm maybe 220 or so. I know underhood temps are crazy hot on these trucks there is no where for it go, you could try taking off the shroud/guard around the wipers/hinge area and see if that helps, I might try that myself when I go get fireworks next month I have to pass over the sierra's and she's a steep *****
Are you towing, mine hasn’t stalled after the cooler install
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That’s impressive, you drive your vehicle harder than guys towing 5-7k lbsno, but I drive it harder than it would be towing, let's put it this way my current mpg on the 2012 is 8.5I get 9/9.5 on my 2018 only because it is slightly better technology
currently a lot of short fast trips
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I might have burnt my cat's out again and now is not a good time prices are double and almost triple of what they normally should be.
**I did get it up to 12.7 a couple weeks ago driving 55-60 on a 2-lane packed highway that you just can't go any faster because it's a death trap.
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I went by the local muffler shop the other day and they said it's cheaper to buy the factory y pipe now than aftermarket, they said they quoted a guy $1800.00 to do his gm that same day.
I have one albeit not the 40k trucool, it's a derale about half the size.
2008, when I tow I constantly watch my torque app which has oil pressure and temperature. When cruising, pressure stays around 38 to 40 PSI, when idling it stays anywhere between 15 to 20. Oil temperature was running usually between 230 to 240.
" 2008, when I tow I constantly watch my torque app which has oil pressure and temperature. When cruising, pressure stays around 38 to 40 PSI, when idling it stays anywhere between 15 to 20. Oil temperature was running usually between 230 to 240."
15-20 psi hot idle is too low, this makes it highly likely that your problem is caused by the typical VVT/ low hot oil pressure problem. You can read the cause and solution details earlier in this thread: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...stalls-after-towing.73312/page-7#post-1519861
15-20 psi hot idle is too low, this makes it highly likely that your problem is caused by the typical VVT/ low hot oil pressure problem. You can read the cause and solution details earlier in this thread: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...stalls-after-towing.73312/page-7#post-1519861
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