What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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the_tool_man

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Well you’re right. Was the engine mount. How bad is it to change it without pulling engine?
Several others chimed in already. But I'll add a few tips. I just replaced my DS mount on my Denali (AWD) with a solid rubber one from an H3. I removed the engine cover, steering shaft and exhaust manifold heat shield only. I also had to cut apart the metal heat shield that was on the original mount to gain access to the bolts holding it to the block. I used an engine hoist, but a jack from below would work if you spread the load out with a block of wood or something. The worst part was reaching the two rear bolts into the block. Thankfully I had a friend helping that was tall and had long arms. We got to everything from above, and finished in under 2 hours, taking our time.

I'd recommend against removing the exhaust manifold itself if you can avoid it. If you snap a couple of manifold bolts, your 1-1/2 hour project could become significantly more involved. I did discover one broken bolt on mine; the rear-most one of course. But I saved that project for another day, and have replacement ARP hardware and gaskets for the occasion.
 

avalonandl

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It's been a crazy few weeks. But we celebrated Easter yesterday, leaving today free for some truck upgrading. So I swapped my hazed, leaking OEM headlights for new aftermarket ones. I went ahead and upgraded the bulbs with PIAA 4000k ones per recommendations from other TYF members. Removing the bumper cover wasn't too bad. But I hopefully won't have to do it again anytime soon.

Before:
View attachment 275354

During:
View attachment 275355

After:
View attachment 275356

Night shots to come after I aim them. Yeah, I know I need to wash it. But it's pollen season in the South. So I probably won't bother for a couple of weeks.

Which lights are those.?
 

08z71bgm

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Several others chimed in already. But I'll add a few tips. I just replaced my DS mount on my Denali (AWD) with a solid rubber one from an H3. I removed the engine cover, steering shaft and exhaust manifold heat shield only. I also had to cut apart the metal heat shield that was on the original mount to gain access to the bolts holding it to the block. I used an engine hoist, but a jack from below would work if you spread the load out with a block of wood or something. The worst part was reaching the two rear bolts into the block. Thankfully I had a friend helping that was tall and had long arms. We got to everything from above, and finished in under 2 hours, taking our time.

I'd recommend against removing the exhaust manifold itself if you can avoid it. If you snap a couple of manifold bolts, your 1-1/2 hour project could become significantly more involved. I did discover one broken bolt on mine; the rear-most one of course. But I saved that project for another day, and have replacement ARP hardware and gaskets for the occasion.
How did you by hook up the hoist?

yes I do not want to remove the exhaust manifold if possible. You say you got everything from the top? You didn’t have to lay on the floor at all?
 

89Suburban

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So on another note (more of a pet peeve/rant), why do semi drivers take forever to pass each other? I mean, there will be a few of them in a row in the right lane doing 70 mph, then the last one will be doing like 71 mph and move to the left lane to pass the truck in front of him, but it takes like 10 mins to do it, causing traffic to back up behind him (speed limit is 75 for cars, 70 for trucks through Arkansas). Then, 30 seconds after that truck passes the one in front of him and gets over to the right, the one behind him, which he just passed, puts on his signal and starts to do the process over!! It's like they leapfrog!!


A lot of those trucks are governed only within a few MPH of each other right around that 70-72 mark, so yeah it's a pain in the ass for you and them both. Think of NASCAR drafting only with big trucks. The ungoverned ones will usually pass quicker.
 
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the_tool_man

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How did you by hook up the hoist?

yes I do not want to remove the exhaust manifold if possible. You say you got everything from the top? You didn’t have to lay on the floor at all?
We used a tow strap and hooked it around the front accessory bracket. Come to think of it, we did have to remove the intake pipe to do that. So add that to the removal list.

I didn't go beneath at all, except to see if we could gain easier access to the mount bolts to the block. With the extensions I had, I didn't see any way to get to them from below. FWIW, I also considered going through the wheel well with the fender liner removed. But there's a bunch of stuff attached to that in the engine bay. So it all looked like too much trouble, given that I had my tall, long-armed friend available. Videos I watched on YT confirmed going in from above is easiest.

If you do the PS mount (which I haven't done yet), it's a different story. It looks like the easiest method is to pull the fender liner and the starter, and snake everything in through that way. And I'll add, resist the temptation to do both mounts at the same time. One thing that really makes room is to leave the opposite side connected so you can rock the engine away from the mount being replaced without running out of room at the firewall. You get about double the space that way. Otherwise, from what I've seen, you have to disassemble the mount in place and pull it out in pieces. There are videos that recommend this. But it looks a lot harder to me, and shouldn't be necessary.
 

03_GMC

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How did you by hook up the hoist?

yes I do not want to remove the exhaust manifold if possible. You say you got everything from the top? You didn’t have to lay on the floor at all?
You definitely don’t need to remove the exhaust manifold. I did everything from the top side as well. Except of course placing the floor jack. Just make sure you have patience and beer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Bill 1960

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I've been listening to the sound of a dry bearing when the A/C compressor is OFF the last few days. It goes quiet when the compressor clutch engages. Began on cold starts only but it's ramping up to be slight but always there now.

So I'm asking myself what's the chances it's:

1. the old dried out belt I haven't changed yet. $
2. a sympathetic squeak from a failing idler. $$
3. the compressor clutch. $$$

I'm placing my bets on door number 3.
 

Sam Harris

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I've been listening to the sound of a dry bearing when the A/C compressor is OFF the last few days. It goes quiet when the compressor clutch engages. Began on cold starts only but it's ramping up to be slight but always there now.

So I'm asking myself what's the chances it's:

1. the old dried out belt I haven't changed yet. $
2. a sympathetic squeak from a failing idler. $$
3. the compressor clutch. $$$

I'm placing my bets on door number 3.
Hopefully number one!
 

08z71bgm

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You definitely don’t need to remove the exhaust manifold. I did everything from the top side as well. Except of course placing the floor jack. Just make sure you have patience and beer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ll have patience to do it soon as my other car is almost 100% then I can start working on that little by little and not worry about having two cars down.
 

08z71bgm

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We used a tow strap and hooked it around the front accessory bracket. Come to think of it, we did have to remove the intake pipe to do that. So add that to the removal list.

I didn't go beneath at all, except to see if we could gain easier access to the mount bolts to the block. With the extensions I had, I didn't see any way to get to them from below. FWIW, I also considered going through the wheel well with the fender liner removed. But there's a bunch of stuff attached to that in the engine bay. So it all looked like too much trouble, given that I had my tall, long-armed friend available. Videos I watched on YT confirmed going in from above is easiest.

If you do the PS mount (which I haven't done yet), it's a different story. It looks like the easiest method is to pull the fender liner and the starter, and snake everything in through that way. And I'll add, resist the temptation to do both mounts at the same time. One thing that really makes room is to leave the opposite side connected so you can rock the engine away from the mount being replaced without running out of room at the firewall. You get about double the space that way. Otherwise, from what I've seen, you have to disassemble the mount in place and pull it out in pieces. There are videos that recommend this. But it looks a lot harder to me, and shouldn't be necessary.
Thanks. Yeah I’m not changing the right side. Only the left.
 

Just Fishing

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Got my new ac compressor.
Came in a nice sealed blue "Genuine GM" parts box.

upload_2021-4-5_12-41-8.png


got it from amazon for about $138.
Price went up since i ordered it...
 

Rocket Man

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I've been listening to the sound of a dry bearing when the A/C compressor is OFF the last few days. It goes quiet when the compressor clutch engages. Began on cold starts only but it's ramping up to be slight but always there now.

So I'm asking myself what's the chances it's:

1. the old dried out belt I haven't changed yet. $
2. a sympathetic squeak from a failing idler. $$
3. the compressor clutch. $$$

I'm placing my bets on door number 3.
It’s usually the most expensive.
 

Rocket Man

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