Growing up doesn't have to suck

[Dantheman1540]

Lol

Well, one thing I wanna tune is to reduce or remove Torque Management. I can't do that on a (supposedly) 200K-mile stock trans and expect to drive home. So, this needs to happen.

I totally understand that! I've never seen a good write up of how to build one so i am super interested!

 

[iamdub]

I totally understand that! I've never seen a good write up of how to build one so i am super interested!

I'll do my thang. But, for some step-by-step instruction, Tyler Dropbox'ed me a video. He also sent me parts lists and special tools lists. I basically got a crystal ball to have a clear picture (or video!) of what my 4L60E building future entails.

Now, which one of you assholes can Dropbox me winning lottery numbers or guaranteed stock market investment tips?

 

[89Suburban]

I'm reminded of this quote:

 

[pwtr02ss]

As expected, the ISS was not there, confirming that this WAS a Gen3 trans. BUT, the hole where the ISS goes was there and had a factory cap secured by a snap ring, so it's not like I'll have to drill out a cast-in blank or machine a hole, etc. to add the ISS:

View attachment 271835



I really don't care about the filth since all I need is an undamaged case with good internal hard parts, and, so far, I still believe I have that. I'll be replacing the major parts with upgraded ones and the rest will be new upgraded normal wear items (clutches, steels, etc.). What I'm trying to do at this point is verify that the only difference between this Gen3 and a Gen4 is the addition of the ISS. This one is an '07, but from the "Classic" body style. As far as I know, I'll need the ISS, the internal harness (was getting a new one, anyway) and the correct pump (this part stings a little, but whatever). I MIGHT need the later input shaft if this one doesn't have the reluctor on it. In the meantime, I'm still keeping a look out for a cheap and rebuildable true Gen4 4L60E.

The part in the picture is part of the pump. Once you remove the snap ring, there are springs and things under it. The ISS plug is located in that square section but the actual sensor is further down on the pump, right where the input shaft goes through

Here are some pics of mine. The black part in the hole is the harness plug. On the pump, you can see the harness and sensor. After thinking on it, you may be able to buy a pump half with that provision, if the other half of your pump is ok.

Just wanted to clear that up for future lurkers stealing your hard research like me...

edit: you are looking down at the spot the arrow is pointing to. The snap ring is under that harness clip. Circled is the actual sensor

one more effing edit:

you can see the sensor in the upper left corner. Sorry for the random pics and 10 edits, I’m just filtering through the few I took during disassembly

 

[pwtr02ss]

... But if a knuckle-draggin mouth-breather such as @pwtr02ss can build one, then so can I.

****** truth.

Hope mine works when I get it back together

 

[Dantheman1540]

Where is the part made of glass that always breaks on those things?

 

[pwtr02ss]

Where is the part made of glass that always breaks on those things?

Sunshell is a common failure point. Usually in these heavy pigs, they just eat the 3/4 clutch pack and the band. If the sunshell breaks, you have no reverse, 1st, or overdrive. If the 3/4 pack takes a shit, it'll shift 1st and second, then nothing. If the band goes, you get slip in second and OD.

Edit again because I my click finger is faster than my brain....


That ring breaks away from the sunshell usually (In sunshell failure). Always upgrade to a "Beast HD" or the more expensive "Sonnax Smartshell". I will be using the smart shell for the first time in mine. I've only broken one "Beast" but it had to be a defective part. Never had an issue with the others. I wanted to give the smart shell a try since the avalanche is a big girl.

 

[pwtr02ss]

I totally understand that! I've never seen a good write up of how to build one so i am super interested!

 

[Dantheman1540]

Sunshell is a common failure point. Usually in these heavy pigs, they just eat the 3/4 clutch pack and the band. If the sunshell breaks, you have no reverse, 1st, or overdrive. If the 3/4 pack takes a shit, it'll shift 1st and second, then nothing. If the band goes, you get slip in second and OD.

Edit again because I my click finger is faster than my brain....


That ring breaks away from the sunshell usually (In sunshell failure). Always upgrade to a "Beast HD" or the more expensive "Sonnax Smartshell". I will be using the smart shell for the first time in mine. I've only broken one "Beast" but it had to be a defective part. Never had an issue with the others. I wanted to give the smart shell a try since the avalanche is a big girl.


View attachment 271888

That doesn't appear to be made of glass .


I've heard of a ton of those failures its a shame more people don't try to rebuild their own 60e. Then again I likely won't try to dive into the nv4500 if mine goes. I'll just order a replacement and send the broken one in as a core, only upgrades to these are cryo-treated gearsets and of course, clutches.

Where do you buy all your 60e parts at?

 

[pwtr02ss]

That doesn't appear to be made of glass .


I've heard of a ton of those failures its a shame more people don't try to rebuild their own 60e. Then again I likely won't try to dive into the nv4500 if mine goes. I'll just order a replacement and send the broken one in as a core, only upgrades to these are cryo-treated gearsets and of course, clutches.

Where do you buy all your 60e parts at?

Manual transmissions are far easier. They are just gears, bushings, and some synchros. You'd have no problem with either but a manual is definitely easier.

I used to buy from Dacco because they were local but they got bought out by transtar and closed the location that was like 30 minutes from me. All the parts for this one came from globaltransmissionparts.com and a few things from ebay that they didn't have.

I highly recommend them. Casey and I have only built three 4L60/700r prior to this one so I'm far from a pro (I hope mine works when we're done). I had some questions about the kolene steels and then had an issue with a pump bushing. I called and spoke with the same guy both times, Kaleb. He was extremely knowledgeable and answered every question I had. I will be buying all my parts from them from here on out.

 

[89Suburban]

The part in the picture is part of the pump. Once you remove the snap ring, there are springs and things under it. The ISS plug is located in that square section but the actual sensor is further down on the pump, right where the input shaft goes through

Here are some pics of mine. The black part in the hole is the harness plug. On the pump, you can see the harness and sensor. After thinking on it, you may be able to buy a pump half with that provision, if the other half of your pump is ok.

Just wanted to clear that up for future lurkers stealing your hard research like me...

View attachment 271882 View attachment 271883 View attachment 271884

edit: you are looking down at the spot the arrow is pointing to. The snap ring is under that harness clip. Circled is the actual sensor
View attachment 271886

one more effing edit:

you can see the sensor in the upper left corner. Sorry for the random pics and 10 edits, I’m just filtering through the few I took during disassembly

View attachment 271890

Those pics remind me of somebody I watch on YT. Dude is cool as shit. He's actually out having some serious surgery right now.


https://www.youtube.com/user/click482003

 

[iamdub]

The part in the picture is part of the pump. Once you remove the snap ring, there are springs and things under it. The ISS plug is located in that square section but the actual sensor is further down on the pump, right where the input shaft goes through

Here are some pics of mine. The black part in the hole is the harness plug. On the pump, you can see the harness and sensor. After thinking on it, you may be able to buy a pump half with that provision, if the other half of your pump is ok.

Just wanted to clear that up for future lurkers stealing your hard research like me...

View attachment 271882 View attachment 271883 View attachment 271884

edit: you are looking down at the spot the arrow is pointing to. The snap ring is under that harness clip. Circled is the actual sensor
View attachment 271886

one more effing edit:

you can see the sensor in the upper left corner. Sorry for the random pics and 10 edits, I’m just filtering through the few I took during disassembly

View attachment 271890

Ah! Thanks for the clarification. I thought the sensor went in that hole. Now I see that they just used that square cast-in window as a dual purpose- to access that cap and as a place for the ISS's harness connector to sit. If it had an ISS, I wouldn't have been able to see that cap and snap ring

 

[iamdub]

****** truth.

Hope mine works when I get it back together

At the rate things are moving for both of us, you'll have yours together and a few miles on it to know if something's wrong long before I've dived into mine. I still gotta find me a 55"+ TV for the shop to use as a monitor to follow that video. My 70" crapped out a while back.

 

[Dantheman1540]

At the rate things are moving for both of us, you'll have yours together and a few miles on it to know if something's wrong long before I've dived into mine. I still gotta find me a 55"+ TV for the shop to use as a monitor to follow that video. My 70" crapped out a while back.

If you had a 70" you can't downgrade to a 55"

 

[pwtr02ss]

At the rate things are moving for both of us, you'll have yours together and a few miles on it to know if something's wrong long before I've dived into mine. I still gotta find me a 55"+ TV for the shop to use as a monitor to follow that video. My 70" crapped out a while back.

As soon as Caseys dad gets over the rona, its going back together. I don't want to be at their residence until that shit gets cleared up.

 

[iamdub]

If you had a 70" you can't downgrade to a 55"

I agree! But I'm also not trying to be greedy. The 55" will fit better where I'd be doing the work. I need it to be like a dedicated rebuild "studio". I'll have other uses for the 55" afterwards and then I'll get another 65"-70". My eyes are old and being able to look up pics and read .pdfs for torque specs, etc. from across the shop is a huge help.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I agree! But I'm also not trying to be greedy. The 55" will fit better where I'd be doing the work. I need it to be like a dedicated rebuild "studio". I'll have other uses for the 55" afterwards and then I'll get another 65"-70". My eyes are old and being able to look up pics and read .pdfs for torque specs, etc. from across the shop is a huge help.

So uh totally unrelated but, the black and machined face 22s you had on before are the current losers in my research for OEM wheel weights. They are the heaviest I've seen at an estimated 50-52lbs each.

 

[pwtr02ss]

So uh totally unrelated but, the black and machined face 22s you had on before are the current losers in my research for OEM wheel weights. They are the heaviest I've seen at an estimated 50-52lbs each.

I hate black wheels but those were my favorite that he's had on it so far

 

[iamdub]

So uh totally unrelated but, the black and machined face 22s you had on before are the current losers in my research for OEM wheel weights. They are the heaviest I've seen at an estimated 50-52lbs each.

Sounds about right. They even look like they'd be heavy. That wheel and tire combo is exactly 11lbs heavier than my declads and Eagle LS-2 combo.

 

[iamdub]

I hate black wheels but those were my favorite that he's had on it so far

Y u gotta b a h8a?

Just wait til I black up a lot more of my Tahoe. Pretty sure I'm gonna do the roof and maybe the hood. Maybe a pillar or two.