randeez
Full Access Member
do you have a histogram set up for the wideband? looks like your narrowbands go out also when you go into OL
2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe
- Thread starter Dantheman1540
- Start date
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Heres what I see.
randeez
Full Access Member
as long as its set up the same way your ve table is, using the wideband to find the error your gtg
but it doesnt look like it is...the left column on the VE table is manifold pressure in kpa 15-105 by 5s***nm just noticed you had it scrolled down
rpm prob right 400-8000 by 400rpm
but it doesnt look like it is...the left column on the VE table is manifold pressure in kpa 15-105 by 5s***nm just noticed you had it scrolled down
rpm prob right 400-8000 by 400rpm
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Yeah, it's the same on scanner and editor, I typically copy and paste special by half then had interpolate. I did a desired idle AF log this morning since it was 39* and the only one I did before the intake temps were like 131 then I interpolated back. Guess I just have more fine-tuning to do which I've been needing to its just annoying having to have a power source and bench harness every time I write a new tune. I need to pull the damn radio out and chop the chime adapter because that's the last thing I know to try to get it to stop failing mid-write.
I guess the work never ends, thank you for the help.
randeez
Full Access Member
You got it...also
No, no.....issa stock
No, no.....issa stock
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Dantheman1540
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Oh baby! That is a sexy setup!
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Dantheman1540
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UPS is currently unable to locate or provide a shipping date for my Viking shocks that are supposed to arrive today!!! 
On top of that, I brought my laptop to work to log some data and make tune changes, and apparently the battery decided to take a dump after about 10 minutes. Usually, it lasts a few hours when charged and it charged all night so I guess it's time for a new battery. It is 6 or 7 years old, can't be too upset I suppose.
On top of that, I brought my laptop to work to log some data and make tune changes, and apparently the battery decided to take a dump after about 10 minutes. Usually, it lasts a few hours when charged and it charged all night so I guess it's time for a new battery. It is 6 or 7 years old, can't be too upset I suppose.
randeez
Full Access Member
never had problems writing - does it just abort halfway thru? can you use a power inverter on the laptop charger or something?
i usually dont interpolate with the VE i usually blend in by hand (phsycially drag the points up/down as needed) it isnt always a linear transition between points
i usually dont interpolate with the VE i usually blend in by hand (phsycially drag the points up/down as needed) it isnt always a linear transition between points
Not sure if this has any bearing, since I’m not using HPT, but any time I need to data log, or load a tune from BBP, I have to pull my radio fuse (aftermarket HU), and 2 remote start fuses, for it to be able to communicate. It’s a PITA
ETA: I just pull the radio fuse under hood, but the remote start system fuses are buried in the dash.
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
It's not the laptop that needs constant power it's the ECU itself. So I have a harness that sends a solid 12v straight to the blue plug on the ECU. If I don't it will typically have a time-out error either during the erase or the write. Sometimes if I try it a dozen times and turn high speed off it will eventually work but that's 1-100. It was bad about it when I got the truck but then the new radio, back up/dashcam, and amp install it went total fuckery and I really don't want to pull the radio birds nest out unless I have another reason to. (I didn't install the radio)
I don't interpolate by highlighting a bunch of cells and clicking the button. I typically look at the numbers and find discrepancies that stand out then smooth them or at least remove an obvious oddity for example 40-33-51 would likely get corrected to 40-45-51 then note that for the next log in case it shows that was a mistake in the next log. I'm terrible at manipulating the 3D graph.
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Dantheman1540
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Yep, same issue basically but pulling the radio fuse or even completely unplugging the POS and putting it in the back seat didn't fix it. I think the chime adapter is hardwired deeper in the dash and I'm to big for dash diving lol.
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Dantheman1540
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Since it's cold I decided to do what I despise to do during the summer. Found out the Milwaukee engine light is perfect for dash work!
Chime adapter BS is the problem. Dug it out of the dash and unplugged then loaded a tune in less than a minute. It was glorious! But with it removed the radio doesn't come on, can I hook some wires together or something to bypass it?
Also replaced the lights button and dome light seems to be working as they should.
Chime adapter BS is the problem. Dug it out of the dash and unplugged then loaded a tune in less than a minute. It was glorious! But with it removed the radio doesn't come on, can I hook some wires together or something to bypass it?
Also replaced the lights button and dome light seems to be working as they should.
Glad you found the problem. Maybe you can wire up a quick disconnect for the power wire to that adapter, that hangs down for easy reach next time? That light is perfect for dash work! Very good...! [emoji16][emoji106]
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Dantheman1540
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Great minds think alike! Wiring extension harness now to relocate it under the dash for quick disconnection access during tune writing!
My colored wire selection is poor so these are all scraps lol.
Haha! Whatever works! As long as you use heat shrink tubing, who cares? lol. Git-r-done!
I need to do this with my fuses for the remote start myself, so I don’t have to pull the damn dash apart for tunes. They’re pretty tough to reach, so haven’t done it yet, but one of these days. Stout wire too. I’d say it’s 8 ga.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
You can't have auto start or aftermarket radio to load bb tunes?
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Depends on the truck and the radio and the chime thingy. My Silverado never cares, buddies denali doesn't care, my tacoma doesnt care, but this thing is a D bag lol
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Must be related to my Hoe then!
Yup. For me I have to pull the cluster bezel, and lower dash panel (below steering column) to get to these fuses where the brain for the remote start is. Pulling the radio fuse at the main box under the hood works form the aftermarket HU, but also have to pull the remote start fuses. Took about 2-3 weeks to figure that out after trying to send data logs to BBP.. I need to add some length to the power wires for the remote start, for easy access and a q/d of some sort. Although, I don’t really want those being very easily found either.. [emoji107]
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