01 Tahoe tune incoming, what (cold) air filter and exhaust?

[iamdub]

I know but that is why I want to change it too. Since I want to tune it to go to 5800/5900 rpm shifting point. Unfortunately I can't get these mufflers in Europe you mentioned. https://www.celtemp-services.nl/3in...7_2557.html?osCsid=7po8dfuvd1i48of7feulevkes5 this is my chose for 3 inch in NL for Magnaflow. But is for example this muffler from Flowmaster Flow FX https://www.ajspeedshop.nl/a-574228...lowmaster-flowfx-mufflers-2-25-2-5-en-3-inch/ a good choice? Also freeflow and €85 euro, is $68 dollars. Because the Magnaflows you mentioned I can only get via ebay and will be like $150+ dollars plus including shipping and taxes. Thanks for your proper information so far

Them FlowFX mufflers are pretty much the same thing and at a good price. My concern is that they're only 14" long. With this muffler design, the case length is what determines the amount of muffling. The 22" one is very near stock and the 18" is a little more aggressive but still mild at idle. The 14" will definitely be heard! If that muffler isn't available in an 18", you may wanna look for something like a 6" bullet muffler to make up the difference. These are also called a "resonator" or "mini muffler". The bonus with this is that with the main muffler and supplemental muffler/resonator, the overall length would be about the same as the stock muffler, so you may not need to get a short piece of pipe to make up the length. If you're not sure, either find an 18" muffler in another brand in that price range or just get the 14" Flowmaster and see what you think. If it's too loud, then get a small supplementary muffler.

Ideas:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Perform...WRD6Ek0O9DNBTMR-V7ANMlSUN6WypAiRoClUQQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Stainless-Glasspack-Fiberglass-Resonator/dp/B07BHKVG74?th=1

 

[Tonny]

Them FlowFX mufflers are pretty much the same thing and at a good price. My concern is that they're only 14" long. With this muffler design, the case length is what determines the amount of muffling. The 22" one is very near stock and the 18" is a little more aggressive but still mild at idle. The 14" will definitely be heard! If that muffler isn't available in an 18", you may wanna look for something like a 6" bullet muffler to make up the difference. These are also called a "resonator" or "mini muffler". The bonus with this is that with the main muffler and supplemental muffler/resonator, the overall length would be about the same as the stock muffler, so you may not need to get a short piece of pipe to make up the length. If you're not sure, either find an 18" muffler in another brand in that price range or just get the 14" Flowmaster and see what you think. If it's too loud, then get a small supplementary muffler.

Ideas:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Perform...WRD6Ek0O9DNBTMR-V7ANMlSUN6WypAiRoClUQQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Stainless-Glasspack-Fiberglass-Resonator/dp/B07BHKVG74?th=1

Thanks again for your clear explanation. It is heartwarming to see people on the other side of the world helping someone in the small Netherlands.

Well the fact is I've to customize everything because even in America it is almost impossible to find a muffler that will be easily to fit. Since it runs from the cats into a single 2,75inch pipe I already have to add a 2,75inch to 3,0 inch conversion piece, but I spoke to the Dutch Flowmaster seller once and he has those or can make those. Then originally exiting the stock muffler in dual 3.0 inch out forging into a single 3.0 inch outlet. And I want to use the OEM 3.0 inch outlet pipe as most as possible. So as said, it will be a custom project anyway. And this is the chart from Flowmaster you will see how it fits in the line of their mufflers. And obviously have been looking at youtube for video's with a Chevy 5.3 with a FM Flow FX muffler. And with dual tips out (which is louder then a single tip, and using the Flow FX canister muffler: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...L2KM4&linkId=2ed8010af476270b5f7c0d87eeb70dc5 ) it makes 98 decibels on full trottle revving. So with the Flow FX muffler I've in mind (with more sound absorption materials), I think it will be the right choice, also fits the bill good literally at the moment. And as you mention, I can always add a supplementary muffler as you mentioned.

From the OEM cats going into a single 2,75inch pipe, and then to the end, photo's of 2019, had good maintenance after this so don't worry about the sweaty parts who are now dry because of new gaskets etc..

Will show a chart in the next post.

 

[Tonny]

Some more exhaust photo's and the flowmaster chart.

EDIT: And I want weight reduction because less weight is more HP per kilo I'm not able in the next years to afford a blower so I'm doing stuff that is cheap or for free, like removing the factory radio system, the 100 kilo weighting LPG system will be removed also in the upcoming months. etc

 

[diLucca]

I think your local exhaust shop(or regular auto garage mechanic with welding machine) should be able to modify stock pipes and weld just a new muffler.

I am in same boat as you, but I decided to buy whole catback(but my broken driveshaft damage quite lot of original exhaust ).

Also if you getting tune, and want intake tube, I will switch to electric fans and get bigger tube 200-919, for eFans of 2005+ Tahoe

 

[Tonny]

Doublepost, see post below this

 

[Tonny]

I think your local exhaust shop(or regular auto garage mechanic with welding machine) should be able to modify stock pipes and weld just a new muffler.

I am in same boat as you, but I decided to buy whole catback(but my broken driveshaft damage quite lot of original exhaust ).

Also if you getting tune, and want intake tube, I will switch to electric fans and get bigger tube 200-919, for eFans of 2005+ Tahoe

Yeah the e-fan is also a thing ha. The mechanical cooling system seems to take a few horses to isn't it? Maybe i'll just go for the exhaust and tune first. And then waiting a little longer so I can try to find second hand Tahoe parts. This month I will drive to Belgium to a man who buys broken Chevy's and sells the parts. I will go there anyway because I want to put the rear side glass windows back in. Just spoke with the person I bought this SUV from, he still has the left side rear laying around I can get for free. Then I will make my way to Belgium, get a the right side rear window and will see what he has for parts lying around. He also has a Surburban 2000-2006 for parts, would a e-fan be in here, will that also fit the Tahoe? Then I will make a agreement that I can get a retune when I've installed the e-fans and maybe a other intake system.

Thanks for the reply and for reminding me about he e-fan. There is so much I want to do, wish my money tree grew faster..

 

[diLucca]

Mechanical fan(viscous) is better for cooling when towing.
Efans for better AC when idling(90% of my city driving).
Efans from any 2005+ GM Truck/SUV(GMT800+900) will fit if you have 86cm(34inch) core radiator. Just need tune, and efan harness(different 00-02, and 03+).

There is good writeup about eFans:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/i-installed-e-fans-on-my-2001.28336/

As for tune I went with BlackBearPerformance, it cost me(around 630eur) with shipping and duties almost same as local tuner(which I dont believe in) .

As for parts I am using RockAuto, eBay and shipping companies(for big parts) to ship into EU. The Poland guys have many parts, but for old used part they want more money than a new from USA with shipping and duties.

 

[iamdub]

Thanks again for your clear explanation. It is heartwarming to see people on the other side of the world helping someone in the small Netherlands.

Well the fact is I've to customize everything because even in America it is almost impossible to find a muffler that will be easily to fit. Since it runs from the cats into a single 2,75inch pipe I already have to add a 2,75inch to 3,0 inch conversion piece, but I spoke to the Dutch Flowmaster seller once and he has those or can make those. Then originally exiting the stock muffler in dual 3.0 inch out forging into a single 3.0 inch outlet. And I want to use the OEM 3.0 inch outlet pipe as most as possible. So as said, it will be a custom project anyway. And this is the chart from Flowmaster you will see how it fits in the line of their mufflers. And obviously have been looking at youtube for video's with a Chevy 5.3 with a FM Flow FX muffler. And with dual tips out (which is louder then a single tip, and using the Flow FX canister muffler: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...L2KM4&linkId=2ed8010af476270b5f7c0d87eeb70dc5 ) it makes 98 decibels on full trottle revving. So with the Flow FX muffler I've in mind (with more sound absorption materials), I think it will be the right choice, also fits the bill good literally at the moment. And as you mention, I can always add a supplementary muffler as you mentioned.

From the OEM cats going into a single 2,75inch pipe, and then to the end...

...so I'm doing stuff that is cheap or for free

I'm all about doing things cheap or free where reasonable. So many waste lots of money on things they don't need or even want only because a seller's advertisement convinced them otherwise. Case in point- the aftermarket cold air intake that does exactly what the factory intake setup does. If you want it for the appearance and the expense is worth it to you, then get the pretty aftermarket one, ya know?

As far as your exhaust, you gotta keep it simple. You'd be hard pressed to find an aftermarket muffler with a 2.75" inlets or outlet. They'll pretty much all be 3" (or 2.5"...). You don't need an adapter to go from the factory 2.75" pipe to the new muffler's 3" inlet. Just slip the factory pipe into the muffler and weld it. It'll be a good fit. After the muffler, just cut out the Y-merge pipe and have a short elbow welded in. I believe that exit/tailpipe is 2.5". So, you'll need a 2.5"-to-3" adapter for that. Or, what I do, since I have to add a splice in anyway to make up the extra length, I use a piece of scrap factory 2.75" pipe inside the muffler's outlet, then the 2.5" pipe goes inside the 2.75" pipe. Makes for a nice transition that's made from stuff already on hand, so it costs nothing extra.

You can't overthink it. GM engineers have already done the hard thinking. All you're doing is changing the muffler to get the extra sound that they weren't allowed to have in their design. You cut out the muffler and weird Y-pipe stuff, and weld in a new muffler with regular pipe in it's place. Keep it simple.

 

[iamdub]

Also if you getting tune, and want intake tube, I will switch to electric fans and get bigger tube 200-919, for eFans of 2005+ Tahoe

Yes! I forgot about the older ones having a mechanical fan.

Yeah the e-fan is also a thing ha. The mechanical cooling system seems to take a few horses to isn't it? Maybe i'll just go for the exhaust and tune first. And then waiting a little longer so I can try to find second hand Tahoe parts. This month I will drive to Belgium to a man who buys broken Chevy's and sells the parts. I will go there anyway because I want to put the rear side glass windows back in. Just spoke with the person I bought this SUV from, he still has the left side rear laying around I can get for free. Then I will make my way to Belgium, get a the right side rear window and will see what he has for parts lying around. He also has a Surburban 2000-2006 for parts, would a e-fan be in here, will that also fit the Tahoe? Then I will make a agreement that I can get a retune when I've installed the e-fans and maybe a other intake system.

Thanks for the reply and for reminding me about he e-fan. There is so much I want to do, wish my money tree grew faster..

An electric fan is a great upgrade and will free up power to be put towards the wheels, where it should be. It will also make your A/C work better when idling in traffic. @diLucca is correct, the models with electric fans have a different MIT. The Suburban and Yukon e-fans will be fine as long as they're not from a 2500. You'll need your tune to turn on the e-fan circuit in the PCM, so you'll need this before you do the swap.

 

[Tonny]

Mechanical fan(viscous) is better for cooling when towing.
Efans for better AC when idling(90% of my city driving).
Efans from any 2005+ GM Truck/SUV(GMT800+900) will fit if you have 86cm(34inch) core radiator. Just need tune, and efan harness(different 00-02, and 03+).

There is good writeup about eFans:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/i-installed-e-fans-on-my-2001.28336/

As for tune I went with BlackBearPerformance, it cost me(around 630eur) with shipping and duties almost same as local tuner(which I dont believe in) .

As for parts I am using RockAuto, eBay and shipping companies(for big parts) to ship into EU. The Poland guys have many parts, but for old used part they want more money than a new from USA with shipping and duties.

Yes RockAuto I know. Ordered parts from there sometime as well.

Thanks for the e-fans thread. Will read that. And reconsider since I just remind myself I've a new radiator which is smaller then the original. My Tahoe has two mounting points for the radiator, only thing was I had to cut the fan cover also.

Well this tuner is the one the most famous Honda tuners in Europe. Not that my Chevy is a Honda. Worked in front of his building and it was a lot of Belgium, English and German plates Honda's. But I follow his work for a while now, he does a lot a brands. And I read a lot about the BBP tune. Already been @ van Drie Tuning and he can do all the adjustments I want for a better price then you, and he is 15 miles away. And when reading the PCM it literally says like GM abuse mode: ON/OFF. Torque management in % and for example can be set to 75%. Redline to 5900 in second gear. And these are all figures I got from reading reviews etc.

I'm all about doing things cheap or free where reasonable. So many waste lots of money on things they don't need or even want only because a seller's advertisement convinced them otherwise. Case in point- the aftermarket cold air intake that does exactly what the factory intake setup does. If you want it for the appearance and the expense is worth it to you, then get the pretty aftermarket one, ya know?

As far as your exhaust, you gotta keep it simple. You'd be hard pressed to find an aftermarket muffler with a 2.75" inlets or outlet. They'll pretty much all be 3" (or 2.5"...). You don't need an adapter to go from the factory 2.75" pipe to the new muffler's 3" inlet. Just slip the factory pipe into the muffler and weld it. It'll be a good fit. After the muffler, just cut out the Y-merge pipe and have a short elbow welded in. I believe that exit/tailpipe is 2.5". So, you'll need a 2.5"-to-3" adapter for that. Or, what I do, since I have to add a splice in anyway to make up the extra length, I use a piece of scrap factory 2.75" pipe inside the muffler's outlet, then the 2.5" pipe goes inside the 2.75" pipe. Makes for a nice transition that's made from stuff already on hand, so it costs nothing extra.

You can't overthink it. GM engineers have already done the hard thinking. All you're doing is changing the muffler to get the extra sound that they weren't allowed to have in their design. You cut out the muffler and weird Y-pipe stuff, and weld in a new muffler with regular pipe in it's place. Keep it simple.

I mean by not spending money is doing things like, got a bluetooth radio now. So going to remove the factory AMP, speakers in back doors since they don't have a function in my Chevy. Deleting the LPG system. If talking about parts, I want quality.

For my exhaust, I've had a topic about this already, measured everything 5 times because I was like wtf: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/i-have-the-most-strange-exhaust-dutch-tahoe.116586/

Here in the Netherlands it's not about decibels only. It is all about the Emissions per kilometer. This SUV is originally Dutch deliver, let alone for 19% taxes, he probably payed €25,000 euro's only to get Dutch plates on it. All I want to say, engines are not designed to give the most power, especially now a days.

And about keeping it simple, I will do it a little different, so it will be interchangeable with my stock muffler.

Yes! I forgot about the older ones having a mechanical fan.




An electric fan is a great upgrade and will free up power to be put towards the wheels, where it should be. It will also make your A/C work better when idling in traffic. @diLucca is correct, the models with electric fans have a different MIT. The Suburban and Yukon e-fans will be fine as long as they're not from a 2500. You'll need your tune to turn on the e-fan circuit in the PCM, so you'll need this before you do the swap.

Yes I know about the tune, something my tune will be able to do also. But as said above, need to do some research about this because of my smaller radiator, which did fine in the hottest summer we ever had in the Netherlands in 2018.

 

[diLucca]

One note for eFans, I forgot to mention you probably need a bigger Alternator.

 

[Tonny]

One note for eFans, I forgot to mention you probably need a bigger Alternator.

You can't be serious. How much is that thing using? It's not like a 500watt fan is it? Let me read the e-fan topic

 

[diLucca]

One fan will draw around 25-30Amp(there are two). HD fans draw around 40Amp for each.

If you have the bigger alternator(145A) you should be OK. If the smaller 105A may handle but not for long time.

 

[Tonny]

One fan will draw around 25-30Amp(there are two). HD fans draw around 40Amp for each.

If you have the bigger alternator(145A) you should be OK. If the smaller 105A may handle but not for long time.

I will check tomorrow. Everything is overkill on my Hoe so hope the alternator as well. Foe example have two ACs stock, one in the front and one in the back that was for the back passengers, or is that OEM on every Hoe? But prolly need a bigger radiator since I installed a smaller one after the stock one died. Wondering though if you just cannot make a bracket to put the fans over the smaller radiator... As is uses the radiator mounts normally, those mounts are still there, the smaller mounts are now used by the radiator.

 

[diLucca]

The smaller RAD uses mount holes/points of eFans(fan shroud), and may not fit with wide between left and right radiator hoses.

But you can still use efans from Corvette or Camaro if you install 28inch RAD. Or some aftermarket like Flex a Lite etc..

Edit: I live in Slovakia(near Vienna) I will install eFans only for better AC(i wear black) and for past experience with BMW and Mercedes when failed mech fan in 1st case destroy hoses and hood, and 2nd destroy water pump.
In my climate there is no need for eFans for temperature reason

 

[Tonny]

The smaller RAD uses mount holes/points of eFans(fan shroud), and may not fit with wide between left and right radiator hoses.

But you can still use efans from Corvette or Camaro if you install 28inch RAD. Or some aftermarket like Flex a Lite etc..

Great information! Lot of reading and learning to do, but I love it. So much possibilities and working my way to a proper build Tahoe, which will stand out in the Dutch Tahoe scene I think

EDIT: I had to modify the shroud, but is installed as stock on the stock mounting points. But you have a point about the hoses them self, who will probably be in the way. Well I guess I will find out some way or another..

 

[diLucca]

It is somehow hard and little expensive sometimes to make this "MONSTER" live in Europe, but it can be done.
If you have some QA about Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade/H2 just ask, if i can i will help in special EU things and also everyelse in this great forum.

This is how bigger ALT looks, it is wider as I marked in middle.

 

[Tonny]

It is somehow hard and little expensive sometimes to make this "MONSTER" live in Europe, but it can be done.
If you have some QA about Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade/H2 just ask, if i can i will help in special EU things and also everyelse in this great forum.

This is how bigger ALT looks, it is wider as I marked in middle.
View attachment 266689

It is somehow hard and little expensive sometimes to make this "MONSTER" live in Europe, but it can be done.
If you have some QA about Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade/H2 just ask, if i can i will help in special EU things and also everyelse in this great forum.

This is how bigger ALT looks, it is wider as I marked in middle.
View attachment 266689

Yes but sometimes you also need some patients. And now in corona time, advantaged can be made. And I'm using my cousin in America as well for sending parts since he can get discount at Fed Ex because he's a pilot. And since a week I've contact with another cousin (I've a big family) living in Mallorca, who is since a year or so restoring American and English classic cars. He sometimes orders a cargo with a car for example and put components in the car. Shipping in Europe is a lot cheaper. And now found a contact in Belgium for example. It's hard but not impossible. Thanks for the invite, same counts for you, maybe I can help you with shipping a part for example

Was to lazy to walk to my car, but found a photo of my custom shroud and alternator, what do you think?

Very busy with my new best friend lately, would love to start detailing my truck for ages, and have vacation now, but it keeps me more busy then a child hahah

 

[diLucca]

"maybe I can help you with shipping a part for example "

I take you word

Yes this radiator is for sure new and smaller. But ALT should be sufficient(if you dont have crazy stereo).
As for mod, if it work and does not overheat, than OK. I did similiar with heating hose for throttle body


Yea, dog can take more time than a child , with my wife we have little Biewer, as we cant have child, we love dogs.

 

[Tonny]

"maybe I can help you with shipping a part for example "

I take you word

Yes this radiator is for sure new and smaller. But ALT should be sufficient(if you dont have crazy stereo).
As for mod, if it work and does not overheat, than OK. I did similiar with heating hose for throttle body


Yea, dog can take more time than a child , with my wife we had little Biewer, as we cant have child, we love dogs.
View attachment 266693

But then a smaller e-fan assembly from a other car could be possible? Good to hear the alternator seems good enough. Will look up the part number tomorrow to be sure. My stereo is a Caliber Stereo + dab+ + bluetooth 4x75watt, conversion-set that included a 1-din bracket, or kinda in the middle of that. You can see in my build thread. Will remove the factory system and amplifier. Will only add two proper speakers in the doors and I'm installing a Pioneer TS-WX206A with a build in amplifier, max of 150watt. But I like to preserve my hearing and now especially don't want to hurt the dogs hearing so, not worried about that. I think the factory system takes way more current. Heavy cooled radio with amplifier, 8 speakers and a sub.

What a cute dog, you say we had or is the dog still with you? Sad to hear a child isn't possible.