Front diff has some major problems...what should I start doing?

[Derick]

So, I listed the burb. I cant stop throwing money into a hole in the ground. The damned of it now is that it's running pretty well. No exhaust noise, motor seems smooth as silk, trans is fine. The body is right at the edge of erupting, which is sad...

Last year I did a oil change of the front diff, and it was a metal slurry in there.

I change it again last weekend when I did the hub/bearing installed...and it's more metal.

I have no noise or problematic symptons....yet. So what should I plan to do with the diff? Should i source one from a junkyard, are there rebuild kits? Obviously, thriftiness is core here.

 

[swathdiver]

So, I listed the burb. I cant stop throwing money into a hole in the ground. The damned of it now is that it's running pretty well. No exhaust noise, motor seems smooth as silk, trans is fine. The body is right at the edge of erupting, which is sad...

Last year I did a oil change of the front diff, and it was a metal slurry in there.

I change it again last weekend when I did the hub/bearing installed...and it's more metal.

I have no noise or problematic symptons....yet. So what should I plan to do with the diff? Should i source one from a junkyard, are there rebuild kits? Obviously, thriftiness is core here.

Derick, if you sell her, you've done all the work for the next guy and didn't get to enjoy the fruits of your labor. I'm of mind to rebuild the differential but it certainly would be easier to get a good one out of the boneyard and swap it out.

I look at it this way (and did before purchase), I paid $17K for a $62K dollar truck (2107 dollars) and the trade off I accepted were the occasional repairs and maintenance that the guy before me paid the big bucks to avoid. I don't mind being that guy, I've enjoyed being that guy, but right now I'm not that guy! hehehe So, I drive a great high dollar truck and fix things as they come up to maintain what the Lord gave me.

 

[OR VietVet]

I'm with @swathdiver on this one. If you are selling anyway and it is making no noise and it is going to have 160+ miles on it at the sale, it is what it is for the next buyer. If it bothers you, you can share what you did and what you saw in the old fluid, both times, and then you can feel better but spending more money on something that at this time works and makes no noise, well I just would not do it.

 

[RockGlock86]

Before my Yukon I had a 2000 2500 6.0 and the T-case was getting sloppy and rattled alot, I was about head to Texas for work for a few months and figured throw a junkyard case in it and call it good. It lasted about 6k miles and the rear output bearing disintegrated and blew out the back of the case on the highway. I have used yard parts several times tho before and after and had decent results, but there is always the chance its beat.

 

[thompsoj22]

My opinion would be to opt for the rebuild, Once the diff is removed from the vehicle the case "splits" on teardown and would be a fun/manageable rework on a bench in the garage. I have not done this task but when it is my turn to be faced with the same situation ill rebuild it. From what i have seen in other threads the front diff is a weak point so the salvage yard is less likely to produce good units with reliable miles remaining?

 

[OR VietVet]

My opinion would be to opt for the rebuild, Once the diff is removed from the vehicle the case "splits" on teardown and would be a fun/manageable rework on a bench in the garage. I have not done this task but when it is my turn to be faced with the same situation ill rebuild it. From what i have seen in other threads the front diff is a weak point so the salvage yard is less likely to produce good units with reliable miles remaining?

Are your mechanical abilities good enough to rebuild gears? I been turning wrenches for lots of years and I don't have that talent. If you do, I envy you.

 

[thompsoj22]

Are your mechanical abilities good enough to rebuild gears? I been turning wrenches for lots of years and I don't have that talent. If you do, I envy you.

I have never done it, But my job keeps me current in measuring tolerance/backlash/trueness. Im a helo mech and measure drivetrain regularly so i have no apprehension of the "unknown", F'it, It's only nuts and bolts and you would probably do it better yourself as you cant allways count on the "experienced mech" that you pay good money for their experience to be having a good day, Or not having a monday or friday attitude. The only setback would be the tooling for measuring pinion depth. Gear lash is simple and from a tolerance standpoint very forgiving in regard to "automotive differentials" IMO

 

[Derick]

I started looking around, and it looks like the front diff replacement is about 1300 bucks. Not too bad really.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006DUJSF...wVehicle=1&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

If I budget ahead of time, I can make that happen in a couple of pay cycles, and I'd like to do that sooner rather than later so it doesnt leave me stranded. This ATP unit comes with a 5 year warranty, which is pretty great.

 

[OR VietVet]

This one from RA is $753.79 plus $400 core charge

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8805384&cc=1380372&jsn=1045&jsn=1045

 

[thompsoj22]

This one from RA is $753.79 plus $400 core charge

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8805384&cc=1380372&jsn=1045&jsn=1045

great price for plug and play. unfortunate there are two axles that might as well be done simutaneous and add's a big additional cost. im not being negative but to install high mileage axles on a new diff would be regretful.

 

[Derick]

This one from RA is $753.79 plus $400 core charge

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8805384&cc=1380372&jsn=1045&jsn=1045

Hmm two year warranty....

 

[Rocket Man]

RA has some pretty good deals/ warranties on rebuilt diffs, tc’s, trans etc.

 

[George B]

I have researched this subject a bit. The one from Rock auto is likely to be my choice. The warranty and price look pretty good to me. I know ATP and Jasper also do remans but on the ATP you need to swap over your stub shafts. Not sure on the jasper but I know the price is up there.

I have considered a salvage yard unit tho too.

 

[Doubeleive]

economy choice- junkyard, just look for one that looks like it may have been resealed already I wouldn't worry about the axles those are cheap if one needed to be done later
most junkyards will give you at least a little warranty so if it happens to be bad out of the gate no big deal

 

[Derick]

ive already got brand new CVs on.

 

[George B]

Did some more shopping around. Around here a used one will cost around $450.00 with a 6 month warranty. The one from RockAuto is a 2 year or 12,000 mile warranty for $736.00.

If I was sending it down the road I would do a junk yard but if keeping it I would do the rock auto one.

 

[thompsoj22]

economy choice- junkyard, just look for one that looks like it may have been resealed already I wouldn't worry about the axles those are cheap if one needed to be done later
most junkyards will give you at least a little warranty so if it happens to be bad out of the gate no big deal

where do you source "cheap" axles? How cheap? Do you think they would last 100k miles? Im in, cause oem are mucho denaro $$$$$$

 

[thompsoj22]

economy choice- junkyard, just look for one that looks like it may have been resealed already I wouldn't worry about the axles those are cheap if one needed to be done later
most junkyards will give you at least a little warranty so if it happens to be bad out of the gate no big deal

 

[Doubeleive]

where do you source "cheap" axles? How cheap? Do you think they would last 100k miles? Im in, cause oem are mucho denaro $$$$$$

new oem ones are $259 at rockauto, $57 for a re-manufactured cardone with lifetime warranty
the oem ones on my 00 never had to be replaced and I drove the literal piss out of it past 300k

 

[Linderov]

So, I listed the burb. I cant stop throwing money into a hole in the ground. The damned of it now is that it's running pretty well. No exhaust noise, motor seems smooth as silk, trans is fine. The body is right at the edge of erupting, which is sad...

Last year I did a oil change of the front diff, and it was a metal slurry in there.

I change it again last weekend when I did the hub/bearing installed...and it's more metal.

I have no noise or problematic symptons....yet. So what should I plan to do with the diff? Should i source one from a junkyard, are there rebuild kits? Obviously, thriftiness is core here.

If you can drive something else while the truck is in for repairs, financially it will never make sense to buy another truck. Do the math on the cost of the new vehicle compared to these repairs and you will see. If you like this, then just fix it. Math says never sell a vehicle that suits you needs. Literally anything can be fixed, unless of course it is in a wreck.

Also be sure to include insurance costs for the new vehicle, and body work, interior upgrades to keep your truck decent.

I did a spreadsheet on my truck after some expensive repairs and it was really quite clear I should get a Mustang convertible with the money I saved!!!

 

[Derick]

Well seeing the posts about the front diff at RA for 750 bucks is really the way to go. Not nearly the major expense I was expecting.

What disappoints me is that the body is starting to go down hill. So, I'll have to determine what I want to do in that regard. Fight a losing battle, or just lean into the rust rot.