Occasional front end pops/clunks - CV Axle?

[DaveO9]

2013 Tahoe, LT, 4wd. I'm getting occasional front-end pops or light clunks during low speed turns. Both left and right - I can hear it at the respective wheels. More likely to happen if it's a full lock turn, like getting in or out of a tight parking space. I recently replaced inner and outer tie rods, thinking that was the problem. No change. Upper and lower control arms were done within the last year or so, and did sway bar end links and strut assemblies then too. I remember the clunks before that. Had alignments both after replacing control arms and after tie rods a year later. I'm typically in 2wd when I notice the clunks.

Since the clunk is at the wheels, it seems like only thing left is CV joints? Is this a typical problem with our rigs? There might be some very light, high frequency vibration at the steering wheel at 35 mph and above. But very slight. Boots are all in good shape, metal band clamps all intact. And when I had them out for the work mentioned above, all the joints seemed solid and tight to me.

 

[rdezs]

I would replace both CV axles, and probably the front hubs while I was in there depending on your mileage.

Also check your front differential mounting bolts and the bushings.

Also want to check your calipers, make sure everything is sliding well. Me.... I tend to do things while I'm in there.... At least new calipers and pads, flexible brake lines.... And rotors.

 

[swathdiver]

2013 Tahoe, LT, 4wd. I'm getting occasional front-end pops or light clunks during low speed turns. Both left and right - I can hear it at the respective wheels. More likely to happen if it's a full lock turn, like getting in or out of a tight parking space. I recently replaced inner and outer tie rods, thinking that was the problem. No change. Upper and lower control arms were done within the last year or so, and did sway bar end links and strut assemblies then too. I remember the clunks before that. Had alignments both after replacing control arms and after tie rods a year later. I'm typically in 2wd when I notice the clunks.

Since the clunk is at the wheels, it seems like only thing left is CV joints? Is this a typical problem with our rigs? There might be some very light, high frequency vibration at the steering wheel at 35 mph and above. But very slight. Boots are all in good shape, metal band clamps all intact. And when I had them out for the work mentioned above, all the joints seemed solid and tight to me.

There's a fella with a Sierra Denali having the same issue right now over at the Silverado/Sierra forum and also posted to GM-Trucks where I first saw it. No solution yet.

https://www.silveradosierra.com/threads/front-passenger-side-clunk.776132/?post_id=7578833#post-7578833

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/275129-front-passenger-side-suspension-clunk/

Since you have also replaced a lot of stuff under there, I would get the wheels off and pull out the torque wrench after doing a thorough visual inspection.

 

[DaveO9]

Thanks for the responses.

I would replace both CV axles, and probably the front hubs while I was in there depending on your mileage.

Also check your front differential mounting bolts and the bushings.

Also want to check your calipers, make sure everything is sliding well. Me.... I tend to do things while I'm in there.... At least new calipers and pads, flexible brake lines.... And rotors.

Yes definitely thinking about the CV axles. With what though? It seems like there are a lot of horror stories with aftermarket (any brand) CV axles. OEM is a possibility, but would be a big chunk of change, when I'm not 100% sure there's anything wrong with the existing ones. I've seen a few recommendations in other threads and sites to go with used OEM. I looked on LKQ online and could probably do both sides with 100k mile axles for less than $200. Thinking about that route.

Hubs are new and calipers and pads are in great shape with everything sliding well. I've replaced front diff twice in two years. Ratio change was first time, but that unit from LKQ had bad bearings so I swapped it out again. Regretting not replacing the mounts at that time. Could those be causing an occasional pop sound at tight turns?

There's a fella with a Sierra Denali having the same issue right now over at the Silverado/Sierra forum and also posted to GM-Trucks where I first saw it. No solution yet.

https://www.silveradosierra.com/threads/front-passenger-side-clunk.776132/?post_id=7578833#post-7578833

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/275129-front-passenger-side-suspension-clunk/

Since you have also replaced a lot of stuff under there, I would get the wheels off and pull out the torque wrench after doing a thorough visual inspection.

Yeah he definitely sounds like he has a problem. Mine is way way less. I wouldn't be able to get a video since it's so infrequent and just a single pop or clunk. I agree that checking things out with a torque wrench is a good idea. I was thinking about driving it up on ramps and loosening control arm mount bolts and then re-torquing while suspension is under load. Thoughts?

 

[rdezs]

It could definitely be the differential Mount bushings. When you installed it, did you torque them down to specs? There is a lot of lateral force on those when turning sharp.

On my wife's Escalade, I decided to try some aftermarket CV axles. Swapped hers out only because of preventative maintenance while going through her front suspension and brakes. I think I paid about $190 for a pair on RockAuto. Don't recall what the brand was, but no issues and they still look new 40,000 miles later.

Also regarding torque specs.... If you lowered the steering rack to remove the oil pan at any point, the bolts that hold the steering rack are crucial to be torqued properly. You might check those. If I remember correctly, the two larger bolts were something like 148 ft lb. Smaller ones were about 75 ft lb foot pounds I think.

The same goes for the crossmember that gets dropped when removing the oil pan. If the bolts are loose on either side, you can get some movement with the frame flexing that could cause some noise when turning.

 

[LegalBrief]

Sway bar bushings, and end links… nothing to do with CV.. sway bars flex in turns

 

[rdezs]

Definitely. Everything bolted down to the front end is a suspect while clunking when turning sharp. With the CV joints, it's a matter of wear inside the joint itself.... Not due to flexing of course, but rather the sharp angle of the joint.

 

[swathdiver]

I was thinking about driving it up on ramps and loosening control arm mount bolts and then re-torquing while suspension is under load. Thoughts?

I read that such is best to do with the vehicle level. If your driveway is sloped, back in and drive onto the ramps so that she is level when on the ramps, or nearly so. I do this when a little extra clearance is needed for my gut!

 

[DaveO9]

It could definitely be the differential Mount bushings. When you installed it, did you torque them down to specs? There is a lot of lateral force on those when turning sharp.

On my wife's Escalade, I decided to try some aftermarket CV axles. Swapped hers out only because of preventative maintenance while going through her front suspension and brakes. I think I paid about $190 for a pair on RockAuto. Don't recall what the brand was, but no issues and they still look new 40,000 miles later.

Also regarding torque specs.... If you lowered the steering rack to remove the oil pan at any point, the bolts that hold the steering rack are crucial to be torqued properly. You might check those. If I remember correctly, the two larger bolts were something like 148 ft lb. Smaller ones were about 75 ft lb foot pounds I think.

The same goes for the crossmember that gets dropped when removing the oil pan. If the bolts are loose on either side, you can get some movement with the frame flexing that could cause some noise when turning.

I'll go through everything and re-torque. I did drop the oil pan recently and had to lower the steering rack to do so. But I also remember looking up those torque values and torquing to spec.

I read that such is best to do with the vehicle level. If your driveway is sloped, back in and drive onto the ramps so that she is level when on the ramps, or nearly so. I do this when a little extra clearance is needed for my gut!

LOL, my driveway is so sloped the back end would probably be higher doing it your way! I have a less sloped area, but I could also just put the front on ramps in my shop, and then put the rear on jack stands to get it level.