The BEST exhaust manifold bolts?

[Rocket Man]

Buuuut... What does he mean by "best"? Strongest? Best for the application? Least likely to gall?

I agree with you but you know I had to troll.

ARP are all the above, plus you’ll even look better behind the wheel, much more handsome , younger and thinner.

 

[iamdub]

ARP are all the above, plus you’ll even look better behind the wheel, much more handsome , younger and thinner.

Speaking of more handsome, younger, thinner and to add a tangent-

Q: What's the BEST exhaust manifold hardware?

A: Studs!

 

[George B]

If it was me, I would replace them with ARP bolts. They should all come out ok at that mileage/ hours, I would soak them with PB Blaster for a couple days first. If one or two break you have options like I said. But of course there’s always a chance you’ll break a couple and it’s also pretty much guaranteed some will break on their own if you do nothing. Damned if you do, damned if you don’t. If they all come out like mine did, it’s one less thing to worry about.

Use a punch and hammer to tap inward on each bolt head a few times. You just wanna shock it, not crack the head. Then use a small impact while barely pulling the trigger and easing into it to slowly shock 'em loose when backing out rather than just torquing on them with a socket or wrench. If you don't have such an impact or (likely in this case) cant fit on in there, a box end wrench and a small hammer works great.

Either way, I'd take advantage of the low mileage on them to replace/upgrade while your chances are better.

Still gives me anxiety. It will likely be a huge disaster.

 

[George B]

Looks like my air ratchet will reach them all easily from the top. That lil guy gives just the right pulsing force. Maybe with a week or two of soaking them they would come out.

 

[iamdub]

Looks like my air ratchet will reach them all easily from the top. That lil guy gives just the right pulsing force. Maybe with a week or two of soaking them they would come out.

Air ratchets don't give the shocking effect an impact does. But, you don't wanna use an impact that you'd hammer off lug nuts with. I'd do it by hand- tap on the bolt heads a few times then with a box end wrench. I always start out tapping a few times to the right (tightening). Not enough that you actually turn or can see it turn cuz if it turns, then it's not seized and will come right out anyway. You can even try using a socket that fits over the entire bolt head and whack that a few times. This will shock the flange of the manifold around the bolt head in case the underside of the head has rusted to it a little. It's all just little things to do 'just in case' before you go straight to torquing on the bolt.

FWIW, I just tapped each of my bolts with the round end of a ball peen hammer before trying and they came straight out. Rust/corrosion doesn't exist here, though.

 

[George B]

You did say what’s the best. ARP is the best there is. Their exhaust manifold bolts are chromoly. But of course not just any chromoly:
ARP manufactures fasteners from a wide assortment of materials ranging from popular stainless steel and 8740 chrome moly to exotic alloys that have been developed to handle space travel.

You should also know that there are grades within specific alloys. For example, 8740 is available in four grades:

1. SDF (guaranteed seamless and defect free).
2. CHQ (cold head quality).
3. Aircraft.
4. Commercial.

ARP uses only the first two (SDF and CHQ), even though they cost more than double “Aircraft” quality.






https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-1102


View attachment 251021

Does this kit work with the stock manifolds?

 

[Rocket Man]

Does this kit work with the stock manifolds?

Yes, stock or headers.

 

[George B]

Air ratchets don't give the shocking effect an impact does. But, you don't wanna use an impact that you'd hammer off lug nuts with. I'd do it by hand- tap on the bolt heads a few times then with a box end wrench. I always start out tapping a few times to the right (tightening). Not enough that you actually turn or can see it turn cuz if it turns, then it's not seized and will come right out anyway. You can even try using a socket that fits over the entire bolt head and whack that a few times. This will shock the flange of the manifold around the bolt head in case the underside of the head has rusted to it a little. It's all just little things to do 'just in case' before you go straight to torquing on the bolt.

FWIW, I just tapped each of my bolts with the round end of a ball peen hammer before trying and they came straight out. Rust/corrosion doesn't exist here, though.

Solid advice here. I have used the tap on it or rattle it trick many times with great success.

It is the back ones on each side that scare me. If one is gonna break it will be one of them.

 

[Rocket Man]

Thos

Solid advice here. I have used the tap on it or rattle it trick many times with great success.

It is the back ones on each side that scare me. If one is gonna break it will be one of them.

Those were actually pretty loose on mine. The passenger side was so loose I thought it was broken at first. Of course you might not be so lucky, who knows.

 

[George B]

Thos

Those were actually pretty loose on mine. The passenger side was so loose I thought it was broken at first. Of course you might not be so lucky, who knows.

Only one way to find out. Probably not until after our August vacation. I can say that I have had three of the bolts out and back in so theres that.

 

[Rocket Man]

Only one way to find out. Probably not until after our August vacation. I can say that I have had three of the bolts out and back in so theres that.

Well that’s 1/4 of them.

 

[George B]

Well that’s 1/4 of them.

Yup, but neither of the back two. You know the ones you cant get a straight shot at through the wheel well. And how about that dip stick issue. I need to get that out too right?

 

[swathdiver]

I've never had luck finding an actual part number from ARP for my motor.

 

[Rocket Man]

Yup, but neither of the back two. You know the ones you cant get a straight shot at through the wheel well. And how about that dip stick issue. I need to get that out too right?

Not just to replace bolts. If you’re replacing the manifold then yes. At least on my 4.8 LY2. And as far as listing them for your engine @swathdiver they just list them for LS engines. It’s kind of confusing since they say “Gen III/ LS” but afaik Gen3/Gen 4 use the same exhaust manifold bolts and I’m also pretty sure ARP says LS as in all LS engines.

 

[Rocket Man]

https://arp-bolts.com/kits/make.php?_Make=303&_EngModelID=*

 

[George B]

Not just to replace bolts. If you’re replacing the manifold then yes. At least on my 4.8 LY2. And as far as listing them for your engine @swathdiver they just list them for LS engines. It’s kind of confusing since they say “Gen III/ LS” but afaik Gen3/Gen 4 use the same exhaust manifold bolts and I’m also pretty sure ARP says LS as in all LS engines.

Thanks, gonna think on it for a bit. The bolt kit is cheap enough to be worthwhile insurance.

 

[iamdub]

It’s kind of confusing since they say “Gen III/ LS” but afaik Gen3/Gen 4 use the same exhaust manifold bolts and I’m also pretty sure ARP says LS as in all LS engines.

Affirmative. All the same.

 

[iamdub]

I've never had luck finding an actual part number from ARP for my motor.

134-1102 or 134-1202

 

[Rocket Man]

I went with the 134-1102 6-pt, the 134-1202 are 12-pt heads.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

I have two broken bolts. I installed the "brackets" as the solution. The reading I've done on this indicates the OEM replacement bolts installed correctly are a good reliable fix. I think it was mentioned the OEM bolt design is changed for better durability. To get the old broken bolts out will probably take an experienced mechanic with e.g. a welder.