These goodyear eagle sport tires work really good, there not 60k mile tires but they sure do stick to the road I have to try really hard to even get a chirp out of themToo fast for me! I don't like driving fast in the rain myself.
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These goodyear eagle sport tires work really good, there not 60k mile tires but they sure do stick to the road I have to try really hard to even get a chirp out of themToo fast for me! I don't like driving fast in the rain myself.
ya, I should upgrade somedayAre you running the stock driveshafts?
I personally really want to have some lightweight CV ones madeya, I should upgrade someday
I personally really want to have some lightweight CV ones madeya, I should upgrade someday
I remember on my S10 there were 4 U joints a slip joint, and a carrier bearing I think its called. I’m curious what the dealieo is with the gmt900.if I can find somewhere to just order one without having to go out and measure my existing one that would be nice
Driveshaft Flange maybe? Unless these trucks just use those U brackets that bolt over the U joint to connect it to the pinion flange?I remember on my S10 there were 4 U joints a slip joint, and a carrier bearing I think its called. I’m curious what the dealieo is with the gmt900.
M6-1.00, T25 Torx head
Got some moisture in the headlight. Those lights aftermarket? So much nicer with that grill.
Did you put some silicone in the threads too? Just a "Just in case" scenario.Appreciate you dawg. I knew you knew the size and the search in here was jacked today. Silicone wore off from the car wash scrubbers I guess so got some stainless screws and gasket washers installed. May not be the perfection expected around here but I’ll take function over a soaked leaking headliner.
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I want to do both shafts with nice lightweight aluminum cv driveshafts. Less rotating mass, no rust, and they wouldn't have the lub/dub that u joints have that cancel eachother out. Would be neat to have them greaseable too.There is a place about 50 miles from me that makes them I would probably have to drive it over there so they can take some accurate measurements since mine is AWD I presume they would need to do the front as well
You mean around the bulb sockets? Yeah. And the lens perimeter. Not sure where else to put it really.Did you put some silicone in the threads too? Just a "Just in case" scenario.
Yup. The original ones had seen 13 years, were very pitted and had condensation inside. I replaced them with the $100 eBay special and guess what... condensation almost immediately. I have removed them and caulked them with silicone. TWICE. And the driver's one is still getting in water from somewhere... ugh...
Did you put the silicone completely around--on the back side? Also put some dialectic grease--or even silicone--around the gaskets that's around the bulbs-- pops into the back of the lens. Alot of times the aftermarket lights use crappy gaskets.Yup. The original ones had seen 13 years, were very pitted and had condensation inside. I replaced them with the $100 eBay special and guess what... condensation almost immediately. I have removed them and caulked them with silicone. TWICE. And the driver's one is still getting in water from somewhere... ugh...
I just pull all the bulbs and heat the oven to 270, turn it off, and put them in for 7 minutes, just like I do when I’m baking them open. Once they’re dry, they’re dry.First off...i like that grill. I was actually thinking to myself after washing mine the other day if there was an option to remove that chrome....now i might get one haha.
As far as the condensation, its probably left over from when it got in the first time. I know its a pain in the ass but if you pull the headlight, pull the bulbs and let it completely dry out ( warming it with a heat gun would help ) it will keep condensating. When I did my retrofit and got water in, they would fog up when it would rain and the lights were on. A few hours later they would be fine. So i heated em up, squished them with a clamp, added some screws and bam...still fogged up!! damn it!! But when I got up close and looked, there was actual water between the lens and that trim piece that has the chrome running light cover. So I opened them up again ( had too anyway ) took the bezel off, and wiped all the water out, adjusted, resealed and I ve have been good since then. Even have been driving through huge puddles on purpose trying to get water in and nothing. It kinda sucks but you gotta get any water thats in them, out!!

Nothing dries them out like the oven method, and if the first time doesn’t do it and there’s visible condensation still- let it cool down and do it a second time. The problem with using a hair dryer or heat gun is that there’s so many places for water to hide inside and you can’t get the hot air to flow over every nook and cranny.It could definitely be leftover water from the first couple of times I sealed it. I did run a blowdryer into each light for 10 minutes, and I shook them around and didn't get any water out. Also yes, I put silicone around the bulb gaskets.
I'm going to keep a watch on them for the next few weeks. If the driver's side is the only one that fogs up, I'll re-seal in once it gets hotter outside. If both steam up, I'm not even bothering...
Anzo’s aren’t they? That’s the brand of my U-bar headlights on my Denali. They have them. I never knew they were there until I was retrofitting a set and saw them from the inside of the housing.Those new U bar headlights I put on my Yukon has those rectangular areas with those gore-tex patches
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18