Morimoto MH1 Bi-Xenon Retrofit in Tahoe - Build Thread - FINISHED

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Geoffsfas10

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OK...so since I was being a turd in the General thread about tahoes, Im making a in progress build thread of my HID retrofit.

Little backstory...had Sierra with OEM Denali headlights, retrofited those with MH15.0 projectors and loved it. Drove behind that for the better part of 10 years. Got new tahoe, halogen reflectors are the suck. Tried LEDs, didnt like the fitment and still no cutoff.

SO... I started the retrofit research. TONS of info on the yukons, but not as much on tahoes. I was originally planning to go with a D2S projector or even the MLED projectors, but after some measuring and planning, there was LOTS of cutting involved. Not that I have a problem with that, but was wanting to minimize it. Enter the MH1 projector...again. So the newest version is the 7.0, which has a better bi-xenon solenoid, more width and sharper cut off. It also like other Morimoto projectors, has a threaded shaft for installation. However, the MH1 is supposed to be more bolt in ready, so its shaft is much thinner in diameter, as a direct replacement for an H7 bulb opening. I tried finding the details but it came back as the H7 base was just a slightly larger hole then the H11 as our low beams. With this being known, I ordered a bunch of stuff and some ebay headlights.

The ebay headlights opened easy enough, 200* for 10 minutes, one cracked right open, using boddy panel tools, and the other one took a second heating for about 5 minutes before it gave up. Now, with the headlights open, i tried to see if the shaft would just walk in, and it was close. So all I had to do was clip off the glare deflector, file it a little more evenly, and then using a round file, I worked the bulb opening til the shaft fit through.

49510630043_3fa4d78fa5_b.jpg
20200204_185403 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

Projector sits right in there. Since the headlight access on these trucks is a royal PITA, i tried doing as much rotational alignement and height adjustment as I could in my basement. Using my computer desk, a bright ass LED flashlight and the same technique for aiming headlights, I rotated them and did a preliminary aim in my basement. Come to find out later, this worked out awesome.

49510630528_8290a1dfd5_b.jpg
20200209_092603 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

This shows the base of the shaft through the opened bulb opening with the lock nut in its final tighened position. I tighened these as tight as i could go, but still allow for some slight rotational movement so i could double check on the tahoe. Once I was good, i held the projector and tighened it down the rest of the way. Dont so super crazy getting it tight, dont want to break the reflector. These are very sturdy and solid in their final tightness in the housing.

I also used the mounting hole for the glare deflector as my pass through for the high beam wires, then they are just poked through the rubber grommet on the back side here. I will show the complete rear assembly when Im finished with it.

49511365482_ce4132074b_b.jpg
20200205_192200 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

So at this point I was at test fit time. I found a simple trick of removing the 6 bolts across the top of the grill allows the bumper cover to drop down just enough that the entire operation of test fitting, including tool gathering, removal, install, temp wiring and reset to stock and cleanup, took only about 45 minutes.

I was expecting the worst when I went to offer these lights up to the truck, since that freaking radiator support is right there by the bulb and the single best thing I could have hoped for happened....THEY FIT!! The MH1 is compact enough that even using the Moto1 bulb holders ( which I will show in another post ) they still clear the supports and allow for the best alignment of the H1 HID.

49510628613_ae5fdcf454_b.jpg
20200208_150301 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

So with them on the truck, I turned the headlights on and....

49511367372_c354b97e5c_b.jpg
20200208_152713 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

Oh buddy! the cutoff is awesome, they matched perfectly for rotational alignment and the heights were close enough that some readjusting with the alignment screws they will be even. Im not going to post my inital cut off pictures, because they arent aimed yet and thats the best part, gotta wait til its night and its not in my garage but let me tell ya. The factory beams were about 2' wide on the wall at this distance in my garage and they werent touching each other. The projectors were both beams touching, and the far side of the drivers side was almost touching that red snow shovel handle you see bending around in that picture, which is about 10' away from the truck.

These are going to be awesome, im super pumped and this retro has been SUPER easy. I kinda screwed up trimming the E46 extended shields a little bit, but i made a on the flay change that I think will work out ok, especially since they are jb welded in place now. All I am waiting for now is some time to bake the lights again, put the lenses back on and my high beam splitters to arrive, i forgot to order them the first go around.

My plan is to find a good place this week and take some OEM suck pictures, and then go back out in a week or two with the HIDs and take the same shots. We all know its going to be 1000% better but we still want to see it.
 
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Geoffsfas10

Geoffsfas10

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Looks like the easiest and fastest retrofit ever. Thanks for the write up! Looking forward to the money shot.

Oh, and the requisite materials and price list. :D

Its been SUPER easy, I maybe have 4 hours into all of it so far and thats worst case. If I had all my stuff together and a solid block of time not being bothered by the kids and dogs, i could easily see this being done in a single day/afternoon.

Far materials -

These headlights
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-07-14-CHEVY-TAHOE-SUBURBAN-BLACK-HOUSING-AMBER-CORNER-HEADLIGHT-HEAD-LAMPS/382810700635?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=0b068c54426b4919be9ccd9ac992a10f&pid=100675&rk=4&rkt=15&mehot=pp&sd=233361648117&itm=382810700635&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:1c3e7899-4b59-11ea-89a2-74dbd180c62a|parentrq:2ac749aa1700a9c4c0cbb878fff5c448|iid:1

Thought I will say, the socket openings for the turn signals and such didnt fit worth a damn, so I had to modify them. I also got these because the bottom trim piece above the turn signal and DRL is blacked out and not chrome, its a little detail that I like.

This is the projector kit

https://www.lightwerkz.net/index.ph...al-kit/bi-xenon-morimoto-mini-stage-3-h1.html

with the moto1 bulb holders, 5500 K bulbs, E46-R extended shrouds ( dont know if I use them again, maybe the mini gattling gun ), 35w ballasts and the relay harness.

9005 - 9005/9006 high beam splitters
https://www.lightwerkz.net/index.ph...s/wiring-accessories/high-beam-splitters.html

This way you can use the stock high beams AND the high beam function of the projector, not required by why wouldnt you?!?1

Ands thats pretty much it. I cant post a real price since I got the HID components during a sale and they were 25% off, saved like 72 bucks, and then the ebay headlights i looked at them and added to watch list, then they emailed me and said I had a offer for 5% off the price so I got them at that point. So i THINK im in this under $400 currently. Granted I already own switchbacks and stuff from my Sierra so that cost isnt in here.
 

Rocket Man

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Sweet. I used their mini H1 7.0 projectors on my Silvy retrofits with similar ease. Obviously just make sure everything is 100% before putting the headlights back together. One of my demon eyes kinda messed up after a year and I had to bake them back open to access it so I’m in the process of remaking a new set of lights with a few changes.
 
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Geoffsfas10

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Yesterday my high beam splitters and replacement bulb holder showed up. SO i spent a little time with the heat gun, warming and evening the existing butyl sealant in the headlight channels, as well as adding all my new retro-rubber into the channels. so they are all fully gooped up with sealant and ready for one last alignment checked, then a final assembly. Plan is to do that this weekend. Then might be able to wash the truck and get some good pictures. There will be beam photos as well.
 
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Geoffsfas10

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Well...the retro is finished and on the truck. Will take a short first drive tonight and get some output shots but for now, here's the rest of the build info.

This is what the Moto1 bulb holder looks like, and if you do a MH1 retrofit...100% buy these. They allow for a positive bulb alignment every single time, which the H1 bulb is hard to get seated right with the stupid spring clips. Now, originally I thought these did clear with no modifications, but you are still going to have to cut :( However, they are SO close to fitting that all I had to cut what the 2 layers of sheet metal in front of the actual support, it was a pain in the ass with a dremel, I think if I were to do it again, i could get a hole saw and just use that to notch out the section needed to clear.

49540249311_70595cd9b9_b.jpg
20200215_105411 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

Here is the back of the headlight with everything in place. you can see the high beam splitters are connected to the OEM harness and go to the high beam bulb and the shield solenoid

49540249901_fe233c694b_b.jpg
20200215_105356 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

And here, is the first picture of a completed and assembled headlight

49540248906_412efc0627_b.jpg
20200215_105510 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

Im pretty pleased with how they turned out. I like that these delete the chrome bar across the tops of the turn signal bulbs, just cleans it up IMO. However I would be lying if I didnt tell you that I was inspired by this look after seeing a picture of them on a truck on here, that I could not find after i saw it the first time.

So...into the garage and assembly.

Everyone here knows this headlight...

49540247661_5c7a0633b2_b.jpg
20200215_101035 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

nice looks but poor performance ( also please ignore my garage...winter is not kind to it and theres s@#$ everywhere )

49540247226_8f483243e0_b.jpg
20200215_101251 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

Pre-aiming them

49540250351_4bf918187f_b.jpg
20200215_103358 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

Oh yes...look at that beautiful wide, bright white light with that sharp cutoff....mmmmmmm. And thats all the output shots for now, Im going to go drive it a bit tonight but probably wont get around to them til tomorrow.

Moving on, heres what they look like on the truck and in their final stage.

49540472972_fc059ec8d7_b.jpg
20200215_145823 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

49539756103_6d4b01e9c1_b.jpg
20200215_145145 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

49540251856_b89048b905_b.jpg
20200215_145139 by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

Like I said, overall im happy. These aftermarket lights dont quiet fit as well as the stock lights, the side fender gap is about double what the stop gap is but its not enough to bother me. The output reward for out does the minor flaws. Anyway..thats my build. Please ask me any questions and wait for the final output shots with my proper DSLR.

Oh, final words on light mods, I will be doing the wiring to make the fogs stay on with the highs, this annoys me they dont. Fogs are also the Morimoto XB LED replacement housings. Also have switchbacks in the turn signals, not sure if im going to bring them to the DRL spot or not just yet. For now, this is just the stock high beam bulb.
 

Rocket Man

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Nice job. You can probably close those gaps by modifying the holes for the bolts by the fenders and that lets them move back a little on the sides.
 
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Geoffsfas10

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**.LY. Hell.

49540771606_d5ceb59d22_b.jpg
light pattern by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

from the sunroof by Geoff Anderson, on Flickr

The 7.0s ROCK!!! I do, unfortunately, need to adjust the pass side projector, while it looks fine on the wall, its pointing too far over to the drivers side. Loosing a little width with that and getting a really hot center step hot spot because they both meet there, but its good enough for now.
 

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Wow, they look incredible. Nicely done.
Makes me rethink going the retrofit route again. Especially with how easy they were to install.

The assemblies fit with no cutting?
Did you use any type of adhesive to hold them or was the nut enough?
 

Dantheman1540

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Man those look awesome! So many people out there tinting their headlights and tail lights making driving more dangerous. Glad to see people still like to see where they are going and be seen! :headbang:
 
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Geoffsfas10

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Wow, they look incredible. Nicely done.
Makes me rethink going the retrofit route again. Especially with how easy they were to install.

The assemblies fit with no cutting?
Did you use any type of adhesive to hold them or was the nut enough?

There no cutting done to the housings themselves. You will have to enlarge the bulb opening hole ever so slightly to get the shaft to come through, but it took all of 5 minutes with a file to get them to fit. I feel pretty confident that the nut on the shaft will hold them in place. the nut is aluminum, so when you crank it down to tightness, it deforms slightly which locks itself in place.

You do need to cut on the radiator support behind the lights just a tiny amount, theres part of the inner fender metal thats folded back onto it, and they dont clear by just the thickness of the metal...BOO!!! It was sooo close haha. I'd take a picture of that but it looks terrible and i dont what to show that until i can clean it up with a grinder or something
 

992dr

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There no cutting done to the housings themselves. You will have to enlarge the bulb opening hole ever so slightly to get the shaft to come through, but it took all of 5 minutes with a file to get them to fit. I feel pretty confident that the nut on the shaft will hold them in place. the nut is aluminum, so when you crank it down to tightness, it deforms slightly which locks itself in place.

You do need to cut on the radiator support behind the lights just a tiny amount, theres part of the inner fender metal thats folded back onto it, and they dont clear by just the thickness of the metal...BOO!!! It was sooo close haha. I'd take a picture of that but it looks terrible and i dont what to show that until i can clean it up with a grinder or something

You sir, are the man, I appreciate the info:happy160:
Was the area behind the headlight easily accessible and big enough to fit a power tool of some sort to grind/drill? It's been a few years since I had my headlights out.


edit: This is a stupid question: What harness did you get? The "match stock bulb size" harness? Its the HD Relay H11/H9/H8/880, correct? Or is it the Canbus version?
 
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Geoffsfas10

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You sir, are the man, I appreciate the info:happy160:
Was the area behind the headlight easily accessible and big enough to fit a power tool of some sort to grind/drill? It's been a few years since I had my headlights out.


edit: This is a stupid question: What harness did you get? The "match stock bulb size" harness? Its the HD Relay H11/H9/H8/880, correct? Or is it the Canbus version?

Oh yeah, theres plenty of room behind there. I had my dremel with the cable attachment on it and a cutting wheel. later i just barely missed the clearance on the passenger side so I notched it out with a power drill. Lots of room for activities. If i were to do it again, and I still might do this to clean it up, I want to run "half" a hole saw on itand once it breaks through the metal, remove those pieces. And remember, prime and paint the area after you cut, no sense in giving rust free access.

Harness is the Morimoto one, and yes, match the stock bulb size, so H11. You do not need a canbus harness for the 14 and older. The make a single harness ( 9006 socket ) and then send a adapter pigtail with it to convert it to the the OEM bulb. You also will only plug the OEM wiring into one side of the harness, the other plug I tucked up and taped real nice with electrical tape so the connection isnt exposed.
 

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Oh yeah, theres plenty of room behind there. I had my dremel with the cable attachment on it and a cutting wheel. later i just barely missed the clearance on the passenger side so I notched it out with a power drill. Lots of room for activities. If i were to do it again, and I still might do this to clean it up, I want to run "half" a hole saw on itand once it breaks through the metal, remove those pieces. And remember, prime and paint the area after you cut, no sense in giving rust free access.

Harness is the Morimoto one, and yes, match the stock bulb size, so H11. You do not need a canbus harness for the 14 and older. The make a single harness ( 9006 socket ) and then send a adapter pigtail with it to convert it to the the OEM bulb. You also will only plug the OEM wiring into one side of the harness, the other plug I tucked up and taped real nice with electrical tape so the connection isnt exposed.

Nice, that is good to hear. I have an assortment of tools to remove material that should make it quick and easy work. Oh yes, it will be painted almost immediately after. I live on the coast, this will almost instantly rust if I don't prep it.

Thank you my friend, I really appreciate the assistance.
I'm looking forward to this upgrade. Been tossing around LEDs for a little while but always wanted retro's. This has made me 100% choose to go this route. Thank You
 
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Geoffsfas10

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Nice, that is good to hear. I have an assortment of tools to remove material that should make it quick and easy work. Oh yes, it will be painted almost immediately after. I live on the coast, this will almost instantly rust if I don't prep it.

Thank you my friend, I really appreciate the assistance.
I'm looking forward to this upgrade. Been tossing around LEDs for a little while but always wanted retro's. This has made me 100% choose to go this route. Thank You

I was in the same boat. I tried LEDs are about 30 minutes one night they just werent the same. Having a retro iin the past made the comparison worse for me, since I was already used to it. With how simple this ended up being, im glad I went this route.

if I were to redo it though, I think I would have gone with the mini gattling gun shrouds, since they screw on to the projector flange from behind, vs having to JB weld the shourds and concentric rings on but such is life. Its all good. Now just to re-aim the passenger side. think im gonna wait til its warmer though.
 

kbuskill

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I was in the same boat. I tried LEDs are about 30 minutes one night they just werent the same. Having a retro iin the past made the comparison worse for me, since I was already used to it. With how simple this ended up being, im glad I went this route.

if I were to redo it though, I think I would have gone with the mini gattling gun shrouds, since they screw on to the projector flange from behind, vs having to JB weld the shourds and concentric rings on but such is life. Its all good. Now just to re-aim the passenger side. think im gonna wait til its warmer though.

How do you plan on re-aiming the passenger side?

Will you have to open it back up?
 

Rocket Man

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I was in the same boat. I tried LEDs are about 30 minutes one night they just werent the same. Having a retro iin the past made the comparison worse for me, since I was already used to it. With how simple this ended up being, im glad I went this route.

if I were to redo it though, I think I would have gone with the mini gattling gun shrouds, since they screw on to the projector flange from behind, vs having to JB weld the shourds and concentric rings on but such is life. Its all good. Now just to re-aim the passenger side. think im gonna wait til its warmer though.
I got the mini Gatling gun shrouds and demon eyes which both screwed on to the projectors. That made that part of it easy. Which ones did you get? Here’s some shots of mine on my Silvy. I also had TRS do their lens etching service as you can see.

1A22983E-2A99-4078-B2A5-1298DC2B9571.jpeg 2FF8D3DC-2AE2-42A8-8BC5-EF6B8951C359.jpeg 2CBCDEFA-B8A1-439A-A902-8FC88A7D4243.jpeg
 

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