Best home garage lift for Tahoe (and your other cars)!!

[Big Mama]

Go for it Ron, sounds like the landlord is in your life for a reason if he’s still willing to set up the shop. I’d bet he’d add a compressor and other things attached to the building. It’s a win win. You get to enjoy getting dirty and he gets a personal mechanic. Though you get along great put expectations in writing so you remain friends. Good luck.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

A fabricator buddy kinda did the same thing with his tubing bender until the holes in the concrete wore out. He could only drill a bigger hole and move up to a larger bolt, so I gave him some anchors that we use to bolt down safes. They leave a threaded sleeve in the concrete so you can screw in a regular bolt. He set them a little below the surface level of the concrete so when not in use, he snaps plug covers over them to keep dirt and debris out.

Once you cinch those down, can you completely remove the bolt and then reinstall later or is it like a "double" that can only be spread once?

 

[OR VietVet]

Go for it Ron, sounds like the landlord is in your life for a reason if he’s still willing to set up the shop. I’d bet he’d add a compressor and other things attached to the building. It’s a win win. You get to enjoy getting dirty and he gets a personal mechanic. Though you get along great put expectations in writing so you remain friends. Good luck.

The move away from where I am at would be my second choice. I like living here and working at the same place in a very upscale neighborhood. I pay no rent or utilities here. I get a great salary and I walk thru a door for work. I am here alone. The Max Jax lift under the carport with the vaulted ceiling would be great. If I did move to the other that would mean I had an obligation, at 67 years old, to work on his rigs when he needs it. If I stay here I control it all and work on other vehicles when I damn well please. If I did move I might want to enlarge the business side and hire a tech to do the heavy lifting and such but again, at 67, I don't know if I want to take that on. It is an option but clearly a second choice.

 

[wjburken]

Once you cinch those down, can you completely remove the bolt and then reinstall later or is it like a "double" that can only be spread once?

They are kind of like a nutsert for concrete. Once they are anchored, they stay and bolts can be taken in and out.

 

[iamdub]

Once you cinch those down, can you completely remove the bolt and then reinstall later or is it like a "double" that can only be spread once?

That's the beauty of these things- You can remove, reinstall or replace the bolt as many times as you'd like. The anchor is a separate part and, really, you can screw anything into the hole that has that thread, which they use standard bolt threads. It literally creates a threaded boss in the concrete that you can use however and still have a flush surface when nothing is screwed into it. If it's no longer wanted, just fill it with epoxy or concrete patch. We use them for safes since we can mount the anchors then slide the safe over the holes rather than having to lift the safe over a threaded stud such as what a wedge anchor would have.

You drill the hole, drop the anchor in and use a punch to drive a slug (already captured inside at the bottom of the anchor) downward which spreads the bottom outward like a rivet. Screw in a bolt, allthread rod, eyebolt, etc.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

That's the beauty of these things- You can remove, reinstall or replace the bolt as many times as you'd like. The anchor is a separate part and, really, you can screw anything into the hole that has that thread, which they use standard bolt threads. It literally creates a threaded boss in the concrete that you can use however and still have a flush surface when nothing is screwed into it. If it's no longer wanted, just fill it with epoxy or concrete patch. We use them for safes since we can mount the anchors then slide the safe over the holes rather than having to lift the safe over a threaded stud such as what a wedge anchor would have.

You drill the hole, drop the anchor in and use a punch to drive a slug (already captured inside at the bottom of the anchor) downward which spreads the bottom outward like a rivet. Screw in a bolt, allthread rod, eyebolt, etc.

Awesome. Gonna get these for the racks in the new shop. Where do you buy them?

 

[OR VietVet]

I just downloaded the installation manual because I was curious as well... it says "The floor on which the lift is to be installed must be 4-inch minimum thickness concrete, with a minimum compressive strength of 3000 psi. (Reinforced steel bar optional)"

This is definitely on my radar....

I can only assume at this point, especially since I am not a contractor, but I would assume that the required compressive strength of the concrete is if you had the maximum weight allowed for the lift at 6000 pounds. Or is it that the concrete is of a different density and certain amount of rebar to make that happen and if is less compressive strength of say 2500 psi, the concrete could be made or mixed differently and ANY weight pulling at it with a vehicle in the air could pull the anchor out because of the concrete being a different density at 2500 psi. I have no idea what the wording is but hopefully you understand.

 

[iamdub]

Awesome. Gonna get these for the racks in the new shop. Where do you buy them?

Any good hardware store. Home Depot has them and the setting tool. Pretty sure Amazon would have them as well. They're common in commercial and industrial electrical when mounting things overhead in concrete. Search for "concrete drop in anchor".

What kind of racks? How big you need?

For example:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head-3-8-in-x-1-5-8-in-Steel-Drop-In-Anchors-50-Pack-01891/100154222

 

[Fless]

Any good hardware store. Home Depot has them and the setting tool. Pretty sure Amazon would have them as well. They're common in commercial and industrial electrical when mounting things overhead in concrete. Search for "concrete drop in anchor".

What kind of racks? How big you need?

For example:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head-3-8-in-x-1-5-8-in-Steel-Drop-In-Anchors-50-Pack-01891/100154222

Gotta love how they mix the spec formats, in decimal and fractions. Why not just list the length as 1-5/8? Or the diameter as 0.375?

That also reminds me of seeing a toll road sign displaying the cost of .75 cents. I've been overcharged all this time?

 

[OR VietVet]

Anyone ever seen or know of these or own one of these? Or know of anything even better?

https://www.griotsgarage.com/produc...MIuJOInufq5gIViB-tBh15GgzLEAQYASABEgKFnfD_BwE

https://www.mechanicstoolswarehouse...MIuJOInufq5gIViB-tBh15GgzLEAQYCyABEgKMrPD_BwE

https://www.zoro.com/shopsol-creeper-adjustable-back-500-lb-capacity-1010484/i/G0725129/

 

[OR VietVet]

May have to go with something like this and get all the tall adapters I can to safely go higher. I have the complete building blue prints for the whole facility and I take this footnote to mean that the 3000 psi rating is for the concrete floor of where I live and the outside concrete rating of 2500 psi is in my carport area and therefore would not support the Max Jax. Hence the questions about the creepers and this portable lift set up.

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/portable-car-lifts/bl-7000slx/

 

[iamdub]

Gotta love how they mix the spec formats, in decimal and fractions. Why not just list the length as 1-5/8? Or the diameter as 0.375?

View attachment 237815


That also reminds me of seeing a toll road sign displaying the cost of .75 cents. I've been overcharged all this time?

lol
I never noticed that. I could see how some people are confused when reading fractions, so why not use all decimals? The least they could've done was to express the quantity as 4.166666666666667 dozen.

 

[iamdub]

View attachment 237824 May have to go with something like this and get all the tall adapters I can to safely go higher. I have the complete building blue prints for the whole facility and I take this footnote to mean that the 3000 psi rating is for the concrete floor of where I live and the outside concrete rating of 2500 psi is in my carport area and therefore would not support the Max Jax. Hence the questions about the creepers and this portable lift set up.

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/portable-car-lifts/bl-7000slx/

Bummer on the 2500 psi concrete. Although, the concrete contractor may have poured the same 3000 psi stuff as for the slab. I believe those are just minimum figures the engineer has to spec and it seems one would have to go out of their way for a 500 psi savings. But, I'm no expert. It's worth investigating if the place isn't very old and if the contractor can be reached.

One thing about that Quickjack is you gotta be able to move the halves of that lift around on the ground.

This honie manages it just fine, she just had to put dat ass into it:

 

[OR VietVet]

Bummer on the 2500 psi concrete. Although, the concrete contractor may have poured the same 3000 psi stuff as for the slab. I believe those are just minimum figures the engineer has to spec and it seems one would have to go out of their way for a 500 psi savings. But, I'm no expert. It's worth investigating if the place isn't very old and if the contractor can be reached.

One thing about that Quickjack is you gotta be able to move the halves of that lift around on the ground.

This honie manages it just fine, she just had to put dat ass into it:

Yea, I still have to check with the owner's son and his brother about the concrete. Plus, the Tahoe is about 5000 pounds and if you equate it out that may be fine if the 2500 psi is fine for that weight. It may stand to reason that the spec of minimum 3000 psi is because they equate that out for the 6000 pound lift capacity. I see a double this number and it pencils out. Or to the other extreme, if you half the lift capacity that is the concrete psi spec to shoot for.


Now, about that Honie and the QuickJack. I would want to get some more extensions but I know there has to be a limit. The biggest thing is that it is clear under the middle of the truck/Tahoe. Hence the creeper questions in my other post.

She would be sexier in shop coveralls though. Especially if she stopped saying, "LIKE" all the time.

 

[wjburken]

Yea, I still have to check with the owner's son and his brother about the concrete. Plus, the Tahoe is about 5000 pounds and if you equate it out that may be fine if the 2500 psi is fine for that weight. It may stand to reason that the spec of minimum 3000 psi is because they equate that out for the 6000 pound lift capacity. I see a double this number and it pencils out. Or to the other extreme, if you half the lift capacity that is the concrete psi spec to shoot for.


Now, about that Honie and the QuickJack. I would want to get some more extensions but I know there has to be a limit. The biggest thing is that it is clear under the middle of the truck/Tahoe. Hence the creeper questions in my other post.

She would be sexier in shop coveralls though. Especially if she stopped saying, "LIKE" all the time.

The 3000 psi requirement isn’t necessarily for load bearing, it’s for holding power of the bolt anchors.

You would be hard pressed to find a redi-mix plant that would provide anything less than 3000 psi concrete, but you need to go by what the plans callout.

It would not be that costly, if the landlord allowed, to cut out a 3’ by 3’ section for each of the posts and pour some 3000+ psi concrete. If you go 6” deep, you still have less than a yard of concrete between the 2 holes.

 

[OR VietVet]

Wade, I knew it wasn't load bearing, or at least I was telling myself that. I was wondering if there is a difference in the concrete mix or density or whatever that would in fact allow the anchors to pull out, like you said. I just did not know how to word it properly. The cutting out of the sections for the re-pour of concrete, I know will never happen. I would bet that the brother's brother, the contractor, will know for sure. I hate guesswork and prefer to KNOW for sure and not take any risks. The MAX JAX would never let me stand under it anyway so the other QuickJack will likely be the way I will go. Time will tell when I get a chance to talk to the contractor.

 

[iamdub]

Yea, I still have to check with the owner's son and his brother about the concrete. Plus, the Tahoe is about 5000 pounds and if you equate it out that may be fine if the 2500 psi is fine for that weight. It may stand to reason that the spec of minimum 3000 psi is because they equate that out for the 6000 pound lift capacity. I see a double this number and it pencils out. Or to the other extreme, if you half the lift capacity that is the concrete psi spec to shoot for.


Now, about that Honie and the QuickJack. I would want to get some more extensions but I know there has to be a limit. The biggest thing is that it is clear under the middle of the truck/Tahoe. Hence the creeper questions in my other post.

She would be sexier in shop coveralls though. Especially if she stopped saying, "LIKE" all the time.

The concrete spec isn't so much for the weight of the vehicle, at least not directly. It's a measure of strength to allow for any off-balance load which would create an upward pull on the opposite side. The vast majority of the weight is downward and spread over a larger footprint than what two tires would create. With a two-post clear-floor lift, the only off-balance load is fore or aft on the X axis since the tops of the lift columns are connected with a beam, supporting the Y axis loads. On the MaxJax, the Y axis load is all held by the anchors so I'd say it's even more critical to adhere to the specs. I agree that there's a considerable safety margin and I'd assume it to be 100%. But I wouldn't wanna test it.


I'm sure that she's in some sort of over- or coveralls in at least one of her vids. They wouldn't be loose, though. I hear her talking, but I've never paid close enough attention to notice the excessive "likes". Doesn't surprise me, though.

 

[OR VietVet]

That's a whole lot of booty hangin' out there, but it sure looks good. I noticed something else in the video, no nails sticking way out there. SMART!

 

[OR VietVet]

I am going to go with this set up

https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/bl-7000slx/

With this extension kit:

https://www.quickjack.com/slx-frame-extensions/

With this adaptor kit:

https://www.quickjack.com/suv-truck-adapter-kit/


It is all free delivery.

I was going to have to be on a creeper of some sort anyway with the Max Jax

 

[Matt_]

I am going to go with this set up

https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/bl-7000slx/

With this extension kit:

https://www.quickjack.com/slx-frame-extensions/

With this adaptor kit:

https://www.quickjack.com/suv-truck-adapter-kit/


It is all free delivery.

I was going to have to be on a creeper of some sort anyway with the Max Jax

I was actually just looking at the same setup! The extension is great because it adds another 1.5" of lift height (which i might need for my lifted yukon XL).

Another thing i was thinking about the quickjack is that its mobile... can use it in any of my garage bays, or the driveway.

Let me know how it works when you get it!