Decided to keep and now want info/recommendations

[OR VietVet]

At this point since my 2002 runs like a top and has low miles for the year, 158k. Averaged just over 8k a year and is a one owner. I think I am just gonna bite the bullet and spend some money on it. The leather interior has absolutely no tears. All accessories and systems work without a flaw. Within the last year I have done all AC Delco plugs, wires, filters, water pump, tensioners, idlers and belts. Have ran syn oil in it for the 3 years I have owned and I have put less than 8k on it in those 3 years. I live where I work at a large self storage facility. It is close to needing tires and I plan to do some custom wheels. Has the typical clear coat prob at only the top of driver's door and driver's rear door. Some scratches at the driver's door key area. That is it. no dings or dents. Very small impact mark just to the right of license plate mount on front.

Thinking of maybe some performance exhaust if there is anyone here that has recommendations.

Please don't recommend K&N filter set up. Have never been sold on any value there.

Maybe some suspension mods.

Because I worked in the auto repair industry for over 35 years I am fully aware of stock parts and repairs but lack a bit in the performance mods. Was never really in to that till now. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[iamdub]

Bang-for-the-buck performance mods would be custom tune (not a "canned" tune from a handheld) and an electric cooling fan. I'm a fan of a free-flow muffler, headers (mid-length) and AIRAID MIT or homemade smooth intake tube (stock filter and box is fine). Unless the pipes are damaged or rusty, I don't see the point in replacing the whole exhaust system. Just swap the stock muffler for one of your choice.

 

[OR VietVet]

Thanks. Free flow muffler was something I was thinking of. I am in Oregon and the vehicle was only owned by one owner here in Oregon and we use no salt on the roads here so rust is not a problem. Custom tune is interesting.

 

[iamdub]

Thanks. Free flow muffler was something I was thinking of. I am in Oregon and the vehicle was only owned by one owner here in Oregon and we use no salt on the roads here so rust is not a problem. Custom tune is interesting.

No need to get pricey with the muffler. Pick one off of Amazon and weld or have it welded in. I got a Magnaflow knock-off for about 1/3 the price of a Magnaflow. I'm thoroughly pleased with the construction and sound of it.

If you had to pick one mod based on effectiveness, the custom tune wins hands-down. If you switched to the electric fans, such as those from the '05+ trucks and SUVs, you'd need the circuit activated in the tune, anyway. My experience with an electric fan conversion was on my S10 and it was an awesome improvement. No engine drag in hot weather, no clutch fan roar, and A/C blew as cold as it could even when idling.

 

[OR VietVet]

The electric fan mod is something I am familiar with. I used to do a lot of very demanding off road driving. We did the electric fans and got rid of the propeller fan and fan clutch. I also ran a full aluminum 4 core radiator and never had problems. Thanks for the info.

 

[08HoeCD]

Black Bear Tune and electric fan.
New muffler will make things sound good, which is a big plus, but I doubt you'll see any 'performance' benefit.

 

[OR VietVet]

The mods will be 90% for looks and the sound. At this time I am not comfortable with performance mods that change the engine performance that much.

 

[Tonyrodz]

You could also do a vette servo for firmer trans shifts.

 

[iamdub]

The mods will be 90% for looks and the sound. At this time I am not comfortable with performance mods that change the engine performance that much.

I don't know how you drive it or how much you know about tuning, but the factory shift tables for the trans suck. "Suck", as in, damaging to the trans. For instance, GM has a lot of "slip" programmed in to make it shift soft and buttery smooth. This feels nice, but comes at the expense of trans life. If you drive it really easily and rarely tow then you may never notice it or have any issues as a result. Even if you may not be interested in tuning for engine power, a GOOD custom tune, such as from Black Bear, will remove the excessive slip from the trans tuning, vastly improving the driving characteristics and prolonging torque converter and clutch life. I'm no professional, but I think most of the power gained at the rear wheels from a tune is not from tweaking the engine's fuel and spark maps to run more aggressively, but from letting the trans more efficiently direct what power the engine does make to the rear wheels rather than letting it be converted to heat in the trans. There are a few areas within the engine's tuning itself that can be improved upon, though, and this is where you want an experienced tuner doing their thing. There's no need to advance the spark tables to the moon or crank up the injector pulse. Just fine-tune a few things that will improve it's efficiency and do no harm. Aside from being able to use more of the power the engine makes, pretty much everyone comments on how much more responsive, lively and enjoyable their truck is after the tune- "it's how it should've came from the factory".

Lift it or lower it on new shoes, refresh the suspension bushings and make it sound like it has balls and go from there!

 

[adriver]

I think everyone else has covered the tune and efans. If not, tune and efans. I'll try suspension; How do you use your vehicle: Do you ever go off road? 2wd or 4wd? Would you be looking at dropping it or lowering it, if so do you know how much? The cheapest and easiest thing to do to help with handling is to level it out. That will help with side to side but getting rid of the rake will give it a little more pulled back in the seat feeling if you really don't like that. For the same reason, do you tow?

Can I/we ask what kind of budget you were considering to put in? The e fans and tune you are lookin a little under $1000. Leveling and IMO poly swaybar bracket bushings, whether you raise the front or drop the rear an inch or two, its all pretty easy, and about $100 for those parts.

Adding a little more power, (and even if you weren't), since you didn't mention it, making sure you know of the NNBS front brake upgrade, and possibly hydroboost if not equipped.

Everything that's been said so far in this thread is really the "general starting point" for mods for this model.

 

[OR VietVet]

This is the info I need and want. Very familiar with trans shifting points and how the slippage for soft shifts also cause more heat and therefore less trans life. I live where I work so I put very few miles on the rig a year. Even at my age I do like to feel the stiffer suspension for handling because I tend to drive it pretty hard when I do take it out. I really appreciate all the info and will keep this thread handy for reference. Now that I have decided to keep this 2002 I am looking forward to spending some time and money on it.

 

[OR VietVet]

I was impressed with the 2011 that I drove last night. Not a ding or a scratch in it anywhere. Interior was perfect. Tried to slide the cover for the moon roof and there is an accordion shaped curtain looking piece on each side that looks like it just fills in the gap there. The one above the driver had come unhooked/unattached and was draping down. It was interfering with the cover slide till I poked it back up. Looks like a very easy fix. The drivers side outside mirror had some of the plastic trim broke away on the very outer edge. About 10" in length. Looks like the driver broke it off when hitting something while backing up. The mirror functioned fine though. By the way, as I would normally do, I did romp on it to put the trans thru it's paces.

One big glaring thing that did not impress me was the driver's seat. I have way more leg room on my 2002 than this 2011 has. I had the seat all the way back, the back seat rest tilted back to my limit of comfort and I had the lower seat tilted up in front to help elevate my thighs so my knees would not touch the center console or the driver's door. I could not drive all over town or on a trip with the seat like this. This was an LTZ model with the second row captain's chairs. Would that have anything to do with the front seat adjustments?

The stock exhaust had been replaced and had a throaty sound to it. It was not obnoxious but when romped on it, it was quite loud.

They wanted $23,995 for the Tahoe. I offered $21k and trade my 2002 for $5k and the difference I would pay in cash and I would fix the moon roof curtain and driver's mirror myself.

They said thanks but no thanks and so did I and we shook hands and parted with hand shakes. I am a capitalist thru and thru. I gotta make money and so do they. No hard feelings.

Gonna look at 3 others this weekend. One tonight and 2 on Monday. If they all have the driver's seat cramp for me, then I will be keeping my 2002 and maybe look for another one no older than the 2006. I am 6'4" tall and weigh in at 320 lbs. Even if I lose weight I am not gonna shrink in length.


The more and more I look at the newer Tahoe's I see a great design but none seem to match the comfort of my 2002. It seems the grass is not always greener.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

This is the info I need and want. Very familiar with trans shifting points and how the slippage for soft shifts also cause more heat and therefore less trans life. I live where I work so I put very few miles on the rig a year. Even at my age I do like to feel the stiffer suspension for handling because I tend to drive it pretty hard when I do take it out. I really appreciate all the info and will keep this thread handy for reference. Now that I have decided to keep this 2002 I am looking forward to spending some time and money on it.

A. Solid decision on keeping the low mile 2002. We read the "I miss my NBS" posts all the time.

B. Agree with Tony. Do a trans service and throw the vette servo in it. Firmer, quicker 1-2 and better holding on 3-4. Feels great and will increase trans longevity.

Then tune it.

 

[Rocket Man]

Everything everybody has mentioned is spot on. The single biggest bang for the buck, and what will bring you the most satisfaction and make it seem like a whole new truck, would be the tune from someone like Blackbear Performance. Unfortunately since you live in Oregon like I do, you can’t get an in-person tune since they never make it out here. There are other ways though. I bought an Autocal which allows them to email me tunes and then I use the Autocal to transfer them into the truck via the OBD port. I would be willing to loan it to you with a deposit if you’re local to Portland or there are other ways, check their website. There’s an option to rent equipment from them to transfer a tune.

 

[OR VietVet]

I was actually reading Black Bear info about the rental of equipment when this post came up. I am definitely going to do the tune and the Corvette trans servo. I am in Eugene and I don't even come close to driving near Portland with the crap that goes on their with the homeless and ANTIFA. I appreciate the offer but I feel more comfortable just renting it all from Black Bear. How much is the Autocal?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I was actually reading Black Bear info about the rental of equipment when this post came up. I am definitely going to do the tune and the Corvette trans servo. I am in Eugene and I don't even come close to driving near Portland with the crap that goes on their with the homeless and ANTIFA. I appreciate the offer but I feel more comfortable just renting it all from Black Bear. How much is the Autocal?

You could always road trip it to Idaho. Your ride home would be sick!

 

[OR VietVet]

Yea, I saw where they have a live tune in Coeur D'Alene, ID. That would be a fun drive back. The home office for Black Bear is right around the corner in Hayden. I would want to take friends and make a weekend of it.

 

[iamdub]

Another option with the AutoCal is to buy one used. There seems to be one popping up for sale every couple of months on one of many related forums. Someone gets their tune where they want it then they never mess with it again, so they offload the AutoCal. They usually go for around $200. I wanna say I saw one on performancetrucks.net for $150 recently.

 

[OR VietVet]

I email Black Bear about dates in Idaho. I will also see about getting a used Autocal or even a new one. When you figure in what the tune would cost there and the trip expenses it may be a wash on just getting the Autocal and doing it myself. Plus with my 35+ years in the repair field, it would allow me to get back in to PLAYING with things.

 

[Rocket Man]

I email Black Bear about dates in Idaho. I will also see about getting a used Autocal or even a new one. When you figure in what the tune would cost there and the trip expenses it may be a wash on just getting the Autocal and doing it myself. Plus with my 35+ years in the repair field, it would allow me to get back in to PLAYING with things.

I forgot about buying a used one. If you do that, you can always sell it when or if you’re ever done with it. Keep in mind that the tune is for life so if you change anything ( tire size, add a cam, different exhaust, blower, stall, servo, etc) they will send a new tune. They’ve retuned The Beast about 7 times I think. You just hook it up, drive around for 15 minutes collecting data, download it and email it to them and they email a new tune.