Any thoughts for water pump upgrade for gen iv 6.2 yukon

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hagar

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Point is... put a fan in front . Bigger radiator. Pretty clear . Before it milt's down .
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He already upgraded the rad. Its isnt overheating in stop and go traffic, it is overheating at hwy speeds under load. It is an air flow issue. A front mounted pusher fans system would actually cause more cooling issues at hwy speeds than having no fans up front because it isnt a low speed problem.

Fans are a fart in the wind compared to the airflow going across a radiator at hwy speeds as long as the air is properly getting to the rad.
 

swathdiver

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I have 08 yukon denali with the 6.2 and kept vvt. I stroked it and supercharged it. I got exactly what i wanted and that was to tow up hill and across country in converter lockup. Problem is overheating. Obviously 1600 rpms aren't enough to keep it cool enough. For that matter neither is 2200. I replaced the radiator with a monster.

Can you provide a link to the radiator used? Does it have the restriction going to the surge tank?

You have a hotrod engine doing work truck work. When this blows up, put that supercharger on top of an 6.0 L96, even your crankshaft if you want, and heat issues will likely go away.
 

Woodblocker55

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Radiator radiator radiator ok now on to next point anyone read RPMs on my motorhome ? Them water ports are huge on 454 . Your dealing with small water jackets you need under load to be in the 2500 RPM + just to keep water flow that's if you have big radiator . You can only lug like that if you have a 454 and you wouldn't believe the output of heat coming from a 454 at 1650 rpm under load at 70 mph ( it's pulling 12,300 lbs ). So if you want cool her down at lower RPM electric fan do it . And I don't care how much you bag electric fans but it cools that 454 down in 90f heat in under 5 mins . Yes it's 2 foot fan and noisy. Your set up will generate tons of heat . You can hit the math take fuel your burning and turn it in to BTUs and then start looking at charts to cool it . The RPMs your talking are in overdrive . All laws of physics apply my motorhome is a good example as it's constantly under load because it's at Max out put all the time .
Yes I worped exhaust manifold from not letting it run long enough at idle before shutting down . At 70 mph exhaust manifold start glowing . Its nature of the beast . Your setup will generate even more heat.

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thompsoj22

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Here this will get the carbon off the valves 13,160 lb load and trailer . That's oak . Every weak link in drive system will show up . Yes that's a 1/2 suburban. It was my tuning run . Yes there is a top knotch brake system on trailer. And weights more then that guys boat !!! [emoji106][emoji3]
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Thats amazing, Im going to stop whining at 5,500 lbs loaded! That load is twice the weight of the tow vehicle.
 

hagar

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One more thought. You said you are running a vvt cam, what are the specs on it? Is the tune running stock vvt retard values or is it adjusted for the differing timing events of an aftermarket cam?
I have seen vvt engines running big cams and stock phasing numbers with screw/roots type superchargers create excess heat because you are creating improper cam timing.
The stock vvt tables on your truck ram in a bunch of cam retard and additional ignition timing in cruise and light load ranges.
 

Joe yukon

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Thats amazing, Im going to stop whining at 5,500 lbs loaded! That load is twice the weight of the tow vehicle.
Went 60 miles . [emoji106][emoji57] Chevy thunder. That even make ton truck say hey that's heavy. 14,000 lb ball and weight distribution hitch. [emoji106] Chevy was pretty strapped down.[emoji106][emoji57]

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Woodblocker55

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Here is how you set up a good tuning run . Every little thing wrong will show up . You need to hook that 6.2 up to something like this . [emoji106] Its where laws of all weight and horse power come to play . A.K.A horse power play ground .
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hagar

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Here is how you set up a good tuning run . Every little thing wrong will show up . You need to hook that 6.2 up to something like this .
emoji106.png
Its where laws of all weight and horse power come to play . A.K.A horse power play ground .
emoji106.png
241859f3e453a1def609685a47f56ba9.jpg


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You have been a great help for the original poster with your posts of your rig for no reason. Go brag start your own brag post.
 

hagar

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Here is how you set up a good tuning run . Every little thing wrong will show up . You need to hook that 6.2 up to something like this . [emoji106] Its where laws of all weight and horse power come to play . A.K.A horse power play ground .
[emoji106]
241859f3e453a1def609685a47f56ba9.jpg


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The guys engine is worth more than your piece Tahoe and unreal piece motorhome combined. I bet his tranny is worth more than both combined.. but your tripple radiator and ten fan system is sure to help.
 

Joe yukon

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The guys engine is worth more than your piece Tahoe and unreal piece motorhome combined. I bet his tranny is worth more than both combined.. but your tripple radiator and ten fan system is sure to help.
[emoji38]

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Woodblocker55

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I helped him out alot if he has 3 times the horse power he should have 3 times the cooling. Now your worried about cost. Here I thought end result was about function. And working correctly. Ya what was I thinking .

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thompsoj22

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Can you provide a link to the radiator used? Does it have the restriction going to the surge tank?

You have a hotrod engine doing work truck work. When this blows up, put that supercharger on top of an 6.0 L96, even your crankshaft if you want, and heat issues will likely go away.


Are you thinking a cast iron block runs cooler than an aluinum block? I think either config would react identically under the same mods?
 

swathdiver

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Are you thinking a cast iron block runs cooler than an aluinum block? I think either config would react identically under the same mods?

No, my thinking is the thinner cylinder walls are not helping, nor is the longer stroke. It's not much in either direction but times eight and that supercharger it will start to add up. The Tru-Cool and Intercooler depending on where they are placed can also affect radiator cooling performance, as can the radiator itself. I remember from thirty years ago, big 4 and 5 row radiators actually were a detriment in our particular drag cars, as were the front mounted intercoolers. Especially the intercoolers as my memory about them comes back. We had the option of running them between the motor and cooling fans with a shroud for cooling air, much more efficient for a daily driver.
 

iamdub

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Have you tried manually shifting and holding it in a lower gear to see if the extra RPMs help any?

If you are able to confirm that insufficient water flow at your towing RPM is the problem, you may be able to have a custom pulley made to speed up the WP.
 

iamdub

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GM says we're supposed to tow with the 6-speeds in 4th gear for this very reason.

Which is why I'm wondering why the OP is against the higher RPM. Granted, the stroked and supercharged factors deviate hugely from the factory design. But, the physics still apply.
 

petethepug

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Sounds like it’s time for a new fan shroud design. You can have all the cooling potential in the world but if the air is blowing around the radiator instead of through it, there’s no thermal exchange from the approaching air over the radiator fins.

I wonder if your blades or shroud could be flexing under heat/load. Another scenario is the distance of the fan from the shroud. If it’s not encapsulated in orientation to the shroud design parameters the cooling air doesn’t pass over the fins.

Oh, wait, supercharger, is it a Eaton - roots type blower?


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thompsoj22

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I went back and read the op and it was right there the whole time, Supercharged/"INTERCOOLED"/trans cooled/ac condenser/power steering cooler/engine oil cooler, The poor radiator does not have a chance. Im not sure how you would do it but move the intercooler which is charged with super heated air and your problems are over. im sure it will be a pita. Im just brain storming and spending your cash for you lol, But the lower air dam between the front cowl and forward crossmember is where i would consider a mounting area with minimal plumbing and add an electric fan to the assembly and ill bet it would work? Somthing tell's me your not strapped for cash and it would be a cool setup. Ill bet there is allready a ram air effect in that area.
 
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hagar

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I went back and read the op and it was right there the whole time, Supercharged/"INTERCOOLED"/trans cooled/ac condenser/power steering cooler/engine oil cooler, The poor radiator does not have a chance. Im not sure how you would do it but move the intercooler which is charged with super heated air and your problems are over. im sure it will be a pita. Im just brain storming and spending your cash for you lol, But the lower air dam between the front cowl and forward crossmember is where i would consider a mounting area with minimal plumbing and add an electric fan to the assembly and ill bet it would work? Somthing tell's me your not strapped for cash and it would be a cool setup. Ill bet there is allready a ram air effect in that area.

Yeah man. Its air flow. I dont even know the guy, but I know his stroker screw/roots combo will take his engine water temp up to operating temp within two blocks from stone cold. When you make 800 hp, you make way more everywhere. Good points were brought up about water pump rpm, but I have seen this many times. When you get into big power there are coolers everywhere, and they often require factory air deflector mods, and of course extrA coolers. Thermal run away is real. You get on the wrong side of your thermostat with 750 foot pounds and 500 hp at 2500 loaded and once it hits its limit, it goes nuclear.
 

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