ya that was even after I cleaned it up a bit, some of that stuff is practically glued on, I had never lifted the console up before, previous owner had a short hair dog and I have found hair in every possible crack and crevice so far
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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iamdub
Full Access Member
The only thing I've ever towed with this rig is my 5'x8' expanded metal (even the bottom) trailer. Usually to transport my ~800-pound ZTR mower and once a couple months ago loaded to capacity with landscape pavers. I've always had that "zero drop" ball mount and have been using it in the Tahoe. I have a drop mount (6", I think) but I have no reason to use it. Since I mostly tow the mower, the extra angle is convenient for driving up the ramp gate. Also, I lifted the rear of the Tahoe 1" around March or April of this year. I'll revisit the ball mount situation after the Tahoe is 5-6 inches lower than where it currently sits.
Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
Well I guess it's a new day, finally finished the oil pressure switch, fired up and have oil pressure readings again
Definitely having the wrong socket put a damper on the day.
I did lose the old Oil Pressure sensor back there somewhere, should I be worried?
It's a PITA but much better than paying someone 300-500
Key points: Get the Lisle Socket(the Autozone OEM is wrong and won't work) The Oil pressure switch/sensor is vertically installed(many youtube video neglect to tell you that)
While I had a pile of tools, here are the tools you need
(I didn't have a 3/8 swivel, so I ended up using 1/2 drive which worked in my favor)
This combination of tools allows you to work nearly straight down behind the rear plastic shroud(if you have one) and ratchet horizontally:
LISLE Socket
3/8 - 1/2 adapter
1/2 in ratchet
4 inch Wobble extension
-10inch threaded bolt for removing the old filter(and installing the new one)
Look at that nasty old filter, for reference behind it is a high output LED lamp..
Not a fun job, but it's done...hopefully I won't have to do it again for a long while.
Definitely having the wrong socket put a damper on the day.
I did lose the old Oil Pressure sensor back there somewhere, should I be worried?
It's a PITA but much better than paying someone 300-500
Key points: Get the Lisle Socket(the Autozone OEM is wrong and won't work) The Oil pressure switch/sensor is vertically installed(many youtube video neglect to tell you that)
While I had a pile of tools, here are the tools you need
(I didn't have a 3/8 swivel, so I ended up using 1/2 drive which worked in my favor)
This combination of tools allows you to work nearly straight down behind the rear plastic shroud(if you have one) and ratchet horizontally:
LISLE Socket
3/8 - 1/2 adapter
1/2 in ratchet
4 inch Wobble extension
-10inch threaded bolt for removing the old filter(and installing the new one)
Look at that nasty old filter, for reference behind it is a high output LED lamp..
Not a fun job, but it's done...hopefully I won't have to do it again for a long while.
Last edited:
93blkongreenpro
Full Access Member
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Glad you got it done! And it's called a wobble extension I believe.
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93blkongreenpro
Full Access Member
- Joined
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Glad you got it done! And it's called a wobble extension I believe.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
Yes a Wobble extension, worked perfectly.
good job!
swathdiver
Full Access Member
City driving or have you ever towed that setup on the highway?
I only have about a 2" drop when towing with mine.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Might be an inch or two high; that Shamrock looks like it has a much taller coupler height than 16-"18" and if she tows well with the WD hitch and doesn't sway, call it good.
If you look at both pics it is set differently. I have been trying to get it perfectly level, but I think that's the best I'm going to get it. It tows fine. No sway or anything. One of the pictures is in key West and another is in Virginia. So I have definitely towed some distance.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
With the mower on it, it was to the gas station about 4 miles away to fill it and a few 5-gallon jugs. Country roads between sugar cane fields with almost no traffic.
I hauled those landscape pavers to the buyer about 40 miles away, most of which was highway. They were right at the weight capacity of the trailer. I keep a 1/2" piece of OSB on the trailer floor and had the pavers stacked two layers high on that. Covered that with another sheet of OSB and ratchet-strapped it all down. The trailer's axle is set further back than center, so loading the floor evenly automatically gave me a little forward weight bias. It towed great and nothing moved at all. I've never considered the upward angle of the trailer- does that pose any significance?
iamdub
Full Access Member
If that's all then that's not a concern. The angle keeps the mower from high-centering when driving it up the ramp and reduced ground clearance isn't an issue on paved roads and gas station parking lots where I routinely drag this thing.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
It can, not enough tongue weight can cause the trailer to sway and of course if the deck is angled enough a load could shift if not secured properly and cause problems too.
Get you one of these: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/reese-tactical-adjustable-ball-mount?cm_vc=-10005
The other night I was waiting for my wife while she went into the grocery store "for just one thing". A Suburban dropped off his wife too and he was pulling a little 5x8 utility trailer with a severe upward angle, not sure how the coupler stayed on the ball. He'd just bought it and was taking it home to be used by a Kia Sedona. All he had was the 2" drop hitch walmart special. That's what got me thinking about yours.
Maybe @intheburbs can share some wisdom on this topic or tell us I've no idea what I'm talking about.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I'm familiar with the necessity of tongue weight. I rarely drag a trailer and when I do, it's that little one. I drive the mower up and pull forward slowly until the Tahoe squats a little then lock the mower in place. Never had a problem. That's a pretty sweet looking hitch, but I don't tow enough in frequency or weight to worry with something like that. Once I lower the Tahoe, I'll revisit all this. I have a feeling I'm gonna end up keeping the ball mount I have now and it'll be about right.
Derick
Full Access Member
No repairs today, but I got it stuck in the mud while taking my camper over to a friends house for winter storage. Not an enjoyable experience.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Care to elaborate?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
You've got it figured right for what you do. Just be sure if you ever go to tow something bigger that the mount and ball are each rated for it. That setup I linked to is the one I bought and is more than enough; it exceeds the capacities of the hitch itself when towing without a WDH.
