What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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PG01

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That actually looks pretty good. Something to consider for my wife's Tahoe, too.

The only thing is that I probably wouldn't trust myself enough to do the painting, and paying somebody to do it would sort of defeat the purpose... :shrug: I would need to get a separate cheap (IF they exist...) grill first and do a practice run.
You can, grill comes out really easy and truck doesn’t look bad without it... so you can drive it while its out. take your time and most importantly prep it really well then spray it, let it dry... start on a Friday night after work and you can have it together Sunday afternoon...
 

iamdub

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I got the paint through Amazon, I attached a picture of the cap with the part number. I used epoxy primer, sandable primer, paint, and I used dupli color clear coat. I think I may try and find a better clear coat though. I will get a close shot tomorrow, it turned out almost a perfect match.

View attachment 186706 View attachment 186707

Thank you!
 

Drok

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You can, grill comes out really easy and truck doesn’t look bad without it... so you can drive it while its out. take your time and most importantly prep it really well then spray it, let it dry... start on a Friday night after work and you can have it together Sunday afternoon...

i just taped it off, wipped it down with glass cleaner and painted it. Haha 20170620_193200.jpg

Edit: dont get me wrong, what galante said is the better way to do it. I just did it the quick way, plus i had a heated shop to do it in before i took the hoe for delivery when i bought it. Lol
 
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guy from norcal

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I replaced both heater hose tee's. since one decided to break off just as the wife pulled into work. Good time to replace the hoses and thermostat as well.
 

swat2380

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07 Denali with 75k
New Centric rotors, Akeebono ProAct pads, Stoptech Stainless hoses, fluid flush and booster vacuum hose replaced just because. Also did front and rear differential fluids.

Have a buddy who works at Centric explain to me the differences from design, foundry's, etc. and why I should go with their Premium rotors which were less expensive than the AutoZone gold's I had waiting to install. Have to say I am very pleased with the Centric stuff my first time.

Also was pleasantly surprised the Stop Tech stainless lines also came with the rear inner hoses which I wasn't expecting. I want to kick the GM engineer who mounted the upper connection in the least accessible place possible tho. That wasn't very much at all. I can add part #'s later if needed
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iamdub

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After not having a good experience with my slotted cryo-tempered StopTech rotors, I'm going back to regular smooth rotors. I've read quite a few reviews on the Centric Premiums being better than the OE rotors. What's the scoop from you friend on them? Those brake lines were a 6-piece set? Part numbers on the lines and hard parts would be much appreciated.
 

swat2380

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I've done the drilled, slotted, cryo deal before without any luck as well. They look nice but think 90% are in the wrong application. I first went with AutoZone Gold High Carbon rotors for warranty and will copy n paste his info about then and Centric below. High carbon actually makes the rotor softer which was news to me.

Stoptech hoses are DOT certified and the rear set came with 4 hoses even though listings only said 2 at RockAuto

Part#'s are-
Centric Premium Coated Rotors-
120.66065, 120.66067

Stop Tech (Centric) Stainless hoses
Front-95066002
Rear-95066502

From buddy at Centric

Most of the lower end white box stuff you see in Autozone / O-reilly / wherever are similar...we actually supply a lot of it to them. When you get into the "higher end" stuff at the chain stores, it gets interesting. A lot of it is simply the white box shit with some sort of lipstick (plating/coating/paint) and a shiny box with a bunch of marketing jargon. Often times the "higher end" program is simply sourced through a different vendor that for whatever reason has the illusion of being better, even though they're not much different. Just about all production rotors any more come out of China, but like anything, they will build to whatever price point you want. Our premium stuff is cast using a fines and mold, while the economy stuff uses cheaper coarse sand. We also have casting process specs concerning core box size, cooling, etc that are not in place in many of the factories. The "high carbon" was actually started by us, we developed an alloy that was considerably softer, like OE European stuff, to work with the Euro style abrasive friction material. High Carbon was what we branded that alloy, which had considerably more to it than the standard G3000 with a couple points more carbon in the mix. Everyone else jumped on the "high carbon" bandwagon, by simply adding a bit of carbon, but the rotors aren't functionally any different than the standardG3000 iron in testing.

I'd recommend Centric Premium rotors. Assuming this is a non-XL Denali, Part numbers for the front rotors are 120.66057, rear rotors are 120.66065
 

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