V4/V8 Mode Vibration

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Stuart3256

TYF Newbie
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Posts
3
Reaction score
0
I have a 2007 Tahoe 4x4 5.3L
When slowing down I have nothiced an increasing vibration when going from V4 to V8 mode.

What is wrong?
How can I fix it?

Thanks!!
 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,802
Reaction score
44,790
Location
Li'l Weezyana
Either the AFM system is beginning to have issues or you have a blown and flattened motor mount or both. Both are very common and highly likely. If it were me, I'd disable the AFM with a tune (custom or handheld) or get the Range disabler device. Kill the AFM before it kills your motor!
 

PG01

Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Posts
14,778
Reaction score
17,929
Location
Up here to the right
Either the AFM system is beginning to have issues or you have a blown and flattened motor mount or both. Both are very common and highly likely. If it were me, I'd disable the AFM with a tune (custom or handheld) or get the Range disabler device. Kill the AFM before it kills your motor!
^^^^^this x1000
 
OP
OP
S

Stuart3256

TYF Newbie
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Posts
3
Reaction score
0
Either the AFM system is beginning to have issues or you have a blown and flattened motor mount or both. Both are very common and highly likely. If it were me, I'd disable the AFM with a tune (custom or handheld) or get the Range disabler device. Kill the AFM before it kills your motor!

All I have to do is program it out? I saw a “delete kit” that include lifters and a bunch of other stuff.
How do I know if motor mount is messed up?

Thanks for your help!!
 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,802
Reaction score
44,790
Location
Li'l Weezyana
All I have to do is program it out? I saw a “delete kit” that include lifters and a bunch of other stuff.
How do I know if motor mount is messed up?

Thanks for your help!!

Deleting it is the best way because you remove the actual failure-prone components from the engine. Disabling it is a second-best way because you at least keep the system from engaging. But, the crappy lifters (what usually fails and causes damage) are still in place.

To test the engine mount, pop the hood and watch the motor through the gap between the hood and the cowl. Hold the brake firmly with the gear in "D". Jab the throttle pedal about 1/4-1/2 way. If the motor jumps up on the left side then slams back down (you'll feel it, too), then you have a busted driver's side mount. The passenger side lasts much longer because it's only under tension in when the car is in reverse. Although, it may be "popped" and it's fluid leaked out (orangy/rust-colored stains).
 

okfoz

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2014
Posts
367
Reaction score
116
I have almost 150K on my 2007 and although I get the groan when it goes into 4 cyl mode I never really realize it goes between 4 & 8. I have done an oil clean-out where they got all the sledge from my engine and that seemed to clear up some issues I had like fuel mileage.

John
 
OP
OP
S

Stuart3256

TYF Newbie
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Posts
3
Reaction score
0
I have almost 150K on my 2007 and although I get the groan when it goes into 4 cyl mode I never really realize it goes between 4 & 8. I have done an oil clean-out where they got all the sledge from my engine and that seemed to clear up some issues I had like fuel mileage.

John
How much did that cost to do the oil clean out??
 

okfoz

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2014
Posts
367
Reaction score
116
I think it was like $50-$70 or so... I had one car that was running rough, like it had a sticky valve and it cleared that up... not immediately, but it had the condition for about 1000 miles and then after the cleanout it went away after 50 or so miles...

My oil change place does them... It is like doing two oil changes. They drain your oil, they put this cleanout stuff in your crankcase, then you run your engine for 10 min or so. They drain that and fill with oil then you are good to go. The oil in my tahoe at 150K remains very clear even after 3/4000 miles but I have been using synthetic too...
 

tiktok4321

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2017
Posts
108
Reaction score
13
Even using Synth only you gotta clean out the engine? I like the concept of the AFM, and I just went through a major overhaul replacing my camshaft and all the lifters and trays - a gift from the previous owner. I had been using standard 5w30 per the manual, but the guy that did my costly, timely rebuild said to always use synthetic and never use detergents.

I don't think I want to disable my AFM if I can keep the system working well. But I don't want to spend another $5K on an engine overhaul in the future. Is there any other preventative maintenance or should I go ahead and hit the delete button? AND - Can I even delete/disable/remove the AFM if I have a Hybrid? Is it integral to the Hybrid control system?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,505
Posts
1,816,873
Members
92,720
Latest member
Yote1
Top