GMT900 Bose Premium Amp to Luxury Amp Upgrade

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Reebok59

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I just successfully upgraded my Bose Premium Amp to a Luxury Amp on my 2008 Suburban LTZ and wanted to share what I did. Yes, this upgrade can be done and it sounds so much better than the wimpy Premium Amp! First of all, many thanks to Ben for his GMT800 Upgrade thread “DYI Lux Nav Install” on the “Diesel Place” Forum and Joe for his GMT900 Upgrade thread “GMT900 Bose Premium Amp to Luxury Amp” on the “SilveradoSierra” Forum. It was primarily Joe’s work digging into the Electrical Wiring Diagrams and identifying the primary issues with the Premium to Luxury Amplifier Upgrade that allowed me to hit the ground running. You will want to read these threads if you are new to this. There is a long history with a lot of information that I will not duplicate here. Even though I performed this upgrade on a Suburban, just about everything documented here it is directly applicable to the Tahoe, Yukon, Silverado and Sierra (i.e., GMT900; 2007 to 2013 Light Duty C/K Full Size Utility Truck/SUV).


I was lucky enough to start with a 2008 Suburban LTZ with ROP Codes UQA (Premium 6Channel Bose), UBV (Radio w/Nav), U2K (Digital Audio System), UK6 (Rear Seat Audio) and U42 (Rear Seat DVD). I installed a Luxury Amplifier and Center Console Wiring Harness from a 2008 Yukon XL Denali with RPO Y91 that had the same Radio Part Number that I had in my LTZ. I got the VIN’s from the salvage yards and had the GM Dealership looked up the radio part numbers until got a match with my LTZ. I mainly did this so I could increase my chances for success. After many hour of studying electrical system drawings and performing the upgrade, I can’t imagine this upgrade (Amp swap only) working on any vehicle without RPO Codes UQA and UBV. May be able to do a complete Audio System (Radio and Amp) swap on a non-UQA/UBV vehicle, not really sure. There are just too many audio/electrical system differences and Bose compatibility issues. Not to mention every component communicates and is controlled across the GM Low Speed LAN (GMLS). For example, even though I got a match with the Radio and most everything seems to be working normal (i.e., steering wheel controls, NAV Voice Prompts, Chimes, Rear Park Assist, etc.), the amp will not mute the rear speakers when the Rear Seat Audio (RSA) is turned on. Not a big deal, but still trying to figure this one out, for some reason the Amp is not responding to the Radio telling it to mute across the GMLS. It may be something like the Body Control Module (BCM) needs a tweak, not sure. So here is the disclaimer; I am sharing my success and configuration in detail so you can understand fully what I was able to accomplish if you choose to apply any part of it. I will not be able to answer any questions or provide any advice for any other configuration (i.e., use of a non-NAV Radio, use of Amp in location other than the console, use of 5.1 (UQS) Amplifier, etc.). I will try to answer questions for clarification, but there is no way I can answer or support all the question this subject could generate. Good Luck!


I was able to confirm that the following Radios and Amplifiers are compatible (there may be others).
Radio P/N’s: 25846421 and 20862567
Y91 Amplifier P/N’s: 15937318 and 20808897


If you have read some of the other threads regarding this subject you have seen this statement; “the only difference in the LUX system and the PREM system is the Amp, that all the speakers are the same”. Well it turns out that the D-pillar speakers, if you have them, are different. Since they are wired parallel with the rear door speakers in the PREM system, they are 12.5 OHM and they have crossover capacitors. The LUX D-pillar speakers are on a separate channel and are 3.2 OHM to better match the impedance of the door speakers. Also, supposedly the three Amp connectors are the same for the PREM and LUX Amps. Well, one of the connectors is grooved different, not directly interchangeable, but could be modified to make it work.


Attached here are the Pin-out Tables for the Amplifiers and the 30-Pin Console Wiring Harness. As you will see, there are many differences in the PREM and LUX Amp Pins that would require re-pinning and adding new wires/pins for many connections (i.e., D-pillar speakers, center speaker, NAV Voice Prompt, VNC MIC, and GMLS) if you used your existing console wiring harness. And for the 30-Pin Console Wiring Harness, there are very few differences. Therefore, it is highly recommended to obtain and use a Y91 console wiring harness. Basically plug-n-play with the exception of adding NAV Voice Prompt shielded pair, re-routing rear speaker wires, changing out D-pillar speakers and reprogramming the Radio. I have included detailed comments and notes on the Pin-out Tables which should prove to be very useful if you choose to take on this upgrade.

PREM and LUX Amp Connections.pdf

Console Wiring Harness Connection 108.pdf

Attached here is picture of the NAV Voice Prompt shielded pair that I made using shielded sections and pins removed from my original non-Y91 Console Wiring Harness. The details are included in the Pin-out Tables above.

NAV Prompt Shielded Pair.JPG

Attached here is a picture of rear speaker wiring. The details are included in the Pin-out Tables above.

Rear Speaker Wire Routing.JPG

Attached here is a picture of the LUX Amp setting in place with the Y91 Console Wiring Harness, all unplugged and ready to go for Radio reprogramming.

LUX Amp & Harness.JPG

Hope you find this information accurate and useful. In addition to the information shared in this string, I would recommend downloading a copy of the 2007 C/K Full Size Utility Truck Electrical Manual for reference.

https://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/2007_BB/2007_LD_FS_CK_Utility_Elec.pdf

Finally rocking with a kicking Sub,
Scott
 

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  • PREM and LUX Amp Connections.pdf
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Reebok59

Reebok59

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Here is some supplemental information. I was limited to five (5) files in the original post.

Here is a picture of the female connectors I removed from P108 to make the NAV Voice Prompt shielded pair.
Reused Pins.JPG

Here is a picture of the Body Connector at the passenger side kick panel where I cut the rear speaker wires so they could be re-routed under the seat to the console area.
Rear SPK Body Connector.JPG

Here is a picture of the VNC MIC location up inside the console.
VNC Microphone.jpg
 

08grey

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Wow nice job. Did you say you also added a sub? Did you use gm speakers for the d pillars or regular 4ohm speakera?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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Reebok59

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As stated, I started with RPO UQA (Premium 6-Channel Bose). All the Bose speakers for the Premium 6-channel system (including the Sub) are identical to the Luxury 9-channel system except the D-pillar speakers. So I had to change out the D-pillar speakers with the LUX Bose speakers from a Denali which are 3.2 OHM to better match the door speaker impedance as they are now on a separate channel. When you upgrade to the LUX Amp you get 9 separate channels including a Center speaker. So I also added the OEM Bose 3.35 OHM Center Dash speaker inside the Driver Side Console Kick Panel. With the LUX Amp, the stock Bose Sub comes alive. Huge difference! It won't rattle the windows or side panels but the rearview mirror will vibrate and you can feel it in your gut! The PREM Amp was so wimpy, I didn't know I even had a Sub until I did some research on it. I am very happy with the clear crisp sound and power the system now delivers.

UQA-Y91 = Premium Non-Luxury Speaker System (6-channel Bose)
UQA&Y91 = Premium Luxury Speaker System (9-channel Bose)

The difference is the LUX Amp and the D-pillar speakers (and of course a little wiring, a VNC MIC and reprograming of the Radio).
 
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Reebok59

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I have attached some links to other Forums for threads related to this topic for your reference and reading pleasure.

DIY Lux Radio/Amp Upgrade
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/diy-lux-radio-amp-upgrade.1019/


2007+ GMT-900 Bose Lux Amp Upgrade Info
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/81-electrical/345703-2007-gmt-900-bose-lux-amp-upgrade-info.html#/topics/345703?page=1


All About The GMT-900 Audio Systems
http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=65125.0;wap2


GMT900 Bose Premium Amp to Lux Amp
http://www.silveradosierra.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=14&t=583137

Enjoy,
Scott
 
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Reebok59

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I have attached a picture showing the difference in the Luxury Amp (UQA&Y91) and the Premium Amp (UQA-Y91). Actually there are two different LUX Amps depending on the RPO Code. They basically look the same except the UQA&Y91 Amp has 3 connections and the UQS Amp has 4 connections.

UQA-Y91 Premium Amp (small amp shown): 6 channel output and 4.0 input (RF, LF, RR and LR)
UQA&Y91 Luxury Amp (larger amp shown): 9 channel output and 2.0 input (RF and LF)
UQS Luxury Amp (not shown): 9 channel output with Surround and 5.1 input (RF, LF, RR, LR, CTR and Sub)

20170417_181525.jpg
 
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Reebok59

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Just wanted to add a quick update. My statement above "I can’t imagine this upgrade (Amp swap only) working on any vehicle without RPO Codes UQA and UBV" has been proven otherwise. Over on the SilveradoSierra Forum, Joe just completed the LUX Amp upgrade (Amp swap only) on a non-Nav Bose system with Radio UUI in a 2012 SLT. And based on that fact, it should work on non-Nav Bose systems with Radio UUN as well. Evidently both Radios can be reprogramed to the Y91 configuration to work with the LUX Amp. You can check out his success at the link below.

http://www.silveradosierra.com/mobile-electronics/gmt900-bose-premium-amp-to-luxury-amp-t583137.html
 

Ob1hybrid

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Nice work. I already have the Y91 amp, and I'm in the process of swapping out all speakers and adding a more powerful amp but keeping everything 2ohms so I can use the factory wiring. I've been trying to find the male and female 16pin connectors so I could go from luxury amp to lc7i to new amp back to factory harness. Plug and play. Do you know the part #s for the two?
 
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Reebok59

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Sorry, but I do not know. When I was doing my research, I was having problems finding the male connectors and pins for the Bose connections so I could make a plug-n-play adapter. I was able to find the connectors and pins for most of the OEM Delphi connections but not the Bose stuff. May be a propitiatory thing with Bose. That is why using an OEM Y91 harness was needed for my project. However, you may be able to get an old Amp/wiring harness and salvage the connectors and make something work. You can also try searching Mouser.com for the parts you are looking for. You can get the connector part numbers from the Electrical Wiring diagrams and search for it on Mouser.com. If you get a hit, you can then drill down to "related parts" and find the Delphi pins/connectors that fit that connector part number. That is how I found the OEM Delphi connector and pins that I used for my speaker connections and purchased them from Mouser.

Good Luck!
 

Ob1hybrid

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OK cool. I spoke to someone at mouser earlier and they were not really of help. Anyhow for my B plan, I bought 4 sets of male female 8pin connection harness from ebay and plan to cut the speaker out wires 8" s or so after the amp and butt connect my own harness. My Plug and play alternative. I'll still look for it.
 

juan84

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So is it safe to say I can cut the dark green wire for anc to disable it

sent from galaxy s6
 
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Reebok59

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Can you provide a little more information to your question? I am not sure what "anc" is. The only dark green (D-GN) wires I have documented in this thread are associated with GMLS, Subwoofer, VNC Mic, LF Audio in and RF Speaker.
 

juan84

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Sorry I was referring to active nois control been looking around trying to find how to disable it on my Yukon . I added a sub to factory radio now getting a noise feed back through sub
 
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Reebok59

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I thought you may have been referring to Active Noise Control (ANC). However, ANC is very different than Vehicle Noise Control (VNC). Depending on the Bose Amp you have, you may have one or the other. The UQA systems (2.0 Bose Amps with 3 connections) have VNC with one MIC in the console (ie, the D-GN wire to the MIC that I think you are referring to in your question). The UQS systems (5.1 Bose Amps with 4 connections) have ANC with 3 MIC's in the headliner and an engine RPM signal from the ECM. These are all inputs to the Bose Amp. Having said that, if you have VNC with the single MIC in the console, I am not sure if cutting the D-GN wire to the MIC will actually disable it. You can simply unplug the MIC to see what happens. The connection is just under the cup holder on the left. The Bose Amp has a timer in it that checks NOISE every 5 minutes and compensates for it. So I am not sure how it will react to the MIC being disconnected. However, if you have ANC, it is much more complicated. Sorry, I am not much help in disabling VNC or ANC. I have no experience with it. Good luck.
 

juan84

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I thought you may have been referring to Active Noise Control (ANC). However, ANC is very different than Vehicle Noise Control (VNC). Depending on the Bose Amp you have, you may have one or the other. The UQA systems (2.0 Bose Amps with 3 connections) have VNC with one MIC in the console (ie, the D-GN wire to the MIC that I think you are referring to in your question). The UQS systems (5.1 Bose Amps with 4 connections) have ANC with 3 MIC's in the headliner and an engine RPM signal from the ECM. These are all inputs to the Bose Amp. Having said that, if you have VNC with the single MIC in the console, I am not sure if cutting the D-GN wire to the MIC will actually disable it. You can simply unplug the MIC to see what happens. The connection is just under the cup holder on the left. The Bose Amp has a timer in it that checks NOISE every 5 minutes and compensates for it. So I am not sure how it will react to the MIC being disconnected. However, if you have ANC, it is much more complicated. Sorry, I am not much help in disabling VNC or ANC. I have no experience with it. Good luck.
Yea unfortunately I have the more complicated one lol the denali


sent from galaxy s6
 

roadcrew

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Scott, thank you so much for the very detailed write up. . . you've saved others so much work! I always puzzled over why my Silverado's Bose system doesn't sound nearly as impressive as Bose systems I've had in Corvettes. Would it be too much trouble to get the P/N from you for the "plug and play" Y91 harness you bought? I've searched ebay, but most listings only identify them by year/make of vehicle, not by Y91 option. I could just buy one and take a chance, re-pin it if necessary, but if I could get the P/N for the one you ordered, I'd rather start out with the right one.

Thanks!
 
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Reebok59

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William,

Glad to know someone may benefit from me sharing this upgrade. The P/N of the Denali Y91 Console Wiring Harness that I used is 13596837 and it was removed from a 2008 Denali XL. If the harness is from a Denali with the same rear seat radio and DVD set-up as yours, it should work just fine. Good luck. Mine is still working great! Only thing is the rear speaker mute issue mentioned above. But since I have learned that there is a non-Y91 and a Y91 version of the RSA Module. Funny that they have the exact same part number. Not sure yet if it is just a software issue that can be reprogramed or not. Either way, it is not an issue I cannot live with.

BTW, the VNC mic P/N is 15240415. You will need one of these too. Most of the time the salvage yard will cut these loose from the harness unless they get very specific instructions.

Good Luck!
 

roadcrew

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Scott,

Thank you so much for the quick reply and the additional information. Greatly appreciated! Actually, my truck does not have any rear entertainment. I just assumed there would be no compatibility issues with something that's absent. . . I hope I'm not wrong. Also, I'm not running the stock head unit, but a Rosen GM1210 which is a bone-stock appearing head unit with built-in NAV/XM/Bluetooth/iPod interface and full compatibility with the premium/lux Bose, OnStar, backup camera, CAN/UART (steering wheel controls, etc). Also, Rosen provides wire harnesses for both the premium and lux Bose system. . . so I'm thinking I shouldn't have any issues with needing to reprogram anything. Fingers crossed.

Thanks again,
Bill
 

roadcrew

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Scott,

I just want to make sure I'm understanding your instructions correctly. I got my Lux amp & harness yesterday. I decided before making all the mods I'd test the amp to make sure it's good. Following your pin charts, I cut A2&A3 on my Y91 harness. For testing purposes, I left C10-C12 alone, as I understood they were only for NAV voice prompts (my head unit has built-in NAV).

With no other mods, I plugged in the new Y91 harness and LUX amp and powered up the head unit. If I understand things correctly, the amp should at least come on and play sound through the front speakers. My head unit (Rosen) is compatible with both the premium and Lux Bose amps without any programming changes. . . and it plays fine through the stock premium amp. I'm puzzled why I don't at least hear sound in the front speakers and I'm thinking they sent me a defective amp. Does my thinking here sound correct, or was one of those other mods (A6/GMLS or C10-C12) necessary before the amp will even work?

I'm leaving for a cross-country trip tomorrow and would sure love to have this thing working for such a long drive!

Thanks
Bill
 

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