Will a DOD delete fix a lifter tick?

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RET423

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If your DOD is the issue the problem isn't a lifter bleeding down, it's a lifter not remaining locked in the normal position when it should be; it drops below the locks & creates the lash that is an audible tick, when the lifter manages to relocate in the normal position the preload is restored and the tick goes away

If that is what is happening the tick will be accompanied by a misfire which will also go away when the lifter resets; pushrod length is checked any time a change is made to the valve train geometry.

New cam, lifters & head gaskets often are enough to alter the geometry so you verify the length upon reassembly, but pushrod length will not create an audible, intermittent valve lash tick on one lifter in an engine that has recently developed the symptom
 
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thefrey

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If your DOD is the issue the problem isn't a lifter bleeding down, it's a lifter not remaining locked in the normal position when it should be; it drops below the locks & creates the lash that is an audible tick, when the lifter manages to relocate in the normal position the preload is restored and the tick goes away

If that is what is happening the tick will be accompanied by a misfire which will also go away when the lifter resets; pushrod length is checked any time a change is made to the valve train geometry.

New cam, lifters & head gaskets often are enough to alter the geometry so you verify the length upon reassembly, but pushrod length will not create an audible, intermittent valve lash tick on one lifter in an engine that has recently developed the symptom

I know 100% (or at least think) it is not a true "collapsed" lifter that is stuck in the locked/collapsed position as it is not accompanied by a misfire that throws a CEL. I had that happen to me about 6 months ago... I uncollapsed it and have drove on it for about 15K miles. I cut the gaskets on my VLOM and use a range AFM disabler to make sure it doesn't accidentally collapse again.

I am under the assumption the lifter is slowly failing. I'm not 100% sure, but I am just at the point where I am spending too much time and energy trying to diagnose it, so I'm just going to do a DOD delete and call it a day so I can drive another 50-100k miles hopefully.
 

Foggy

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The dod delete would include all new lifters.. So the short answer is YES
And replacing the cam included so you if you have cam scoring/wear it
would take care of that too
 

opfor2

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My 2011 had a slight tick and I've been adding one bottle, 16.9 Fl Oz of Rislone engine treatment to the oil and the tick went away. My understanding is that the lifters are starved for oil which causes the tick the Rislone cleans all of the oil passages and increases the oil flow. I don't think it would hurt to try the Rislone just make sure you change the oil every 5000 miles. BTW, my DOD has been bypassed via tune.
 
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thefrey

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My 2011 had a slight tick and I've been adding one bottle, 16.9 Fl Oz of Rislone engine treatment to the oil and the tick went away. My understanding is that the lifters are starved for oil which causes the tick the Rislone cleans all of the oil passages and increases the oil flow. I don't think it would hurt to try the Rislone just make sure you change the oil every 5000 miles. BTW, my DOD has been bypassed via tune.

I actually tried Rislone and it gave me a CEL, and it didn't seem to do much... It gave me a CEL for a crank position sensor. I researched it and some people said that it can be common with additives to throw a code and changing the oil will fix it. I changed the oil and the CEL went away. I am just going to mechanically delete it so I don't have to worry about it.

I know people have had good luck with Rislone, though... Not me I guess haha.
 

opfor2

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I actually tried Rislone and it gave me a CEL, and it didn't seem to do much... It gave me a CEL for a crank position sensor. I researched it and some people said that it can be common with additives to throw a code and changing the oil will fix it. I changed the oil and the CEL went away. I am just going to mechanically delete it so I don't have to worry about it.

I know people have had good luck with Rislone, though... Not me I guess haha.
Hmmm, that's strange I haven't had an issue but every Tahoe is different lol
 

donjetman

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Ski Cooper loving it
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the 18th letter

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preciate the info.

I drive a lot for work so I'm consistently driving between 1-3 hours away and the car hasn't given me any issues at all. It's just the tick, but it's been a tick that it's had ever since I've owned it and it really hasn't gotten worse in the past 20k miles... I would feel way more comfortable knowing if it won't leave me stranded, but I don't know if it's just a superficial tick or something to be concerned about that needs attention asap.
20k miles and frequent 1-3 hour trips? I’m surprised you still hear the noise at this point. That’s a lot of miles to still be worried about it leaving you stranded.
 
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thefrey

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20k miles and frequent 1-3 hour trips? I’m surprised you still hear the noise at this point. That’s a lot of miles to still be worried about it leaving you stranded.

I went ahead and did a DOD delete.. found out my #4 piston was cracked. Not sure if that was my noise or not, but I don't hear a ticking noise anymore. I put a new piston in and have put about 6k miles on it in the past 4 weeks.


I’m surprised you still hear the noise at this point
Would you have expected the noise to go away?
 

the 18th letter

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Would you have expected the noise to go away?
No, but you can go earblind to regular consistent noises. This happens with the air pump on my suspension. On start up sometimes I won’t hear it because I’ve gotten so used to it, I almost have to actively listen for it. Could be age also
 
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I am going to do this probably this weekend. I don't have access to the tools right now to be able to turn over the engine by hand.

I thought that installing a longer/shorter pushrod won't work for the AFM lifters, but I may be incorrect in saying that.

I also am not sure why I would need a longer or shorter pushrod if everything is stock. Perhaps there is wear on a lobe or something. Wouldn't installing a longer/shorter pushrod in order to reduce tick just be a bandaid with the AFM lifters?
Keep your stock pushrod length before you get into more trouble. Try to locate the tick with a mechanic stethoscope to point you in the right direction.
 
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I found that crazy crust on my cylinders came from the PCV hose into the intake palenium after I cleaned my cylinders during my delete, soon after the PCV stopped working and I had a big oil burn from the oil. I also had to reseat my head gaskets, seperate issue. So I got back in there. I had to reclean my cylinders and I put a catch can in line. Im sure that the original engineers hated to see oil get fed into the intake and waste the internals. Valve stems take the biggest hit.
 

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