Which one do i want?

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Vladimir2306

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I vote unequivocally for 6.2. There is no such thing as a lot of power)))) and the consumption is 6.2 liters less than 5.3. Because 6.2 is more likely to work in v4 mode
 

bad_idea

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One more vote for the Yukon XL Denali. Just bought a 2018 six months ago. Love the truck. The 6.2 is very nice, plenty of power. I bought mine with the plan to road trip it pulling a car trailer with the jeep on it. Has performed well so far. Mine is the family vehicle, wife doesn't work, so fuel bill only went up marginally. Haven't towed with it yet, that is the plan for tomorrow (dad is buying a 73 Gran Torino four hours away).
 

the 18th letter

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3.42 gear ratio is correct...

3.55 was wrong, I was quoting one of my other vehicles rear gear... I have 3.27, 2.92, 3.42, 3.55, 3.90, 3.89 here at the house... Sometimes I forget. Fixed my orig post. Thanks.
Decided to pass on the 15 I was eyeing. 77k but the CF had a lot of battery service checks and a computer reprogram. Going to stack a little more coin and find a 17 or better. Thankfully I don't need it to get back and forth to work so i can afford to be picky. The Brick City Bully has taken me from here to yonder and back but it's time to garage it until it's a classic.
 

Bigkevschopshop

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Decided to pass on the 15 I was eyeing. 77k but the CF had a lot of battery service checks and a computer reprogram. Going to stack a little more coin and find a 17 or better. Thankfully I don't need it to get back and forth to work so i can afford to be picky. The Brick City Bully has taken me from here to yonder and back but it's time to garage it until it's a classic.
Yeah, the reprogram may be a concern, but I have seen someone take a chevy in 10 times for the voltage going down while driving thinking something was wrong. So the battery service checks are normally related to that, but yeah I would be picky, its your money, spend it wisely.
 

the 18th letter

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Yeah, the reprogram may be a concern, but I have seen someone take a chevy in 10 times for the voltage going down while driving thinking something was wrong. So the battery service checks are normally related to that, but yeah I would be picky, its your money, spend it wisely.
I gotta stay focused on what I want exactly lol. Saw the one for me but it was 3 hours away and I putted around and someone else bought it before I got off my ass. :( to go get it. The one I passed on was a second choice anyway.
 

the 18th letter

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I've test driven 3 rigs from 2015-2017 (77k to 113k) and none have had cold AC during test drives. Is the AC a problem spot for these trucks or just fml?
 

Miami-Dade

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I've test driven 3 rigs from 2015-2017 (77k to 113k) and none have had cold AC during test drives. Is the AC a problem spot for these trucks or just fml?
They did have a issue with the Condenser from 2015-2017. My 2016 went out at 80K miles. I would say by now most of them were probably repaired.
 

TahoeFL2017

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Just replaced my condenser at 79k, so they do go out. $1300 repair and AC will freeze you out now.

If the AC is warm, something is wrong, period, been through that crap enough living in FL.

I saw a previous comment about the trans - my 2017 Tahoe LT has a 6 speed, not an 8 speed - unless I'm crazy, but sure feels like 6 gears.

For what it's worth - coming out of a F250 Lariat extended with the diesel - I love being able to whip a u turn in the short body Tahoe. Thing turns like a jeep in tight spots.

But with 4 kids I'd get the XL.

5.3 is plenty of power BTW for the regular Tahoe, I test drove a XL with the 6.2 and it was a beast.

But premium is a turn off for me, too many rural stations are a crapshoot, and we road trip to weird places around the south.

Great trucks, you love either one, had a loaner Dodge Ram during repairs and couldn't drop it back off fast enough, no comparison to a Tahoe or Yukon.
 

Bigkevschopshop

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I've test driven 3 rigs from 2015-2017 (77k to 113k) and none have had cold AC during test drives. Is the AC a problem spot for these trucks or just fml?
Its weird, they take a few min to start really cooling down. My 15 will start blowing cold, but it does take a bit for the unit to really start getting down to cold temp. I think the cooling fan on the motor doesn't move enough air when first started to really take up the thermal load the ac is inducing is part of the issue. Get it going above 50 and hold it there for a good solid few minutes and the vent temps go from 55 to 43... Once you get the cabin cool it will maintain the 40 degree vent temps but just takes a while to overcome the solar load etc also in the interior. I have put the gauges on it, and the pressures read correct after a few minutes, but on first start up the pressures read high then fall down where they are supposed to be.
 

Miami-Dade

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Its weird, they take a few min to start really cooling down. My 15 will start blowing cold, but it does take a bit for the unit to really start getting down to cold temp. I think the cooling fan on the motor doesn't move enough air when first started to really take up the thermal load the ac is inducing is part of the issue. Get it going above 50 and hold it there for a good solid few minutes and the vent temps go from 55 to 43... Once you get the cabin cool it will maintain the 40 degree vent temps but just takes a while to overcome the solar load etc also in the interior. I have put the gauges on it, and the pressures read correct after a few minutes, but on first start up the pressures read high then fall down where they are supposed to be.
Now that I think about it my 2016 is the same way. Guess I am so used to it. If it is on 65 or lower it gets plenty cold quick enough. I generally leave it set at 72 all the time. Do not like to keep constantly adjusting temerature. In cold months in NYC I keep the a/c system in the Bi-Leverl position. Keeps the windows clear and Hoe comfy. I never shut the a/c system off.
 

Vladimir2306

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As far as I remember, the Tahoe K2XX problem was due to the pipes that are in front of the radiator. In Russia, we have a list of mandatory work that we do immediately after buying a car, this is the preservation of air conditioning pipes, this is the conservation of the VIN number, the removal of the air intake pipe for pneumatic cylinders into the passenger compartment. As a result, our cars drive 200-300 thousand km without problems with air conditioning.
 

TahoeFL2017

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"Get it going above 50 and hold it there for a good solid few minutes and the vent temps go from 55 to 43... Once you get the cabin cool it will maintain the 40 degree vent temps but just takes a while to overcome the solar load etc also in the interior. "

That's what mine was doing before I replaced the evaporator.

Exactly what it was doing.

I drove it for about a month and it got worse, and I remembered that was the same pattern as when I had a new rear condenser put in under warranty.

In Florida, AC is mandatory, so it becomes clear something is wrong.

Not trying to argue - but my truck can sit in 93 degrees idling in my driveway, when I use auto-start, and it gets cold in 5-10 minutes or less, with zero time on the road.

Maybe evaporators and condensers fail slowly so they still work if you get the revs up?
 

the 18th letter

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Test drove one today and the AC was cold so I bought it lol. Seriously tho, i did pull the trigger today but not just because of the cold AC. I'll update the thread once I get some pics of her.
 

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