ahunn
Member
I'm going to try this and see what happens. I did clean it real good previously to find out where the leak was but I didn't tighten anything. I'll let you know if it works.
What should i do about oil leak
- Thread starter ahunn
- Start date
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
I don't think that the parts required for these jobs total even $100. The rest I guess is a lot of tax and shop supplies!
One thing about having the repair done at a dealer, it's warranted across the nation. Some shops like Napa offer similar warrantees.
ahunn
Member
There's nothing personal on it so I'll take a pic of quote. Price of parts is ridiculous though.
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ahunn
Member
Still leaking unfortunately
$180 for an oil pan gasket? Whoa.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
While it is customary for shops to charge retail for gaskets, that is ridiculous. If they are that dishonest, I would not trust them to check the air in my tires.
These are the current prices at Amazon.com, delivered!
If yours were mine, I would crawl under there with a ratchet and socket and gently tighten the oil pan bolts and poke around for any other loose bolts and such looking for leaks, especially around the engine oil cooler lines as they were leaking on mine at the gasket above the oil filter. We eventually replaced the lines as they were plumb wore out. If my teenage daughters can do this work, you can too. Then buy yourself a new pistol or take your wife away for the weekend with all the money you saved!
ahunn
Member
I forgot to check for the cooler lines when I was out there earlier but I'll look around there in the morning. I'll hopefully find a shop that will treat me right and have some honest prices.
Leevon
Full Access Member
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2 quarts of oil at a time...you're burning it too. Keep that in mind while making $ decisions.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
x2 on both of these replies. That’s a whole lot of oil to be ******* out in that short amount of time
-What brand and weight oil are you currently running?
-Have you replaced the drivers side valve cover with the updated one per the TSB (10-06-01-008F)?
-If so, have you rechecked the torque specs on your valve cover? Did you oil the gasket prior to install, if so, good initiative bad judgement - the valve cover gaskets need to be clean and dry, same goes for their mating surfaces.
-Do you have a catch can installed?
-What’s the vehicle info (year make, model, mileage)? You didn’t have any info on your page and forgot to mention it in your initial post.
ahunn
Member
It's more like between 1 and 2 quarts of oil. It depends on how hard I drive her. If I don't drive her much I may put in a quart every 2 to 3 weeks.
I'm using 5w30 oil.
I have not added a catch can but I did order one last week after reading through a few threads.
I read about the updated valve cover a few days ago but I have not done that yet. I'll order one and add that to the growing list of things to repair. It looks like an easy job that I can complete when I replace my plugs, wires and coils since I've never changed them.
07 Tahoe LTZ 4wd, I'm at 232,000 miles. I haven't had to many problems out of her until now and now everything is breaking. At this mileage I guess I am due for it.
ahunn
Member
So I just checked again and I don't have the oil cooler lines. The blockoff plate does look to be leaking tho. The oil pan looks bad again and I see oil around rear main. I'm gonna order the blockoff plate and new valve cover. I'll see how it goes after that.
I'm still trying to find another mechanic with a good price. It's not looking good and I may wind up going with a guy who will do the repair for 1400. sigh. Well I'm off to bed. Got work at 4 in the am.
I'm still trying to find another mechanic with a good price. It's not looking good and I may wind up going with a guy who will do the repair for 1400. sigh. Well I'm off to bed. Got work at 4 in the am.
How are you able to see the rear main?
On my 02 I used one of these and it sealed right up. The stock ones are flimsy compared to this one.
WickedGoat
Member
My guess is there are multiple oil leaks going on and I am confident that the OP can do this work and save a f*ck-ton of money in the process.
My 2004 Yukon is just shy off 200k miles and I just fixed a few leaks. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, the oil pressure sending unit (because it comes with a new gasket), the oil cooler block off plate gasket, and the oil pan gasket, which had been seeping for quite a while. I also bought a rear main seal cover and installation tool but ended up not doing the rear main.
I did the valve covers and oil pressure sending unit one day and did the oil pan and block off cover plate gaskets another day. I tried to get the oil pressure sender without removing the intake but no dice. I pulled the intake and checked the valley cover and the crank or cam sensor next to the oil sender and both looked good to me. The oil sender was pretty wet.
The oil pan gasket was not bad at all with 4WD. Non 4WD is a walk in the park. The hardest part is snaking the pan back up in place with the new gasket, if you didn't rivet the new one on like I didn't. While I had the pan off I replaced the oil pump pick up tube seal just because. After all of this, if my rear main is leaking, it is very little and not worth the effort to pull the trans at this time. I did this work a few months ago and the engine is very clean. I saw a couple of trails but it could be from cleaning the engine. I used 2 cans of brake cleaner on it and then hit it with a can of engine degreaser and power washed it. There are no more drips in my driveway. Save yourself some money and fix this stuff yourself.
My 2004 Yukon is just shy off 200k miles and I just fixed a few leaks. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, the oil pressure sending unit (because it comes with a new gasket), the oil cooler block off plate gasket, and the oil pan gasket, which had been seeping for quite a while. I also bought a rear main seal cover and installation tool but ended up not doing the rear main.
I did the valve covers and oil pressure sending unit one day and did the oil pan and block off cover plate gaskets another day. I tried to get the oil pressure sender without removing the intake but no dice. I pulled the intake and checked the valley cover and the crank or cam sensor next to the oil sender and both looked good to me. The oil sender was pretty wet.
The oil pan gasket was not bad at all with 4WD. Non 4WD is a walk in the park. The hardest part is snaking the pan back up in place with the new gasket, if you didn't rivet the new one on like I didn't. While I had the pan off I replaced the oil pump pick up tube seal just because. After all of this, if my rear main is leaking, it is very little and not worth the effort to pull the trans at this time. I did this work a few months ago and the engine is very clean. I saw a couple of trails but it could be from cleaning the engine. I used 2 cans of brake cleaner on it and then hit it with a can of engine degreaser and power washed it. There are no more drips in my driveway. Save yourself some money and fix this stuff yourself.
badtothe bone
Full Access Member
TRansmission shop here charges about $550 - $600 to change a transmission. Once the transmission is out - its simple to change the rear main seal, it unbolts and no you don't have to take off the oil pan to change it. Lots of bad advice here on this forum. With oil, fluid for the trans and a new trans filter I would put the whole job at $800.00 Then you would have something.
Not only would your oil leak problem be solved, but you would start out again with a clean transmission and new tranny pan gasket and front oil seal on the transmission.
Not only would your oil leak problem be solved, but you would start out again with a clean transmission and new tranny pan gasket and front oil seal on the transmission.
And pray tell what bad advice are you referring to here on this forum?
My rear main seal has been leaking on my 2000 Yukon for over 100,000 miles. It's an expensive repair and there is no guarantee that it won't eventually leak again. Mine actually got a little better as the vehicle aged, LOL. So, I'm just adding oil as needed. 2 quarts every 2 weeks sounds like a lot just for the rear main. I agree on checking the bolts on the oil pan.
$800 seems cheap. Having done one of these before, even with a lift and all the equipment I wouldn't do a 4WD rear main for that. I'd value my work more than that.
Will they take care to not break electrical connectors?
Will they replace both the rear cover and rear main?
Will they clean the belt threads to get accurate torque when installing?
CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
Yeah $600 of it is transmission r&r otherwise it’s cake…
My repairman quoted $800 to replace the rear mail seal on my Z71. He said that it’s easier for him to pull the engine to do the seal and pan gasket replacement. Both he and the oil change place advised me to keep adding oil until it got much worse or if I couldn’t stand the leaks. The leak’s not bad.
