New Mohicans hopefully these last as long as the last ones
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Put a new one in the Silverado as well, lots of fun when there is a ton of crap hooked up and in the way, have to move the reservoir out of the way too otherwise that bastard ain't coming out, just in time for it to start raining
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ya the k2's have a integrated fusible link/ multi-fuse that sits on top of the battery, I just happen to have extra equipment hooked up as well winch, amps, air ride, air compressor, lights, etc
I burnt one of the links out before that plate is about $120 and not repairable. It's split into different ratings like 40a/80a/120a, something to that affect
sometimes if one of those burns out you get a no start situation, or half the vehicle will not work and unless you check each link with a meter you can't tell and it leads to all sorts of headaches, it's came up a few times on the k2's
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I just replaced mine last night. It was 3+ years old and Sunday night it gave me the 'ol Whrr, Whrr, slow crank, *** puckered up. Did ok for a day. Then Tues night, same thing. NO WAY brother. I jumped right on that sht!!! She's very happy now.
Mine were almost 5 years old which is a stretch for here, it gets so hot and then now that the temperature dropped I could tell they were getting weak, it was time.I just replaced mine last night. It was 3+ years old and Sunday night it gave me the 'ol Whrr, Whrr, slow crank, *** puckered up. Did ok for a day. Then Tues night, same thing. NO WAY brother. I jumped right on that sht!!! She's very happy now.
I have a charger that will give like a 50a start boost if needed but haven't had to use that thing in good while when I had the 03 silverado it would sit for a few weeks sometimes and go dead.
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Geoffsfas10
Full Access Member
Here's a random one for you...
You think my rear liftglass would be fine for like a 2, maybe 3 miles drive open? i need to bring some 14' pieces of crown moulding home, last time i put them on the roof rack they snapped. I would imagine for such a short drive it should be fine. max speed would be 40 and thats only for maybe a mile
You think my rear liftglass would be fine for like a 2, maybe 3 miles drive open? i need to bring some 14' pieces of crown moulding home, last time i put them on the roof rack they snapped. I would imagine for such a short drive it should be fine. max speed would be 40 and thats only for maybe a mile
just super granny it and yes, by that I mean accelerate and brake very slow and leave a big gap in front of you if traffic has to stop
Geoffsfas10
Full Access Member
thatd typical driving for me anyway so not an issue haha
I prefer to bungee mine down with a towel rapped around the protruding object to protect the glass.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Hemmed and hawwed for a week, but ended up ordering two front 5100s, when I should have just done it a while ago.
IIRC, when I installed the RC leveling kit a while ago one of the front struts wouldn't come out. Even with the three top bolts undone it acted like it was glued into the frame. Should probably start soaking it all now.
IIRC, when I installed the RC leveling kit a while ago one of the front struts wouldn't come out. Even with the three top bolts undone it acted like it was glued into the frame. Should probably start soaking it all now.
Back in April my lower shift cable failed. The first attempt at repair was a failure. I tried part# 14104 link bushing by Dorman. Do NOT use those.
The second attempt worked, using Dorman #14073 with a snap ring and washers (spacers) I picked up from Home Depot. After 6 months it started to feel like that plastic was getting weak and might fail.
I went ahead and bought a lower shift cable from rock auto and installed it. It was an easy install. There are a couple videos on YT that are pretty good and several that are not.
Second fix. This was before I decided to put some spacers between the cable loop and the snap ring. I felt the gap would create problems.
Final fix:
For some reason my cowl didn't have a weather strip / gasket when I bought the vehicle. I pulled one from a yard and finally got around to installing it
The second attempt worked, using Dorman #14073 with a snap ring and washers (spacers) I picked up from Home Depot. After 6 months it started to feel like that plastic was getting weak and might fail.
I went ahead and bought a lower shift cable from rock auto and installed it. It was an easy install. There are a couple videos on YT that are pretty good and several that are not.
Second fix. This was before I decided to put some spacers between the cable loop and the snap ring. I felt the gap would create problems.
Final fix:
For some reason my cowl didn't have a weather strip / gasket when I bought the vehicle. I pulled one from a yard and finally got around to installing it
Yeah I remember you helping me when I posted the issue back in April. I'm glad its working well for you.
I opted for an oem cable because the original cable lasted 15 years and I had some store credit at rock auto.
Annual power steering flush, 13 months to be exact
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Accomplished 2 out of the 3 tasks yesterday.
1. Replaced the passenger running board with a less smashed part.
2. Reverted the Speed Engineering cold intake kit back to OEM. It dramatically lowered the exhaust drone between 1900-2300 rpms going back to the plastic intake with all its Heimholz dingleberries chopping up ugly frequencies. Now I'm curious if I can get away with the other muffler I just removed because it was too droney inside the cabin.
3. The fail was dealing with the exhaust that probably got a little banged up from the trail I was fighting the other day. The tailpipe was touching the bottom of the bumper, and started to melt it. No matter how many times I twisted the sections, it just kept settling back into a position that touched the bumper. The it got too dark to see.
I guess I'll have to come up with a creative way to bend the tailpipe section, or knock off the tip, cut the tailpipe by an inch or two, and reassemble everything.
(My new lug nuts also arrived last night, but I might wait to swap on the winter wheels/tires for a bit; not much snow in the forecast.)
1. Replaced the passenger running board with a less smashed part.
2. Reverted the Speed Engineering cold intake kit back to OEM. It dramatically lowered the exhaust drone between 1900-2300 rpms going back to the plastic intake with all its Heimholz dingleberries chopping up ugly frequencies. Now I'm curious if I can get away with the other muffler I just removed because it was too droney inside the cabin.
3. The fail was dealing with the exhaust that probably got a little banged up from the trail I was fighting the other day. The tailpipe was touching the bottom of the bumper, and started to melt it. No matter how many times I twisted the sections, it just kept settling back into a position that touched the bumper. The it got too dark to see.
I guess I'll have to come up with a creative way to bend the tailpipe section, or knock off the tip, cut the tailpipe by an inch or two, and reassemble everything.
(My new lug nuts also arrived last night, but I might wait to swap on the winter wheels/tires for a bit; not much snow in the forecast.)
Dropped it off for inspection and emissions testing.
What wheels are those?Accomplished 2 out of the 3 tasks yesterday.
1. Replaced the passenger running board with a less smashed part.
2. Reverted the Speed Engineering cold intake kit back to OEM. It dramatically lowered the exhaust drone between 1900-2300 rpms going back to the plastic intake with all its Heimholz dingleberries chopping up ugly frequencies. Now I'm curious if I can get away with the other muffler I just removed because it was too droney inside the cabin.
3. The fail was dealing with the exhaust that probably got a little banged up from the trail I was fighting the other day. The tailpipe was touching the bottom of the bumper, and started to melt it. No matter how many times I twisted the sections, it just kept settling back into a position that touched the bumper. The it got too dark to see.
I guess I'll have to come up with a creative way to bend the tailpipe section, or knock off the tip, cut the tailpipe by an inch or two, and reassemble everything.
(My new lug nuts also arrived last night, but I might wait to swap on the winter wheels/tires for a bit; not much snow in the forecast.)
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Black Rhino Peak (officially discontinued) that came on the car when I bought it. Black Rhino doesn't make them, but you can still find them online: https://tireswheelsdirect.com/product/peak-2/
They allowed 33" BFG KO2s to fit with no lift/level, and no rubbing. You'd need hub-centric spacers due to the huge 120mm wheel bore. The idiot who had the car before me just used the hub studs to support the weight of the vehicle, so I bought some spacers & had them machined to fit (too thick) as soon as I realized what was happening.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
I've also been playing around with the kid's super-basic 3D printer, trying to iterate some replacement center caps for those aftermarket wheels. Black Rhino doesn't sell them any more (I asked) and other companies want $30+ per cap, which is dumb.
My printer only prints in weak PLA, so there is zero flexibility of the part. Even if it fits securely it'll crack at the seams. Once I figure out the correct clip dimensions my buddy said he'd print them on his huge professional 3D printer in whatever the strong filament material is, in a much finer (therefore stronger?) print head resolution.
