What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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from outside appearance's it looks like QA1 is no longer making them, there is 3 available on Amazon
Summit has 3 in stock for $126

The funny thing, they also have the Yukon Gear nodular cover for $225 while Amazon has it for $109

Does this QA1 cause interference with anything else, like spare tire, etc? And what do you do with the parking brake cable that runs along and clipped to the OE one, just zip tie it to it?
 
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Doubeleive

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Summit has 3 in stock for $126

The funny thing, they also have the Yukon Gear nodular cover for $225 while Amazon has it for $109

Does this QA1 cause interference with anything else, like spare tire, etc?
no, it just has a very slight curve right over where the cover sit's, it's a pretty tight fit with the girdle.
mine is kind of dirty at the moment, whenever I change the fluid I need to put some plumbers tape on the bearing caps they sweat a little.
qa.jpg

qa1.jpg
 
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no, it just has a very slight curve right over where the cover sit's, it's a pretty tight fit with the girdle.
mine is kind of dirty at the moment, whenever I change the fluid I need to put some plumbers tape on the bearing caps they sweat a little.
View attachment 378065
View attachment 378066
Is that on your truck or Yukon?

I wouldn't think a cap support cover would be needed with the AWD, as not all the power goes to it unless putting down some mad powerz, lol

Kinda the same reason the 9.5" 14 bolt is only in the RWD versions if the Denali and Escalade
 

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Is that on your truck or Yukon?

I wouldn't think a cap support cover would be needed with the AWD, as not all the power goes to it unless putting down some mad powerz, lol

Kinda the same reason the 9.5" 14 bolt is only in the RWD versions if the Denali and Escalade
YUKON, I have broken enough rear ends I need any help I can get lol
I am surprised this one has not broken yet even though it was replaced under warranty right after I bought it 5 years ago, so it has about 65k on the g80, when it does break I will go with the tru trac I never broke one of those I did wear a set of bearings out though.
 
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Went ahead and ordered a QA1 bar from Summit for $126.

I got a promotional email to save 10% on purchases made on my Summit card so I figured for $114 I could sell it or return it if I don't need it.

I also had some ARP exhaust manifold bolts and gear oil in my cart and I was waiting to get over $99 so I can get free shipping, lol.
 

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Is that on your truck or Yukon?

I wouldn't think a cap support cover would be needed with the AWD, as not all the power goes to it unless putting down some mad powerz, lol

Kinda the same reason the 9.5" 14 bolt is only in the RWD versions if the Denali and Escalade
Well I AM supercharged so there’s that. :cool:
 

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Well I'm now only getting a misfire code 302 on #2 which of course didn't get the code until almost dark. The problem plug was number 7 snapped a shaft I tighten all up and no error on that side.
Probably the wire. They like to pull the connector apart inside the boot when you pull them off, especially if they’ve been on a long time.
 
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Took it to have state emissions inspection and alignment done. I don't need a state safety inspection yet because the mileage is under 150k, but I guess they did a suspension inspection before doing the alignment and sent me a txt with this info....

Screenshot_20220816-121914_Chrome.jpg

It has 137k on it and all the above parts are OE. Ive done lower ball joints on my 2011 so I know whats involved. Uppers are just a swap with new arms. What's involved in the inner tie rod replacement? I've done them on other vehicles, does the yukon have pretty much the same setup or is there something special?
 

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Took it to have state emissions inspection and alignment done. I don't need a state safety inspection yet because the mileage is under 150k, but I guess they did a suspension inspection before doing the alignment and sent me a txt with this info....

View attachment 378132

It has 137k on it and all the above parts are OE. Ive done lower ball joints on my 2011 so I know whats involved. Uppers are just a swap with new arms. What's involved in the inner tie rod replacement? I've done them on other vehicles, does the yukon have pretty much the same setup or is there something special?
Nothing different other than it is rack n pinion, and unless you get it pretty dang close you might get some death wobble on the way for alignment.
 
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Just talked to the shop. The emissions inspection passed and is ready (even with my BT Dieselworks AutoSync plugged into a OBD splitter cable.

They didn't do the alignment because of the bad ball joints and tie rod when doing the before alignment inspection. They quoted me $2100 for all of it including alignment (2 upper arms, 2 lower ball joints, 1 inner tie rod) and needing all day to do it.
 

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