What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Yesterday had the always fun experience of going shopping with the wife and kid :rolleyes:

One of the stores I decided not to go in and just wait out in the car for about 20 minutes. While sitting idle I watched the intake temp, coolant temp, and when the cooling fan kicked on, etc.

It was 86 degrees outside. AC on and set to 72.

While driving on the highway, the IAT was 89 and coolant temp was 197. Trans temp was 161.

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After sitting idling for a while, the IAT got up to 136 and I could hear either the 2nd cooling fan kick on (or they switched to high) at 203 and it shut off/went back to low at 201

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I have a Diablosport Intune i3 using the canned tune and have the DOD/AFM turned off along with the speed limiters. I'll have to check when I get a chance and see what the fan on/off temps are set to.

The hottest I've ever seen the coolant temp get was 207 and the trans temp 190. Not towing, but on vacation with 4 people, luggage, cooler, whatever crap the others had to keep them occupied during the trip, and going up hills in the Smokey Mountains.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Got tired of the dang plastic center caps cracking and bowties fogging up.
Got the PPV center caps, sprayed them with Steel-It, grabbed some doorman lugnuts, got hardware free99 from the day job leftovers.
Tried black lugs and caps, didnt really like it, chrome lugs black caps, still not really, then silver caps chrome lugs...and i thinks its just the smaller smoother look i actually dont care for with my off-road aesthetic.
That said, black wheels and caps would hide better.
 

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Just Fishing

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Cool! That looks like the LS6 valley cover (Gen3), but without the knock sensor tubes and with caps for the AFM towers for a Gen4. I wonder how effective it is compared to the DS valve cover baffle. Please tell me you're gonna try it out!

The standard go-to is the "LS3" valley cover (#12598832). It's $50-$60. I wonder if that Chevrolet Performance one is $79 better.

Yeah, I'm thinking I'll do it, but maybe not right away since the intake will need to come off.
Not that it's difficult to do or anything, and I'm getting pretty good at it too. :jester:
I have a feeling the coolant crossover will need to be modified...
 

Just Fishing

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Yeah, I'm thinking I'll do it, but maybe not right away since the intake will need to come off.
Not that it's difficult to do or anything, and I'm getting pretty good at it too. :jester:
I have a feeling the coolant crossover will need to be modified...

On that note, I'm sort of thinking maybe...
just maybe I'll play with the idea of the crankcase air inlets being on both sides of the valve covers.

Maybe it will prevent gasses from getting trapped in the high point.

:hmmm2:


I already have both valve covers plumbed for a catch can, so it would be really easy to use a Y of some type.
I also confirmed I don't have any oil coming from the passenger side.
So I'm playing with the idea of taking my dual catch cans and setting them up to be inline/series with each other.
Just to see if I catch any extra oil before I make any changes.
I'm curious more than anything. :jester:
 

Geotrash

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Pulled the camper to Asheville, NC for a long weekend. What a town! The 2012 did great pulling over the mountain passes on I-40 east of Asheville. It was 98° outside at the bottom of the hills, and I saw 230° on both coolant and transmission temps but that was as high as it got and we passed maybe half a dozen vehicles, some pulling campers, pulled over on the side of the road with their hoods up.

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13UpInSmoke

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Swapped out the dumb struts I had to get when I lowered the truck last year as the original Z55 struts broke apart on disassembly back to new Arnott Z55 struts. Wow what a difference in ride quality?! I didn't put the McGaughy drop spacers on though as I wanted to try & mount to the bottom of the control arm instead. Definitely took it too low & the front tires were bound up into the top of the inner fender so remounted them back on top of the arms instead. Lost about an 1.5" of drop but will leave for the time being. And got her cleaned up a little?! You can see how low the fronts sitting before I had to remount the new struts
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Just Fishing

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Pulled the camper to Asheville, NC for a long weekend. What a town! The 2012 did great pulling over the mountain passes on I-40 east of Asheville. It was 98° outside at the bottom of the hills, and I saw 230° on both coolant and transmission temps but that was as high as it got and we passed maybe half a dozen vehicles, some pulling campers, pulled over on the side of the road with their hoods up.

View attachment 373237

How much does something like that weigh?

That would be a nice size for my use...
:hmmm2:
 

Geotrash

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Got home safely yesterday evening and parked the camper in front of the house. Unhooked the hitch ball and went to shift into drive to pull away. Got as far as reverse and the shifter linkage on the transmission slipped off. Bushing failed. Terrible design, as many of you know. I'm barrel-chested so getting under there was a little uncomfortable, but I was able to get it shifted into park. I had a kit from bushingfix.com on hand because I knew it would eventually happen, but it's a POS so I ended up buying a Dorman clone of the original design. I think. Hard to tell which one is the correct one. Anyway, the original lasted 132K so I'll roll with it for now.

This is the one I got from Autozone's "help" section yesterday. Rock Auto says it's the right one, so we'll see.


Update: the bushing went on easy peasy. I let it sit in some hot water first to soften it and then installed it into the eye of the cable end first. I used a small screwdriver to make sure the whole lip of the bushing was through the eye and sitting properly in the groove. Then I used a pair of Channel-Locks to press the eye with the bushing onto the shaft of the shift lever on the transmission. Ran the shifter through its range of motion a few times and it seems solid.
 
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Just Fishing

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About 7000 with full water tank, storage compartments and cupboards, according to my cat scale ticket. But usually we don’t roll with a full tank so 6500 or so. We love it.

I assume you have the 6.2?
How does it do going up canyon roads?

We have some pretty steep ones around here, most of the lake type places go up to like a 6%, and that's with a 65mph speed limit.
My old S10 with it's 4.3l could barely do 55mph without anything being towed behind it. :jester:
Add the "big" boat and that's closer to 45-50mph and keeping the rpm right around 4-5k. lol


The Tahoe with the new engine can pretty much do it at 65mph hardly struggling w/o anything in tow.
I haven't towed anything up that canyon yet in the Tahoe, with it making its own anti-seize shortly after I bought it and all. :violin2:


I can't wait to see how it does with the boat, but fully loaded w/trailer that thing should only be right around 2,000-2600lbs.
Knowing I have roughly 600-700lbs of aluminum hull + plywood, fuel, equipment, glass, and a 400lb engine.


:hmmm2:


Now if i could get the wife to use a bucket/freshly dug hole to do her business in.
Then I'll get into overlanding more... :smh: ;)
 

Geotrash

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I assume you have the 6.2?
How does it do going up canyon roads?
Yes, I do. With a Stage 2 truck cam from Cam Motion and a BB tune. It does really well on the steeps pulling the camper. It'll hold 55-60 in 3rd on a 7% grade. I could go faster but don't care to push it any harder. Holding 65 in 4th on a 6% grade should be no problem.
 

Just Fishing

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I watch a lot of youtube, especially Richard at Precision Transmission. Check out this new short video, I never knew about how the top plate on the rear planet will hide metal, and that there is a better design off this plate to help cool the pinions too


Yeah, I saw those when I did my 6l80
when a transmission gets really nasty, trash gets trapped behind that plate.
Sonnax advertises it as just a like oem replacement, but you have to destroy it to get it off.
It sure is pretty all reinstalled on the back of the planet.

he also needs to stop aligning that hole in the back of the case with the hole in the bushing.
Lube pressure feed comes from inside of the output shaft.
OEM that hole is offset away from that hole/pass through in the case.
My research showed that Lube should bleed out the sides of the bushing, then the pass through is so the seal/shaft can be lubricated and then pass back through into the case.

Him lining that thing up allows pressurized oil to escape from the middle of the bearing surface.

(There are a few youtube videos out there covering the rear case bushing in the 6l80/90)

He has a bushing install video that really made me scratch my head on that subject.
Me detailing the exact position of each bushing, including where the dimples and spirals sit.
I coped the original position exactly on each bushing. :cool:

That said, I'm just a guy that has done a total of "1" of these.
but i also researched the fk out of it.
 

Just Fishing

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And i got an alignment today, post front and rear shocks, upper control arms, and lower ball joints.
2in leveler installed as part of the task.

The tahoe looks so much better now, and i can now change my oil w/o breaking out the jack and jack stands. :cool:
 

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I assume you have the 6.2?
How does it do going up canyon roads?

We have some pretty steep ones around here, most of the lake type places go up to like a 6%, and that's with a 65mph speed limit.
My old S10 with it's 4.3l could barely do 55mph without anything being towed behind it. :jester:
Add the "big" boat and that's closer to 45-50mph and keeping the rpm right around 4-5k. lol


The Tahoe with the new engine can pretty much do it at 65mph hardly struggling w/o anything in tow.
I haven't towed anything up that canyon yet in the Tahoe, with it making its own anti-seize shortly after I bought it and all. :violin2:


I can't wait to see how it does with the boat, but fully loaded w/trailer that thing should only be right around 2,000-2600lbs.
Knowing I have roughly 600-700lbs of aluminum hull + plywood, fuel, equipment, glass, and a 400lb engine.


:hmmm2:


Now if i could get the wife to use a bucket/freshly dug hole to do her business in.
Then I'll get into overlanding more... :smh: ;)
the 6.2 6l80 will do 90+ up a grade like that not towing anything other than fat butts, she will get warmed up if running that for a extended period
 

Sparksalot

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And i got an alignment today, post front and rear shocks, upper control arms, and lower ball joints.
2in leveler installed as part of the task.

The tahoe looks so much better now, and i can now change my oil w/o breaking out the jack and jack stands. :cool:
I feel your pain on the jacking up. Even with the air dam removed on thecopcar, I can’t really get underneath. Thethirdtwin is so much nicer in that respect.
 

Sparksalot

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I assume you have the 6.2?
How does it do going up canyon roads?

We have some pretty steep ones around here, most of the lake type places go up to like a 6%, and that's with a 65mph speed limit.
My old S10 with it's 4.3l could barely do 55mph without anything being towed behind it. :jester:
Add the "big" boat and that's closer to 45-50mph and keeping the rpm right around 4-5k. lol


The Tahoe with the new engine can pretty much do it at 65mph hardly struggling w/o anything in tow.
I haven't towed anything up that canyon yet in the Tahoe, with it making its own anti-seize shortly after I bought it and all. :violin2:


I can't wait to see how it does with the boat, but fully loaded w/trailer that thing should only be right around 2,000-2600lbs.
Knowing I have roughly 600-700lbs of aluminum hull + plywood, fuel, equipment, glass, and a 400lb engine.


:hmmm2:


Now if i could get the wife to use a bucket/freshly dug hole to do her business in.
Then I'll get into overlanding more... :smh: ;)
I’ve been thinking about this one for that possibility.


 

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