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Interesting….. I’d be interested as long as the shade is not much different than non-tinted.Just had 3m crystalline 70% installed on my windshield
My return air isn’t working so I figured this would be the easiest way to help cool the cabin while driving
I’ve already noticed a difference
I’m in central texas
It’s got a light blue haze to itInteresting….. I’d be interested as long as the shade is not much different than non-tinted.
I use a sunshade that’s designed for keeping off snow. Laid on the outside, keeping the glass cool. ( Works good to lower interior heat by 20 degrees in this Florida sunshine.It’s got a light blue haze to it View attachment 487977
Discovered something while changing mirror glass...
View attachment 488103
I haven't noticed any wasps, so I think it's old.
Got 2 mirrors for $25 from ebay, so far so good. No more brown mirror!
I could not remove either old mirror without cracking them though..
Also notice my driver side mirror's range of motion is lower down than the passenger side.
(I have mirror adjusted pretty much to uppermost limit on driver side)
I like your cluster.Flipped 200K today View attachment 488204
Yesterday I drained and refilled my power steering fluid reservoir, and today I went to take my truck to lunch and found coolant on my garage floor. Looks like my original radiator finally developed a leak after 21 years and 299,000 miles. Can't say I didn't get my money's worth.
More frustratingly, I've been battling some inconsistent A/C compressor cycling the last 2-3 weeks. It started after my battery died and was replaced. Low and high side pressures are within range, relay is good, blend door actuator has been replaced, the low pressure cutoff switch has been replaced, but for some reason the A/C compressor will short cycle, not cycle at all, or cycle normally. It's been pretty frustrating. I'm at the point where I'm about to just take it to a shop with a Tech 2 scanner and hope they can diagnose the issue.
Oh...you didn't have to remove your dash to pull that harness that goes under the steering wheel?! Pillars/HVAC cover only have to be removed on the passenger side?Removed front headliner. Finally no more foam bits sprinkling on my dashboard!
Watched a good series of videos starting with this one..
Why did GM use torx screws for the sun visor, much less two different sizes? To screw with us!
My torx sockets wouldn't fit the recesses.
Luckily an allen wrench fit the smaller hinge screws, and a mini flat blade screwdriver just fit the larger clip screw.
View attachment 488270
My 2005 did not have the retainer clips behind the roof vents.
You can rotate the housing and the vents come right out, instead of pulling them out like the video.. unless it's tight and you're unable to rotate them.
Found a use for the ring part of my plastic prybar..
View attachment 488271
Wiring plugs took a lot of squeezing to get out past the A-pillar.
View attachment 488272
With the headliner wiring removed, the rear blower is on full blast.
Still need to remove the rear headliner and sunroof shade..
I might try to remove the old material myself..
View attachment 488273
Then to find a decent shop to reline it.. All the video's I've watched, the finished product is not as nice as OEM..
View attachment 488274
Nice! Thanks for the tips.Nope, I did remove the dash screws on the side and a few on the top edge, so I could flex the dash cover..
-BUT- it was the frame underneath the dash the was really blocking it.
I pulled the door weatherstrip back in one spot to give a little more clearance.
Cluster removed and pulled the headlight module bracket off to reach in there better.. (to unplug that connector)
Not sure how it squeezed through, takes a little doing. Not terrible..
(I already had my knee bolster and dash bezel out, but it took ~2 hours I think.. )
A/B/C pillars need removed, they pull out easily, much easier than the later models. Grab handles.
D pillar on passenger side so you can remove the HVAC trim and unplug those wires.
(my speaker separated from the trim, will need to epoxy back together)
All the videos recommend glue that comes out of a spray gun. I'm not setup for that, plus I'm afraid I'll make a mess of it..
Hopefully a shop can do it well for reasonable.. If it has creases or looks sloppy, I won't be happy.
Part of me thinks about leaving it out and installing an overhead mesh rack for more storage..
All the headliners at the junkyard are sagging too.. I guess it's a Chevy thing?
I've done a few headliners, I've also reglued some that were hanging in a few small spots--I've used 3M adhesive spray in a spray can. I've always gotten great results using it.Nope, I did remove the dash screws on the side and a few on the top edge, so I could flex the dash cover..
-BUT- it was the frame underneath the dash the was really blocking it.
I pulled the door weatherstrip back in one spot to give a little more clearance.
Cluster removed and pulled the headlight module bracket off to reach in there better.. (to unplug that connector)
Not sure how it squeezed through, takes a little doing. Not terrible..
(I already had my knee bolster and dash bezel out, but it took ~2 hours I think.. )
A/B/C pillars need removed, they pull out easily, much easier than the later models. Grab handles.
D pillar on passenger side so you can remove the HVAC trim and unplug those wires.
(my speaker separated from the trim, will need to epoxy back together)
All the videos recommend glue that comes out of a spray gun. I'm not setup for that, plus I'm afraid I'll make a mess of it..
Hopefully a shop can do it well for reasonable.. If it has creases or looks sloppy, I won't be happy.
Part of me thinks about leaving it out and installing an overhead mesh rack for more storage..
All the headliners at the junkyard are sagging too.. I guess it's a Chevy thing?
Maybe it depends if the guy spraying knows what he's doing--or not. I've seen the pros using the spray gun with excellent results--but again, they were pros. Using the can is much easier and predictable for the DIY guy. Just don't go heavy, spraying the board AND the underside if the headliner, let it tack up 1st before applying both together. Make sure it's perfectly flat and smooth--there's no do overs.Right, I don't know why so many seem to recommend against the spray cans..
In the videos, the cans seem to spray more evenly than the videos where they're using spray guns....