What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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latvius

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Getting my rear glass replaced, the hinge has been broke since I owned it and it's time to get it fixed.
 

Shadowz Edge

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I pulled off the driver's door panel to get at the electrical I knew I had to fix but I didn't think the broken wire was going to be that close to the connector and trying to figure out how to attach it back again
 

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I pulled off the driver's door panel to get at the electrical I knew I had to fix but I didn't think the broken wire was going to be that close to the connector and trying to figure out how to attach it back again

Probably going to have to disassemble the connector shell, de-pin that broken wire, and solder a longer wire to the pin so you have something to work with.
 

Shadowz Edge

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Probably going to have to disassemble the connector shell, de-pin that broken wire, and solder a longer wire to the pin so you have something to work with.
That's what I'm thinking as well ... Just need to figure out how to dismantle the connector
 

ScottyBoy

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That's what I'm thinking as well ... Just need to figure out how to dismantle the connector
Worst case scenario, if you can't repair that wire. You could always go cut that plug off a donor truck in the junkyard, and just splice every wire in that harness. That's what I did when I had a bad wire in the plug for my power windows.
 

ncalvo

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Worst case scenario, if you can't repair that wire. You could always go cut that plug off a donor truck in the junkyard, and just splice every wire in that harness. That's what I did when I had a bad wire in the plug for my power windows.
Hmm I might have to try this.
My driver side door lock button doesn't work and I haven't located where the issue is yet
 

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Hmm I might have to try this.
My driver side door lock button doesn't work and I haven't located where the issue is yet

When you do this, don't try to remove that driver's door module (DDM) without pulling the door panel. There is a screw holding it in place (if someone hasn't broken that part already) and it's accessible only from the back side of the panel. Pull the switch and disassemble it to clean all the switch contacts.

Also inspect the wiring between the door and the body; that's a high flex point and wires tend to break over time in that harness. It's the most used door, after all.
 

ScottyBoy

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When you do this, don't try to remove that driver's door module (DDM) without pulling the door panel. There is a screw holding it in place (if someone hasn't broken that part already) and it's accessible only from the back side of the panel. Pull the switch and disassemble it to clean all the switch contacts.

Also inspect the wiring between the door and the body; that's a high flex point and wires tend to break over time in that harness. It's the most used door, after all.
Correct. I've had to repair broken wires inside the rubber door jamb boot. Due to the flexing of the door opening and closing, I had two wires that broke. One was a door lock wire, and one was a speaker wire. But the complete wire wasn't broken, just the conductors. The insulation was still intact. I had to keep probing the wire along the harness to find the break in the conductors. Then I had the issue with my power windows, which I assumed was another broken wire. It was broken all right, but not in the boot. It was right at the plug that actually plugs into the dashboard. I just cut a plug off a donor truck and left about 6-7 inches of wire attached and I took on the meticulous chore of splicing every wire in my harness to that "new" plug. I had to solder and then heat shrink every wire in that harness. Then on two of the wires I had to redo them because I messed up and didn't slip the heat shrink tubing over the wire before I soldered it! But at least it's done, and no more issues with it ever since. That was almost 3 years ago.
 

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