What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Alex_M]

Went out wheeling with the wife, little, and old man today. The family took the Tahoe and the old man took his jeep. Wet conditions, had a really good time. Did end up popping a CV and my dad had to pull me up the last hill, but that CV has been making noise for 30k miles so it doesn't owe me anything. Was able to finish the trail and drive home 2wd, and pulled out the broken shaft leaving the stub installed in the hub so my wife can continue driving the Tahoe until I can get the rear end swapped in her Cherokee.

The Tahoe is back on 33s right now until I can go thru with the SAS (gathering parts). Looking forward to getting it back on 35s with the alloy wheels. The Jeep is on 31s and will be getting the 33s currently on the Tahoe soon as some wheels are found, and going back to factory style fender flares.

Hopefully I'll have some more pictures/videos of Tahoe action from my dad in the next day or two, but here's what I have now. What a blast.

One video of the Jeep

The hill where my CV gave up the ghost.

 

[Pilot]

Ok I finally got the QA1 panhard bar installed, and the TA Performance girdled diff cover. I swear, every time I work on the truck it seems like “easy” stuff ends up with one challenge after another. Lol. Anyway, the passenger side bracket for the new panhard was unbelievably tight. I tried ratchet straps (2), many iterations of prybar action, scraped all the gunk off the inside of the brackets to make sure there was nothing preventing the bushing from sliding in..you name it.. I tried it! finally, I pulled it back out, and ended up machining off about 1/16” from the bolt sleeves, because no matter what I did, they kept getting hung up on the brackets, and are just about a 16th longer than the loop ends. After doing that, I greased the bushings, and was able to get the driver side in with the expected amount of prybar action. Back to the passenger side.. I ended up finally using my floor jack to push up on that one, with a 2x4, to avoid buggering up the paint. That got it within about 1/8”… next, I got my biggest prybar back out and was pushing the truck rear up so much (30x or
So) that it triggered my dash camera to turn on. Ha! but it would only move a tiny bit.. I’m now within 1/16” or less and it was soooo close.. I found a pair of needle nose pliers that fit inside the sleeve and were just big enough I thought.. hey, it’s tool steel.. should be pretty solid.? Hammered on that a few times, to bring the sleeve up to the bracket hole, and then I could finally get the bolt in. I honestly believe this job would have taken me no time at all if I just had a lift! After I got everything back together, it was time to pull the passenger side plug, so I could drain the extra 75-90 in it, since I had added 3 quarts from the Amsoil squeeze packs, and the diff is supposed to be full after something like 2.2 quarts. What I read said the passenger side plug should be the reference point of the full diff. You pull that plug, and it should drain to the bottom of that port. So got her off the Jack stand nice and level, crawled back under there for hopefully the last time, pulled that plug.. and.. nothing came out. Wtf.. stuck my pinky in the hole, and still couldn’t touch the fluid level. So I’m confused as ****. I added 3 full quarts, and it still seems low. If this TA Performance cover adds a bit of capacity, I haven’t seen it mentioned in the instructions, and even if so, how much could it be? I’m planning to get more Amsoil tomorrow hopefully somewhere locally, so I can finally drive her again. Just floored that it could need that much in the diff. Apologies for the novel, I feel like this install was just about a 300 page book.

Looks awesome! What are the benefits of the aftermarket panhard bar? I’ve had a ton of problems with mine due to my lift and have been considering going aftermarket.

 

[Pilot]

Ok I finally got the QA1 panhard bar installed, and the TA Performance girdled diff cover. I swear, every time I work on the truck it seems like “easy” stuff ends up with one challenge after another. Lol. Anyway, the passenger side bracket for the new panhard was unbelievably tight. I tried ratchet straps (2), many iterations of prybar action, scraped all the gunk off the inside of the brackets to make sure there was nothing preventing the bushing from sliding in..you name it.. I tried it! finally, I pulled it back out, and ended up machining off about 1/16” from the bolt sleeves, because no matter what I did, they kept getting hung up on the brackets, and are just about a 16th longer than the loop ends. After doing that, I greased the bushings, and was able to get the driver side in with the expected amount of prybar action. Back to the passenger side.. I ended up finally using my floor jack to push up on that one, with a 2x4, to avoid buggering up the paint. That got it within about 1/8”… next, I got my biggest prybar back out and was pushing the truck rear up so much (30x or
So) that it triggered my dash camera to turn on. Ha! but it would only move a tiny bit.. I’m now within 1/16” or less and it was soooo close.. I found a pair of needle nose pliers that fit inside the sleeve and were just big enough I thought.. hey, it’s tool steel.. should be pretty solid.? Hammered on that a few times, to bring the sleeve up to the bracket hole, and then I could finally get the bolt in. I honestly believe this job would have taken me no time at all if I just had a lift! After I got everything back together, it was time to pull the passenger side plug, so I could drain the extra 75-90 in it, since I had added 3 quarts from the Amsoil squeeze packs, and the diff is supposed to be full after something like 2.2 quarts. What I read said the passenger side plug should be the reference point of the full diff. You pull that plug, and it should drain to the bottom of that port. So got her off the Jack stand nice and level, crawled back under there for hopefully the last time, pulled that plug.. and.. nothing came out. Wtf.. stuck my pinky in the hole, and still couldn’t touch the fluid level. So I’m confused as ****. I added 3 full quarts, and it still seems low. If this TA Performance cover adds a bit of capacity, I haven’t seen it mentioned in the instructions, and even if so, how much could it be? I’m planning to get more Amsoil tomorrow hopefully somewhere locally, so I can finally drive her again. Just floored that it could need that much in the diff. Apologies for the novel, I feel like this install was just about a 300 page book.

Also, do you have a build thread? I vaguely remember you talking about some engine mods and I’d love to catch up on what you ended up doing.

 

[Sam Harris]

Also, do you have a build thread? I vaguely remember you talking about some engine mods and I’d love to catch up on what you ended up doing.

I do not. I should probably do that. I’ve done few things to it..

 

[Sam Harris]

Looks awesome! What are the benefits of the aftermarket panhard bar? I’ve had a ton of problems with mine due to my lift and have been considering going aftermarket.

This panhard bar is the only one I’m aware of (thank you @Rocket Man), that will clear the diff cover with a girdle. The factory bar won’t clear it.

And by the way, I acquired 2 more quarts (just in case) of severe duty 75-90 Amsoil, and topped it off this evening. She took an estimated 3.6-3.7 quarts!! Mark, do you remember what your diff takes..? I’m shocked I had to add that much.!

ETA: Next order of business is to fix that damn driver side lean. Couldn’t really see it from the pic, but while she was up on the jackstands it was making me crazy seeing that sag..! Have to measure, and get a lift block for the coil on the driver side ASAP..!

 

[Sam Harris]

Looks awesome! What are the benefits of the aftermarket panhard bar? I’ve had a ton of problems with mine due to my lift and have been considering going aftermarket.

If you’re looking for one due to a lift, or lowered suspension, you’d probably want an adjustable panhard, so you can center the rear end where it needs to be. I know spohn makes an adjustable one for our rigs, but figured that’s typically for lowered rides.

 

[Rocket Man]

This panhard bar is the only one I’m aware of (thank you @Rocket Man), that will clear the diff cover with a girdle. The factory bar won’t clear it.

And by the way, I acquired 2 more quarts (just in case) of severe duty 75-90 Amsoil, and topped it off this evening. She took an estimated 3.6-3.7 quarts!! Mark, do you remember what your diff takes..? I’m shocked I had to add that much.!

ETA: Next order of business is to fix that damn driver side lean. Couldn’t really see it from the pic, but while she was up on the jackstands it was making me crazy seeing that sag..! Have to measure, and get a lift block for the coil on the driver side ASAP..!

I do not remember but it wasn’t much more than stock whatever that is.

 

[Rocket Man]

Put the hood back on the Tahoe. The new LEDs light up the engine bay like daytime! Still need to finish up the wiring but here's a test run. Also installed three TRX style amber LED lights from Etrailer in the hood.

View attachment 386646View attachment 386647

Be aware those strip lights will eventually fall off from shutting the hood if they aren’t mechanically fastened. I did everything possible to mine to stop it but i eventually removed them because of that. If I do it again it will be with some that are screwed on. I like that hood blanket but I bought a new OEM one a couple years ago.

 

[Walchit]

Be aware those strip lights will eventually fall off from shutting the hood if they aren’t mechanically fastened. I did everything possible to mine to stop it but i eventually removed them because of that. If I do it again it will be with some that are screwed on. I like that hood blanket but I bought a new OEM one a couple years ago.

I built a growlight with LED strips, and I could tell they weren't gonna last, so I put dabs of superglue under them while I stuck them down. It's held for a few years now.

 

[Rocket Man]

I built a growlight with LED strips, and I could tell they weren't gonna last, so I put dabs of superglue under them while I stuck them down. It's held for a few years now.

That would probably work but I wouldn’t use that on paint, even under the hood because you’d never be able to replace the lights when they fail without pulling the paint off. And even led lights might eventually fail. I’d rather have a few small screws instead. That’s my thoughts anyway and if I put strip lights under my hood again that’s what I’ll do.

 

[MassHoe04]

This panhard bar is the only one I’m aware of (thank you @Rocket Man), that will clear the diff cover with a girdle. The factory bar won’t clear it.

And by the way, I acquired 2 more quarts (just in case) of severe duty 75-90 Amsoil, and topped it off this evening. She took an estimated 3.6-3.7 quarts!! Mark, do you remember what your diff takes..? I’m shocked I had to add that much.!

ETA: Next order of business is to fix that damn driver side lean. Couldn’t really see it from the pic, but while she was up on the jackstands it was making me crazy seeing that sag..! Have to measure, and get a lift block for the coil on the driver side ASAP..!

Nice garage!

 

[MassHoe04]

That would probably work but I wouldn’t use that on paint, even under the hood because you’d never be able to replace the lights when they fail without pulling the paint off. And even led lights might eventually fail. I’d rather have a few small screws instead. That’s my thoughts anyway and if I put strip lights under my hood again that’s what I’ll do.

I had a 12" piece of pine board to cover the back side of our stove that stuck up above the counter to trim it out. I used GE silicone sealer for doors and windows. Twenty years on there holding wood to sheet metal. I had to pry it off with a pry bar. The silicone stayed put and took some of the wood with it! No getting that off!

Silicone would work, but probably going to make replacing the lights really hard if that time comes for you.

How about silicone or super glue to hold strong magnets to the lights and let the magnets hold onto the hood? You would want strong enough magnets to keep things secure hitting bumps, but that might be an option.

Or, you can just screw them in as previously suggested.

 

[Sam Harris]

Nice garage!

Thanks! It’s a mess though, I have a lot to get unpacked yet, and organized! I was reeeeally hoping to fit a lift in my new place, but only thing I could do there is one of the shorty types. Though, I still think that would be worth it.. someday I hope.

 

[Rocket Man]

I had a 12" piece of pine board to cover the back side of our stove that stuck up above the counter to trim it out. I used GE silicone sealer for doors and windows. Twenty years on there holding wood to sheet metal. I had to pry it off with a pry bar. The silicone stayed put and took some of the wood with it! No getting that off!

Silicone would work, but probably going to make replacing the lights really hard if that time comes for you.

How about silicone or super glue to hold strong magnets to the lights and let the magnets hold onto the hood? You would want strong enough magnets to keep things secure hitting bumps, but that might be an option.

Or, you can just screw them in as previously suggested.

That was one of the methods I used after the high bond tape failed. They started falling off even after I bedded the strips in silicone after cleaning everything with alcohol. I think it’s the force of the hood slamming down over and over. The ones on the bottoms of my doors stayed on with silicone, they’re still on. They’re hooked to the interior lights so when I open a door they’re like puddle lights on steroids.

 

[Alex_M]

The heat of the engine and repeated heat cycling over time is also a big contributor. Under the hood I doubt even super glue or an epoxy would even be a permanent solution. Mechanical fastener is the only way I'd go.

 

[S33k3r]

Oh believe me, the pry bar has been used.! It’s just a little at a time I guess. I’ll get it wrapped up soon. Missing driving Lucy, and now that I’ll have the girdle, I’ll feel a lot more comfortable doing some more eh.. spirited driving.

Lucy moved the football again?

 

[S33k3r]

Hood makeover 99% complete. Just have to put it back on the Tahoe and connect the wires to the switches.

THAT looks good! Please share images of when all the lights are on and it is installed.

 

[S33k3r]

Went out wheeling with the wife, little, and old man today. The family took the Tahoe and the old man took his jeep. Wet conditions, had a really good time. Did end up popping a CV and my dad had to pull me up the last hill, but that CV has been making noise for 30k miles so it doesn't owe me anything. Was able to finish the trail and drive home 2wd, and pulled out the broken shaft leaving the stub installed in the hub so my wife can continue driving the Tahoe until I can get the rear end swapped in her Cherokee.

The Tahoe is back on 33s right now until I can go thru with the SAS (gathering parts). Looking forward to getting it back on 35s with the alloy wheels. The Jeep is on 31s and will be getting the 33s currently on the Tahoe soon as some wheels are found, and going back to factory style fender flares.

Hopefully I'll have some more pictures/videos of Tahoe action from my dad in the next day or two, but here's what I have now. What a blast.

One video of the Jeep

View attachment 386715

View attachment 386716

View attachment 386717

The hill where my CV gave up the ghost.

View attachment 386718

View attachment 386719

View attachment 386720

What size lift are you running to clear 33s / 35s? I was told I needed a 4" lift on my truck; I want to do a 2" body lift, but the shop I consulted said he doesn't know anyone doing body lifts any more. The body lift, for me, is to clear an Allison.

 

[S33k3r]

Be aware those strip lights will eventually fall off from shutting the hood if they aren’t mechanically fastened. I did everything possible to mine to stop it but i eventually removed them because of that. If I do it again it will be with some that are screwed on. I like that hood blanket but I bought a new OEM one a couple years ago.

Where did you get the hood blanket?

 

[S33k3r]

Replaced the power door lock in my driver's side passenger door. The plastic of the module doing the open/close broke in 3 pieces, inside the door! I replaced the mirror on my daughter's Suburban; chromatically, it was coppery on the surface and hard to use. It also would only fold in or fold out -- no power adjustment... Turns out it's the dam master switch.

My mechanic discovered rodent evidence in my wife's suburban. And we are fairly sure we have a bad wire, somewhere -- he has tested every thing else. But he can't find it. I'm taking it to a wiring specialist the week of 12/19 -- please wish me luck.